I just noticed my hot water heater (Atwood 6 Gallon DSI) would not light on propane. I have a Hott Rodd installed and I hardly ever use the propane mode anymore. A couple months ago (last time I checked) it worked fine. When I hit the switch, I get nothing. Not even the "Pilot Out" indicator. I went outside and pulled the blade connector to the board and get no voltage reading there. I removed the switch inside and have no 12 volt power to the switch. Where could I have lost 12V power? I have no other 12V problems. Over the last couple of years I have had problems with it not wanting to light on propane but the "Pilot Out" indicator would always come on. Figured the board was trying to go bad. This is a new problem. Not even getting power to the board. Puzzling. Not sure where to look next.
No 12V Power to Hot Water Heater.. Puzzled!
- Thread starter bigpemby
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
There is a fusible link, normally inline with either the thermostat or the ECO sensor. You get no power to the gas valve if it has burned out. It is not a big thing - looks like a section of the wire enclosed in a slightly larger sleeve. That would not interrupt power to the circuit board, though.
The heater switch may not power it directly - could be a relay in between. And surely there is a fuse near the source for that 12v line.
The heater switch may not power it directly - could be a relay in between. And surely there is a fuse near the source for that 12v line.
Mavarick
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2011
- Posts
- 2,027
Big, I have the 10 gal unit in my 03 so I checked the manual which shows 6 & 10 gal units. Don't know much about these units but the manual shows the switch being wired directly to a 12v battery source or filtered side of a converter, using min 18g wire. The blue wire from the switch (terminal 6) is for the non-ign light. From the remote switch your power flow is through the thermal cutoff and then to the thermostat.
I would first make sure the ground wire is good at the switch. If that was ok I would disconnect the wiring from the remote switch and hook it to a good 12v battery source and see if the unit works. The diagram looks as if your remote switch has 4 wires, terminal 2 is 12v pos and terminal 4 (green) is 12v neg.
I can PM you the manuals if it will help, they are too large to post so just let me know. As I said I don't know if this all relates to your unit but might help you troubleshoot.
I would first make sure the ground wire is good at the switch. If that was ok I would disconnect the wiring from the remote switch and hook it to a good 12v battery source and see if the unit works. The diagram looks as if your remote switch has 4 wires, terminal 2 is 12v pos and terminal 4 (green) is 12v neg.
I can PM you the manuals if it will help, they are too large to post so just let me know. As I said I don't know if this all relates to your unit but might help you troubleshoot.
JIGGS
Well-known member
I had a somewhat similar problem. Mine was the terminal on the thermal link was rusted and not making good contact. I got great help from Atwood. Went on there web site and sent an email describing my problem and the next day got some good info on what to check
