Kitchen Vent sealing

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westr212

Active member
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Posts
29
Location
Rockford, IL
2014 Solaire Palomino
It has a 6" x 12" kitchen vent and the damper broke and fell out. The only way I can see repairing is to replace the whole vent. I want to get input on what materials to use to seal the vent so it doesn't leak. Any advice on removing the original vent would be helpful too. Thanks, Paul

 

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The picture is of the door. Just put it back on and use duct tape to hold it in place. To remove it, there should be a series of screws around the edges. Just remove them and using a good putty knife, just pry it off. Clean the old butyl caulk, add a layer of new butyl on the new fixture, and just install it using the same screw holes. You'll need to order a new one which is the same brand.
 
Thanks Rene T ,

I will try top repost the picture of the vent.
I have a new vent on order. You mention Butyl caulk, is this something I have to get at a roofing contractor or can I buy a quality caulk at the diy stores? It is sealed awesomely right now and I want to get a similar result so the repair will last. Thanks.
 

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Butyl caulk is available at any RV store or on-line. Taking a good look at your second picture, It looks like it was sealed with silicone. If it is, you'll have to remove ALL of it before you lay down any sealer. Nothing will stick to it if you don't. Me personally, I would just use the butyl. And if you were a little concerned, you could lay a small bead of silicon around the edges.
 
Rene, I thought the seal was on there pretty good, I think you are right about it being silicone. I haven't removed the vent, since were in a major rain pattern and the part is not in yet from the dealer. I always want to see that they get the right one, staff there said they listed two vent options for my trailer and he visually was unsure which was right so he forwarded on my picture to the mnfr.
I will follow your advice about removing all the current seal before installing new seal and vent.
I seem to think that butyl is a form of rubber, anyway it must be great sealer. I had been making some roof repairs on an industrial building and the caulk I was getting from a commercial supply distributor was better than the best stuff I was buying at the diy store. The premium caulk from the diy store was excellent too. We had a paint line that had the oven installed above the roof for space purposes and the flashings were being flexed by machine movement.

 
Looking at your pictures again, it looks to me like the only problem you have is that one of the pivot pins broke off the door. If that's the case, order the correct assembly then just remove the new door and install it on the old housing. It should be just a matter of bending the door enough to install the pins in the corresponding holes in the housing.  20 second job without breaking the seal.
 
If you end up removing the whole vent my suggestion is to bed the frame in butyl tape, then use Sikaflex urethane sealsnt around the perimeter, That has been my process for a while now and it seems to work wonders.
I bought my supplies from www.rvroofandwall.com
 
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