Living in a 5th Wheel - Permanent Occupancy - HOME

[Millie]

I am a widow and this is my only home. Any clues as to making life easier in a 5th wheel? Have Alpenlite Cypress 34RK 5th-Wheel, United Edition with Inverter/Charger.

Replacing 2-6 volt batteries, ASAP, will not hold charge, charger must be hooked up at all times and still it loses power. Purchased deep cycle, but wrong batteries. Learned that batteries need to have threaded posts to connect negative and positive to get 12 volts, makes sense. Having difficulty finding replacements at a fair price? Near Aberdeen WA. Have heard new batteries might get my refrigerator going again as it requires 12 volt to work. Don't understand this as it's hooked permanently to 110 and the fridge is gas/electric, Dometic?  Also info on Alpenlite? Have no paperwork. Manufacturer has closed business.

 

[halfwright]

Millie,

Welcome to the forum!!

As to the area under the bed in the slide. In our trailer, the slide hydraulic ram and slide supports are in that area. I don't know if all are the same.

The fridge requires 12 volt at all times, running on propane or 120 volt. I think there is a sensor  that needs it.

Most manuals are available on line. Run a search on "Alpenlite  manual" or whatever appliance manual you are looking for. There are mostly in PDF format, so you can save them to you computer.

Are you near a golf course? If so, call and ask where they buy their batteries. 

Are you going to be traveling or set up permanently?  There are some things you can do to a permanent site, like siding to close off the underneath for more warmth, a roof to keep the rain off or a porch to make it more like home. You can block under the frame to make it more stable.       

We have been traveling for almost 5 years.  But, old age is catching up and we will be looking at a permanent site soon.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Since you are always hooked to shore power, you don't need great batteries, just working ones. Doesn't have to be 6v (GC2 golf cart batteries) either, but 12v battery(s) are wired slightly different than 6v. An inexpensive change, if you want to go that route. The lowest cost batteries would be 12v marine or "trolling motor" batteries from Walmart or similar outlet, around $80 each. They would probably last about three years, whereas the golf cart 6v's would probably last twice that, making them cheaper in the long run.  Sam's Club and Costco have excellent prices on 6v GC2 batteries. Might even be worth the price of a membership.

Your refrigerator uses 12v power for its circuit board, even when on shore power. So does the water heater and several other things. Normally when plugged to shore power your onboard converter/charger makes all the 12v you need direct from shore power. If yours does not, that may be the reason you have battery problems as well.

 

[driftless shifter]

As far as threaded battery terminals you can buy battery clamps with the threaded terminals to install on your battery posts.

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery-terminal-end-and-adapter/lynx-battery-terminal-end-and-adapter/workhorse/w20/2004/8-cylinders-g-8-1l-mfi-ohv/257145_0_0/?checkfit=true

Bill

 

[Cooper AK]

Hi Millie,
I had a similar problem a few years back when I moved into my Springdale. My batteries would last about 6 hours or so before they were dead. I had my trailer brake set and it was drawing a lot of juice and killing the battery. Took me a week to figure it out... is your trailer brake set?

 

[Millie]

    My batteries are just very old, same ones as with previous owner. Got Alpenlite in 9/2015. Have had batteries on standard charger, as it seems inverter was not keeping them charged, so I've assumed that the batteries have gotten so old and without proper maintenance just will not retain a charge any longer. Purchased 2-6 volt golf cart batteries today and my power is better than ever, no fading or flickering any longer. Haven't checked out my fridge yet, but am going to check it out in about 10 minutes.
    As to the water heater; was using propane and it gave out on me in 12/2015. Since I had someone work on it/ switching from propane to electric. Finally got it going. Any other advice is welcome.

 

[Millie]

    Living room slider has leakage problem; have been advised that unlike my former 25 footer which I snow coated, my 5th wheel needs all seams, vents, and skylight sealed. Skylight and bedroom vent have been resealed, but skylight is leaking slightly again. Told its because I used silicone sealer and silicone won't stick to latex? What should I have done? material to use? But this won't fix the slider leak. Am very unfamiliar with sliders. Am thinking of using something inexpensive like corrugated fiberglass to cover slider roof?

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

You should use an RV lap sealant on the roof seams and openings, something like Dicor self-leveling (non-sag.

http://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Lap-Sealant-10-3/dp/B000BRF7QE/ref=sr_1_2

For vertical surfaces, use the non-sag version of Dicor, because the self-leveling type will literally run down the sides.
http://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Lap-Sealant-10-3/dp/B000BRF7QE/ref=sr_1_2

Your problem now is to get the silicone off, cause nothing will stick to it either. Scrape off as much as you can and then try a rag wet with mineral spirits (available at any hardware, paint, or lumber store) to remove the rest. Silicone leaves an oily residue that will prevent other sealants from adhering, so wipe well!  Try not to slop the mineral spirits elsewhere on the roof, cause it can loosen adhesives used elsewhere. The amount on a rag won't hurt, but a spill might.

 

[donn]

You really need to find an honest friend who can help you sort out your issues and get this trailer dry and working correctly.  Maybe post your location and a forum member could get you fixed up.

 

[kdbgoat]

Nevermind, wrong thread

 

[NickB]

Your problem now is to get the silicone off, cause nothing will stick to it either. Scrape off as much as you can and then try a rag wet with mineral spirits (available at any hardware, paint, or lumber store) to remove the rest. Silicone leaves an oily residue that will prevent other sealants from adhering, so wipe well!  Try not to slop the mineral spirits elsewhere on the roof, cause it can loosen adhesives used elsewhere. The amount on a rag won't hurt, but a spill might.

Do like Gary said, but also spread the Dicor sealant past the area where the silicone was. You can use a cheap paint brush or your finger (gloved, of course). You will never get a good bond where the silicone was, so overlap the entire area, making sure that the edges of the new sealant are landing on fresh (never been touched by silicone) rubber. Also be careful not to just wipe the silicone/min spirits onto the clean rubber because it will contaminate it.

 

[sadixon49]

I use to work in at a pharmaceutical company, everything was sealed with silicone. We always used denatured alcohol to clean it. As far as I know, it's the only thing that cleans RTV silicone with any degree of success.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I would not  jump to the conclusion that the silicone is at fault either. It was a poor choice for the long term, but it may have sealed properly and the actual water leak is somewhere else. It is often not where the water appears inside and sometimes can run a long way inside/under the roof. Leaks can be really pesky to find, and you mentioned having more than one.

 

[Millie]

LOOKING FOR A VOLUNTEER TO LOCATE AND REPAIR LEAKS... Live near Aberdeen, WA.  I'm adequate for many tasks, but this is near impossible. I don't see myself climbing on a roof anytime soon; but guess I'd try if I had to, and just cannot afford a helper on widows' pension. Need to find someone who knows what there doing. I'm at a loss. Do not want to see my only home destroyed.       
Thank you, Donn, for the suggestion. And thanks to all of you.