Kwikee Steps Stuck is there a way to pull out manually?

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beautysmistress

Active member
Joined
Jun 15, 2015
Posts
34
Location
Anchorage, Alaska
Hello, I recently bought a 1987 minie winnie. among other problems the step doesn't work. Is there a manual way to open them?
  I took a look but didn't see anyway to release steps manually. they are currently folded under vehicle. I don't mind using them manually if possible till I have time to pull the unit off and try to fix it. Didn't find any help on Kwikee site. Its model no 2855 serial no 00829.
  Thanks in advance for any help.
Cheers
  Flash


Changed message icon to Topic Solved
 
I don't know of any way to operate them manually. You might try connecting 12 volts directly to the motor.
The steps can be  released moved in and out by removing a cotter key from the pin holding the activating arm that connects the the steps and then removing the pin. That willow you to move the steps to see if they are binding. If they are, lubing them might solve the problem. The control board has a current sensor that stops the motor if  they are too hard to move.



This is some info I have collected over the years from various threads for Kwikee steps. Maybe there is some info that will help.


Trouble shooting chart  HERE


There is a trouble shooting guide HERE


If you need sources for motors or parts check the following:


Motor 


PARTS 1


PARTS 2


PARTS 3




________________________________________________________________
"  1) AM Equipment 402 E. Hazel St Jefferson, OR 97352, (541) 327-1546 the motor is $29 plus $7 shipping.




2) Replacement step motor at AutoZone. It's a Siemens "Window Lift Motor", part number WL43003.


3) Autozone. The brand is "Siemens"
The ID tag lists the following numbers:
59720-20
121899
4) A 1986-1995 Ford Taurus left front window lift motor matched my motor. NAPA part # BK655-1395 $63.99 I ordered my motor from Auto-Zone Manufactured by Dorman part# 742-206. This has a lifetime Warranty and was $49.99.  "


Also these guys rebuild the older unencapsulated circuit boards: HERE


**********************************************
New info in 2012
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Aci-Auto-Window-Lift-Motor/1995-Ford-F150-1-2-ton-P-U-2WD/_/N-j1z7uZ8ijybZ1z10l3u?itemIdentifier=972601_315519_1264_1356%2C78656


Aci Auto/Window Lift Motor


For your 1995 Ford Truck F150 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 5.0L EFI 8cyl
Enlarge Image
Part Number: 83094
****************************


On disasembly of the motor I found the plastic plugs severly lopsided due to all the years of strain, new plugs cost $8.00 at Autozone or Amazon, other than that the Autozone Ford Mark VI would have worked $ $44, but I saved myself $38
*********
Just replaced my 25 series Kwikee step motor with a Dorman 742-277 window lift motor for a 1986 Ford Taurus driver side window lift motor. They said the Taurus had a high torque motor which is why the number ends with 277 meaning high torque. My steps zip in and out with this motor application. It was a special order item but only took one day for them to get it to my local AutoZone store. I also noticed AutoZone had rebuild kits for Dorman window lift gear boxes (plastic gears) in the Help section of the store.

 
Hi Clay.
  thank you for all the information.
  I will pull the cotter pin and see what happens and go from there.  As often as we will be RVing I may just try to figure out a way to keep it open and closed manually. But could be its an easy fix and just a loose wire.
  I'll let you know.
Cheers
    Flash
 
 
Check the fuse also I had that problem in our last MH it was under the hood.
 
I'm with you Flash, when my old motorhome's steps starting having problems, I wished that a conversion to manual steps was more common/available in motorhomes (they still have them on most trailers).  But I suppose it's like manual crank windows in cars... can't really find those much anymore, even if you wanted them.

Step motors tend to develop internal rust and start to bind up over time.  Like the old trick with starters on cars, you MIGHT be able to tap the step motor housing with a hammer (which will knock off some of the rust and/or make a temporary electrical connection) and the steps will pop back to life.  (Warning: do NOT be down on the ground under powered steps when you do the hammer tap... if they start moving again the moving steps could cause injury or pin you to the ground!)  But that hammer tap is usually a temporary problem.  Other electrical connections, grounds, door switches, relays, etc. can be checked underneath too.  They are all exposed to the elements, and corrosion can form quite easily that can affect step operation.
 
Yeah, motor corrosion is a problem on those steps.  They use automobile power window motors that are nominally weatherproof, but they're designed to live inside a car door, not underneath the rig where they're constantly assaulted by road splash and dirt.

The good news is you can take the motor down to your local auto parts store and get a replacement for much less than ordering it from Kwikee.
 
Hey thanks for all the tips.  This RV is worse than my boat for nickle and diming me!
  Headed out for some salmon this weekend but next I'll be under there figuring it all out.  I probably just pull it off then laying on the ground trying to figure it out.
  Thanks again.. I will report findings
Flash
 
Just a quick update on the steps.  Did find a couple things wrong but RUST was the biggest problem and the fact someone had probably hit something with the steps and they were bound up pretty tight.  My nephew managed to push them pretty much back in line. he's a strong fellow and wedged in between wheel and stairs and pushed with his legs.. That straightened them.
  Then a lot of penetrating oil and a BIG hammer got things moving!  I do need to find a new push button switch that is located in the door jamb as that was corroded. 
  So tickled we got one thing fixed for no cost!!
Thanks again everyone for the help.. Now on to the water system and fridge.
 
Had this problem with my 2013 Bounder 35K. On that RV, there’s no way to get the steps down if the motor won’t lower them. But I found that the entire assembly could be removed by taking the nuts off of the four bolts that hold the step in place. First you need to disconnect the step’s power and switch connectors and its ground (green) wire. Then you cut the wire ties that hold the electrical wires in place. The four bolts that hold the step on come down from the top of a small frame, and the bolt heads can be accessed and held in place with a box-end wrench. It’s best to remove the two nuts that are closer to the outside wall of the RV first. These are harder to see, but with a flashlight you can see them. You’ll need a 9/16” socket attached to a fairly long (a foot or so) ratchet wrench. Some WD-40 sprayed on the nuts first will make the removal easier. After the two “hard to get to” nuts are removed, loosen the two remaining nuts first, until they can be turned by hand. Then, hold the step up with one hand while removing the remaining nuts with the other. Be ready for it to drop down when you remove the last nut - it’s fairly heavy. Once the step is removed from the RV, you can easily remove the cotter pin, then the round steel pin that attaches the gearbox arm to the step. Once that’s removed, the steps can be extended manually.
 
Just a quick update on the steps. Did find a couple things wrong but RUST was the biggest problem and the fact someone had probably hit something with the steps and they were bound up pretty tight. My nephew managed to push them pretty much back in line. he's a strong fellow and wedged in between wheel and stairs and pushed with his legs.. That straightened them.
Then a lot of penetrating oil and a BIG hammer got things moving! I do need to find a new push button switch that is located in the door jamb as that was corroded.
So tickled we got one thing fixed for no cost!!
Thanks again everyone for the help.. Now on to the water system and fridge.
Kwikee step replacement parts:

Kwikee Products Service Training Manual
 

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