Norcold Model 1201LRIM

[Ten41seven]

After having some work done on my RV my refrigerator will not come on.  I have checked the 120 receptacle and it shows proper current.  Thetford said it is my 12 gold fuse that is tan that is blown.  However I cannot find this tan fuse they talk about.  I own a 2001 Itasca Horizon 36CD that I purchased with every option I could get at that time.  My rig has a circuit breaker box below the frige that has a breaker for the frige and I check it and have power to this.  Norcold says the fuse is behind the refrigerator unit.
Anyone know where this is located on this unit?
Hopefully some of you have already dealt with this and can help me.

 

[Alfa38User]

They are suggesting to you that you a blown 12V FUSE, The circuit breaker you found is for the 120V supply for the electric cooling option but the fridge still needs 12V for the control system.

I am not familiar with your particular model fridge but most have some fuses at the back in a small black box mounted vertically with a few wires going in underneath, and a small circuit board and fuses inside. The cover is secured with a small screw or two. Access to the back of the fridge is through the big removable plastic door with louvers (large vent slots) on the outside.

I don't know about "Tan"  or "gold" but that may mean the colour and amp value of those newer style auto fuses. My fridge fuses happen to to be the glass tube type, no colour to those kind. A multimeter would be very handy to test the fuses.

On Edit: JFNM's idea is the best place to start. If you have this box and the red light is on, you will need a magnet it reset it.

 

[JDOnTheGo]

Howdy Ten41seven,  Do you have the little black recall box with the red LED light on it?  If so, this link may be helpful if the box needs to be reset:
https://www.arprv.com/troubleshoot-norcold-recall.php

Given the comment about having some work done, I'd bet all the money in my pocket right now that this recall box has been tripped and needs to be reset.  It seems they are sensitive to voltage changes (like dead batteries, disconnecting the batteries).

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

There are two fuses on the Norcold's own circuit board, which is on the back side of the fridge and enclosed with a cover. You get at it from the outside access panel in the sidewall. One fuse is for the 120v heater element and the other is for 12v power to the circuit board.

Your coach also has a fuse on the 12v wire that feeds 12v power to the Norcold board. I would check that first rather than tear into the back of the fridge (it's a like spaghetti back there!). I have no idea where Winnebago put that fuse, but you can get wiring diagrams  for your specific coach from the Winnebago website.

 

[Ten41seven]

My sincere thanks to those of you who have supplied this old man with a starting point.  In the back of my frige I have a black box about 6" X 4" with several wires going into it some of these come from the 120 supply cord, most are what appear to be 1 volt.
I do have a small black box 1 1/2 " X 1 1/2" with a red light on it.  This is an add on for Norcold to prevent fires about four years ago.  The little red light is out at the moment but I will check all of this out.
Again Thanks to everyone.  I will let you know what I find.
Jim

 

[Ten41seven]

Picture of inside opening.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Yes, that is the controller "black box" behind the ice maker water valve. One 120v power cord goes through a fuse inside and then to the electric heat element on the boiler; it does not do anything else. Most 1201LRIM's have a separate 120v power cord for the ice maker, but the earliest models use one cord for both the heater and the ice maker.  The controller runs on 12v, which is provided from the coach fuse panel and passes through that little black "recall box" before entering the controller.  If the red light of the recall box is on, there will be no power  to the controller.  Inside the controller box, on the circuit board, is a fuse for 12v power.

If one of the 12v wires is only 1 volt, that's your problem.  Re-check those voltages.

 

[Ten41seven]

Picture of inside opening.