Microswitch in Ecotemp l10 water heater?

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marknoo

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Sep 20, 2016
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Last weekend it was 116 degrees in Oregon. I turned on my hot water for a cool down shower and the system stopped working.
Can a microswitch flip because it got too hot, between the temperature outside (116 degrees) and being inside a trailer compartment, and then the gas coming on to heat the water, could it have stopped working or flipped that microswitch because of heat?
If so, why doesn't it work now. It is not 116 anymore.
Do microswitches have to be reset? I have the panel off the front and do not see anything that looks like a reset button.
I hear water going through the unit when I call for hot water, so I am pretty sure the water pressure is fine. It is on city water and there has never been a pressure problem before.
I tested my batteries, they are D cells and it read about 1.6 on the meter. I also put the batteries into the holder, pulled the wires from the top of the battery box, and tested them from the leads leaving the battery box and the top or bottom of the actual batter, it gave the 1.6 reading again for each one. so I think power is getting out of the box.

That makes me think it could be the microswitch but I am not much of a mechanic, so I could be totally wrong. and I am not sure if I need to pull the water lines and make sure water is going through at 40 psi or not. if I call for hot water from the faucet, if the lines were blocked wouldn't I see a reduced flow. Because the same amount of water comes out, its just now there are no flames to heat it.

Also, I don't know how much a service call is (if I cannot fix it myself) but I assume it would be atleast 100 dollars, then they would need to order a part (so more money), then another service call to put it in (and presumab ly another service call fee), So is it better to just buy a new water heater and put it in. All the lines and plumbing and all that is, of course, already there.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Oh, usually when it fires up you hear a clicking sound. There is no clicking now.
 
I assume this is the tankless propane outdoor model.

There are a few things it could be. With the unit ON, there needs to be a flow of water that engages the flow switch. From there, ignition should take place if there is propane available and electricity. There are some safety features built in to prevent fire, excessive heat or raw propane from venting. A service call may be your best bet however, if you can download the service manual and use a multimeter, you may be able to find the problem. You could also search for some videos and maybe even a member here might have experience with your specific unit.

I would be a little skeptical about a service call as I think a new heating unit can be purchased for about $300.
 
If water is flowing normally thru to the faucet I think you can assume the water side is fine.

I can't find anything in the Ecotemp manual that describes the function of the "microswitch", so hard to guess how it might be affected by ambient temperature. There is also a "temperature sensor" that appears to be some sort of safety (overheat?) device. See item g under "heaters starts then shuts off" in the Troubleshooting section of your Ecotemp owner manual.

Your manual also has a phone number for Ecotemp tech support and a link to a help section of their website. I think a call to Tech Support might get you some insight as to what can happen when the ambient temperature gets extreme. The number in the online manual is 866.356.1992
 
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. It is appreciated.

I sent a support ticket to Marey (they manufacture the EcoTemp L10).

I also found an EZ Tankless that is probably a better fit for what I do with it

It only costs $144 bucks and it is pretty much all plumbed in already. If they do not have a viable solution on Monday I will order the EZ Tankless 101.
(I will call EcoTemp too, to see if I can get a quicker response but they may have Monday off, I do so maybe other people do too)

Thanks again.
 

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