need help to winterize

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bklyncat58

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Nov 22, 2015
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we have a prim time avenger ati 26bb . so far we drained the hot water heater I know the next step is to bypass the hot water heater. I looked at my manual and if I understand it it says to fill fresh water tank with antifreeze turn pump on and open all the faucets flush the toilet and then pour antifreeze in all the drains sinks shower . has anybody done it this way. I'm so nervous don't want to mess anything up. I'm in nj as its starting to get cold
 
Nothing wrong in winterizing this way. However, you will need to use 4-5 gallons of antifreeze in order to pump the water out of all of your pipes. If you use a kit that fits just anterior to your pump you can usually pump out your water lines with 2 gallons of antifreeze. One can usually find these kits at any RV store or sometimes they can be found at Walmart.
 
I would not want to use that method (RV antifreeze through the fresh water tank) if it can be avoided... it's much more expensive to buy all that pink antifreeze, and that stuff would be hard to get completely OUT of the fresh water tank in the Spring.  Even draining the tank often still leaves a layer of liquid at the bottom.  That would mix with all the other fresh water put into that tank throughout the season.  It's non-toxic and would be diluted, but still.

The two main ways to winterize are to fill the water lines with antifreeze (a couple ways as mentioned) or blow the lines out completely with compressed air.  The last few years I've chosen the compressed air method and had no problems.

There are dozens of past/recent threads on winterizing methods, if you click on the "Search" button (somewhat near the upper left corner of the page) and search the terms "winterize" or "winterizing".
 
Open your access panels and find your pump.  This will save you in the long run.
 
Ditto on the compressed air.  Saves you having to flush out all of the anti-freeze every spring and no expense.  A little water left in the tanks won't hurt a thing.  Small compressors will work fine.  You could get one with a 12V adapter to run from your battery or tow vehicle and use it to top up your tires on the road as well.  Mine cost about $60.  Still need to add anti-freeze to drains, though.  Draining the water heater is a really good idea if you can.  Run the pump while applying air to get the water out of the pump.  Running it dry for a few seconds won't hurt it.  At least that's the way I've been doing it for years with zero problems.  I live in a place where winters are VERY cold.
 
If you blow the lines, like I do, then make sure that if you have an inside water filter, that you empty the water that is in there. I always drain the water heater and open the pressure relief valve to ensure that it is empty.
 
Remember, if you do use the antifreeze method. You just open one tap at a time when pumping the antifreeze through the lines, not all of them open at the same time.


Bill
 
bklyncat58 said:
we have a prim time avenger ati 26bb . so far we drained the hot water heater I know the next step is to bypass the hot water heater. I looked at my manual and if I understand it it says to fill fresh water tank with antifreeze turn pump on and open all the faucets flush the toilet and then pour antifreeze in all the drains sinks shower . has anybody done it this way. I'm so nervous don't want to mess anything up. I'm in nj as its starting to get cold

"Fill fresh water tank with antifreeze"  Really?  I have a 100 gallon fresh water tank and would never consider doing that.

I know some people think that they can get all the antifreeze out of the water lines in the spring - but I believe that there would be
trace amounts going through the lines for a long time - an I would not want to take that chance.  Probably wouldn't cause any problems
anytime soon - but "smoking" doesn't kill people right away either - but everyone "Knows" it's bad for you - yet some people still do it.

I blew my lines out 3 times to make sure there was (as much as possible) nothing left in them.
The PO told me he never put antifreeze through the lines so I thought I should keep up that practice.
When I do add water again there should be nothing to flush out either - fill up and go.  ;D
I did put AF in the drains and toilet.  Next time I think I will just remove the traps (the ones I can get to)
and leave them off - then I wouldn't have to even add AF to those. 

Oh well - to each their own.......

It's been a week - I wonder if the OP will come back and let us know what they ended up doing?
 
Ditto on the blow you lines out camp.  Air can't freeze.  Get a Camco or other brand adapter that screws into your city water inlet.  The other end of it fits your compressor line.  Drain your hot water tank, (like someone else said, open the blow off valve to let air into it) hook up the compressor (I would not go over 30 PSI) open your faucets one at a time blowing the water out till there is nothing but air coming out.  Don't forget shower and outside shower.  Put  pink antifreeze in your drain P traps and I put some in the head to keep the gasket lubed.  Make sure your black and grey water tanks are pumped out and your fresh water tank is drained.  At least that is what I do.  Blowing the lines has always worked on my boat as well.
 
rockman said:
Ditto on the blow you lines out camp.  Air can't freeze.  Get a Camco or other brand adapter that screws into your city water inlet.  The other end of it fits your compressor line.  Drain your hot water tank, (like someone else said, open the blow off valve to let air into it) hook up the compressor (I would not go over 30 PSI) open your faucets one at a time blowing the water out till there is nothing but air coming out.  Don't forget shower and outside shower.  Put  pink antifreeze in your drain P traps and I put some in the head to keep the gasket lubed.  Make sure your black and grey water tanks are pumped out and your fresh water tank is drained.  At least that is what I do.  Blowing the lines has always worked on my boat as well.

Don't for get the washing machine if you have one.
Also don't forget the water pump which almost everyone has one.

The water regulator I have is set to 50 psi so I used 50psi on the air compressor line and didn't see (or hear) any problems and
feel it was safe and got more water out of the lines.  JMO.
 
My first year doing this on our TT...when I blow out the lines, do I pressurize the lines to 30 psi then open faucets?  Or do I keep constant air going through with faucets open?  I was afraid to actually pressurize. 
 
BeagleDad said:
My first year doing this on our TT...when I blow out the lines, do I pressurize the lines to 30 psi then open faucets?  Or do I keep constant air going through with faucets open?  I was afraid to actually pressurize.

30 PSI will work fine, You can even go a little higher. I would pressurize the system then go around and one by one open the faucets. Let the pressure build back up then go on to the next faucet. I would go around to all the faucets until there is no water at all coming out. Also run the water pump once or twice while doing this.
 
Rene T said:
30 PSI will work fine, You can even go a little higher. I would pressurize the system then go around and one by one open the faucets. Let the pressure build back up then go on to the next faucet. I would go around to all the faucets until there is no water at all coming out. Also run the water pump once or twice while doing this.

Exactly, and remember to do the toilet, outside shower or kitchen sink (if you have one), and lastly the low point drains, one at a time.  There will be one drain for the hot water lines, and one for cold water lines.  Then I usually run back through all the faucets again, just to be sure.  ;)

I set pressure to ~40psi with no problems.  My new 6-gallon compressor (120psi max) is far superior for the task than my smaller 3-gallon pancake compressor I used last year.  The newer/bigger one recharges the air pressure much faster and holds more to begin with, so the just went much faster.  But it can be done with a small compressor... you'll just spend more time waiting for the air pressure to build back up between faucets.
 

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