Norcold N611V

[pappi49]

Norcold N611V

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I have looked all over the web and have this posted on another forum but I am having no luck. Can someone help me out with information regarding freezing temps in the N611V NorCold fridge. The "V" being the key part of the fridge.

I can find all kinds of info on the N6xx but nothing on the N611V. I have sent a request to Norcold so hopefully they will have some kind of an answer but hoping someone here can help. I have replaced the thermistor per the mfg. instructions and still can not get the fridge into the normal range. I have one of the N611V models that has Auto Temp Control vs adjustable temp settings. I am completely lost and have no idea as to what to try or look for next.

As always all help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Lou Schneider]

Although there's no direct temperature control you can regulate the refrigerator temperature by changing the thermistor's location on the cooling fins. Try moving it up to make the refrigerator colder, down for warmer. Or move it a fin or two in either direction and see what happens.

Absorption refrigerators have to bring down the freezer temperature first, then any excess cooling migrates down to the cooling fins in the refrigerator section. This is where the thermistor regulates the temperature by turning the heat source on and off.

You can unplug the thermistor to force the cooling unit to stay on full time instead of cycling on and off. If this does not bring the refrigerator section down to an acceptable temperature there may be an air leak around the freezer's door seal that's causing it to hog too much of the available cooling - remember it has to cool down first before cooling flows to the refrigerator section. Or there may be an air leak around the refrigerator door that's letting cold air leak out.

You can test for leaks around your door seals by closing the door against a piece of paper like a dollar bill sandwiched between the door seal and the refrigerator body and verifying the seal creates drag against the paper when you try to pull it out. Check the seals at several locations around each door.

 

[Ray-IN]

Lou covered almost everything, I might suggest adding a small fan inside the bottom access door, pointed upward. This temporary measure should help determine if the fridge will actually get colder. If this helps, perhaps the fridge "chimney" is constructed wrong or is otherwise restricted that prevents natural convection from cooling the solution in the piping.
Your Norcold installation manual explains how the chimney must be constructed.

This shows how an absorption cooling unit functions.

 

[pappi49]

Although there's no direct temperature control you can regulate the refrigerator temperature by changing the thermistor's location on the cooling fins. Try moving it up to make the refrigerator colder, down for warmer. Or move it a fin or two in either direction and see what happens.

Absorption refrigerators have to bring down the freezer temperature first, then any excess cooling migrates down to the cooling fins in the refrigerator section. This is where the thermistor regulates the temperature by turning the heat source on and off.

You can unplug the thermistor to force the cooling unit to stay on full time instead of cycling on and off. If this does not bring the refrigerator section down to an acceptable temperature there may be an air leak around the freezer's door seal that's causing it to hog too much of the available cooling - remember it has to cool down first before cooling flows to the refrigerator section. Or there may be an air leak around the refrigerator door that's letting cold air leak out.

You can test for leaks around your door seals by closing the door against a piece of paper like a dollar bill sandwiched between the door seal and the refrigerator body and verifying the seal creates drag against the paper when you try to pull it out. Check the seals at several locations around each door.

I have adjusted the thermmistor as far to the right as it will go and there is no change. Also,the fridge is cycling as it should but the temp range is too high to not freeze. I am not sure of the exact temp. but I do know that is was running well below 30 degrees F. I believe that it would go as low as avout 22/23 degrees for a period of tiime and then stop/defrost to about 30 then start back up.

I also have a 12 volt fan running in the fridge but am not really sure if it helps or not.

I did find a Optical Display board that has been upgraded to allow the use of temp settings. I really dont want to just start throwinig parts at it so I may wait till I hear from both Norcold and the RV Fridge guys. Hopefully they can provide some insight into the problem.

Ray, I really dont want the fridge to get cooler. My problem is that it is getting too cold.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I have adjusted the thermmistor as far to the right as it will go and there is no change.

That would be the wrong direction if you want it warmer rather than colder.

The freezer should reach approximately 0-10 F and the fridge 35-39 F. Measure the temperature in the fridge by placing a thermometer in a bowl of water and not immediately adjacent to the cooling fins. The freezer is small enough it can be measured anywhere (air circulation is not a significant factor).

Excessive cooling indicates the cooling unit is not cycling, i.e. it remains on too long. This is more easily determined in gas mode because the presence of the flame indicates whether the cooling unit is running or not.

Here is the N611V Install & Op manual:

https://forestriverinc.com/brochures/0000/0000RefrigeratorNORCOLDN611VN811VManual.pdf

I believe the N611V is the same as the vanilla N611 except for the automatic control. Same cooling unit and box, but different control logic. The general N6xx/N8xx service manual should [mostly] apply.

 

[pappi49]

That would be the wrong direction if you want it warmer rather than colder.

The freezer should reach approximately 0-10 F and the fridge 35-39 F. Measure the temperature in the fridge by placing a thermometer in a bowl of water and not immediately adjacent to the cooling fins. The freezer is small enough it can be measured anywhere (air circulation is not a significant factor).

Excessive cooling indicates the cooling unit is not cycling, i.e. it remains on too long. This is more easily determined in gas mode because the presence of the flame indicates whether the cooling unit is running or not.

Here is the N611V Install & Op manual:

https://forestriverinc.com/brochures/0000/0000RefrigeratorNORCOLDN611VN811VManual.pdf

I believe the N611V is the same as the vanilla N611 except for the automatic control. Same cooling unit and box, but different control logic. The general N6xx/N8xx service manual should [mostly] apply.

Gary, please note;
OK you have one of the FEW N611V models that has Auto Temp Control vs adjustable temp settings

On that Version of the N611 you can relocate the thermistor 3-4 fins at a time to have MINOR affect on overall temps
Moving to the right...warmer temps
Moving to the left.....colder temps

You must remember that my fridge is the N611"V" as opposed to the N611.

 

[pappi49]

Gary, I apologize if I came across as a smart a$$ in my previous comment. That was noat my intent, Here is the page from my owners manual tahat gives the proper instructions for adjusting the thermistor. You may have to enlarge it to make it legible.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

No worries, Pappi. Do what the manual says.

 

[pappi49]

Just thought I would up date everone on my troubles with my Norcold N611V.

As you may recall I was having trouble with my fridge freezing everythiing. This was after replacing the thermistor, and adjusting it per the manual. Nothing I tried seemed to have any affect at all on the temp.

Whgile scouring the inter net for a soulution I came across this panel that is a direct replacement for the factory original.

NORCOLD OPTICAL DISPLAY BOARD 636388 (FITS THE N611V/ N811V) - UPGRADED BOARD​

I finall got a chance to find out if it works and yes it does. Temps were in the high 80's to low 90's and it kept the fridge perfect per my interior thermometer. Hopefully I have put this problem behind me.

I

 

[Larry N.]

Glad you got it fixed, and thanks for getting back to us with your results.

 

[Kirk]

Thank you for taking the time to return and let everyone know! That helps us.