Mold removal

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MSHappyCampers

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Columbus, MS
I had a roof leak above the bathroom that took me a long time to find.  I removed the trim from around the vent fan and found that mold had formed above the ceiling.  My ceiling is vinyl with a 1/4" layer of foam rubber, and then wood above that.  The wood and the foam is covered with mold.  Has anyone had this problem, and if so, what did you do to get rid of it?  Thanks!

Joe
 
While not exactly that problem I had a water line break inside the wall in water heater closet (exterior access mechanical closet / storage room) in the sticks and bricks house a couple of years ago, leading to all sorts of mold and mildew growth.  I treated it using a commercial ozone generator, running it for 12 hours per day, 3 days in a row with a box fan running for air circulation (Ozone will tend to settle to the lowest point if not stirred up with a fan), which seems to have been effective at killing everything that was growing.  The unit I have is an older commercial unit, which is rated at 2.65 grams per hour of ozone, commercial units built in the last few years can output much higher amounts.  Note Ozone is an inhalation hazard, so should not be used in occupied spaces, it will also kill plants so don't leave anything you don't want dead around it, and ventilate the air for at least an hour, preferably two hours before entering confined spaces where an Ozone generator has been running.  Also note Ozone will degrade rubber and plastic, and using at too high of concentration can cause Ozone odor to persist for several days, so bigger is not always better.  For an RV size space you probably want between 2 - 4 grams per hours Ozone production rate, Ozone has a half life of about 20 minutes in air, so using too small of unit may result in never reaching kill level saturation in a larger space, even with extended run times.

p.s. this is the unit I have https://carwashworld.com/product/oasis-plus-ozone-generator-deodorizer/ though thankfully I did not pay anywhere near the new unit price, mine was an old stock product covered with dust at a substantial discount, mine is also blue not black.
 
Step one is to remove anything that can be readily accessed.  Example, there's little point in treating moldy insulation.  It's cheap and easily replaced.

Second is to scrub clean any area you can access with borax solution.  Leave the surfaces wet and let dry.  Overnight is a good timeframe.

Forced air dry.  Fans blowing copious air through the cavity.  I would let this run for a week.  Ozone is a bonus.

Being a belt and suspender kind of guy, I would then treat all areas I could access with a product called concrobium.  That stuff does a scorched earth job on mold and mildew and  continues to work after the application.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Never new ozone could be used, usually it is remove all damaged area , clean & replace, but  Ozone generator can be rented for many tool rental outfits if you decide to go that route
 
Mark_K5LXP said:
Step one is to remove anything that can be readily accessed.  Example, there's little point in treating moldy insulation.  It's cheap and easily replaced.

Second is to scrub clean any area you can access with borax solution.  Leave the surfaces wet and let dry.  Overnight is a good timeframe.

Forced air dry.  Fans blowing copious air through the cavity.  I would let this run for a week.  Ozone is a bonus.

Being a belt and suspender kind of guy, I would then treat all areas I could access with a product called concrobium.  That stuff does a scorched earth job on mold and mildew and  continues to work after the application.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

The 1/4" foam layer is permanently attached to the vinyl ceiling so no way to remove it.  Looks like the only thing I can do is hold down the vinyl ceiling from the wood and spray in there between the vinyl/foam and the wood.  I've been reading about the concrobium and it seems to have a lot of positive reviews.

Joe
 
An old remedy to eliminate mold odor that really works: 1 quart water, 4 oz vinegar, 1 oz bleach. Test for color fastness on fabrics or paint first. Apply and immediately dry with a towel.
 
Try using ingredients you might have in your house already. You can use a drain cleaner or bleach to kill the mold.
 
Try using ingredients you might have in your house already. You can use a drain cleaner or bleach to kill the mold.
Welcome to the forum. This post is over a year and a half olde so I assume the OP has cleaned it up. Also the last time they posted was over a year ago so we’ll never know.
 
If you read the label on your bleach bottle, you will probably see that it is only designated for non-porous surfaces. This means that chlorine bleach can only kill surface mold. Because mold can grow deep roots within porous surfaces, such as wood and drywall, bleach will not assist you in exterminating mold.

Mold posts are still informative if a person is searching for mold stories.
 
If you read the label on your bleach bottle, you will probably see that it is only designated for non-porous surfaces. This means that chlorine bleach can only kill surface mold. Because mold can grow deep roots within porous surfaces, such as wood and drywall, bleach will not assist you in exterminating mold.

Not really the case. The bleach will kill any mold it reaches. The advertised effectiveness on the label (usually 99.9%) is for non-porous surfaces, but it still works on porous materials. Just let it soak in, and it may take multiple applications. I've disinfected several old (antique) boards that way
 
Bleach is very effective but it once it evaporates that's it. Products like concrobium leave a salt behind that continues to work after the liquid evaporates. Probably stating the obvious but if you don't resolve what issue caused the mold in the first place, no treatment will be a cure.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Lots of people really believe mold is gone when it is not.


Once you apply bleach to mold on a porous surface, the chlorine content of the beach dries up almost immediately, leaving behind the water content to be absorbed into the wood or any other absorbent material. The water travels down to the root of the mold and helps it thrive.
 
LOL. You can use science to make it seem impossible to solve any problem. Mold is everywhere, and rarely is it harmful. I'm sure you can prove there is residual mold after any kind of treatment, but does it matter? Do what you think is best.
 
Actually you might be better off, safer for your health to hire a professional to do this work. Mold spores can migrate to anyplace if not treated properly. Certain molds are really nasty to your health.
 
I've had my own challenges with water-related issues, like when water damage wreaked havoc on half of my house. It was quite the ordeal!
 
Yes indeed! My previous older home was plumbed with 1970's polybutylene tubing, so by 2000 cracked water lines were a routine event. It took me some years and a lot of work to find and replace all the deteriorating water lines and deal with the aftermath of moldy and rotted subfloors and carpet pads.
 
I've had my own challenges with water-related issues, like when water damage wreaked havoc on half of my house. It was quite the ordeal!
When it comes to removing mold from ceilings, especially with unique materials like vinyl and foam rubber, it's crucial to tackle it thoroughly. While you could try DIY methods like cleaning with a mixture of water and vinegar or using mold-killing products, it's essential to ensure proper ventilation and safety precautions. If you're unsure or the mold seems extensive, reaching out to professionals like alldryus.com for advice might be wise. They have the expertise to handle mold removal safely and effectively.
 

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