North To Alaska

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Marsha,
When we were there there was a little community theatre right our in parking lot of the dry camping spit.  I  attended several Plays there and  totally enjoyed the small town community feel.  Also visit the big  Visitor Center Museum in  Homer.
 
      Marsha & Tim, Donna & I couldn't help thinking about you two at the supper table tonight.  BBQ'd Atlantic Salmon, and boiled NEW POTATOES.  It was SOOOO good, and it was our first feed of new potatoes this year.  Halibut is ok, but no comparison to the salmon.

Ed
 
Betty, I saw the little theater, looked interesting; but we are running out of time.  The one thing we did want to do, but can't work in is a trip to Seldovia by boat.  It was a toss up between that and the bear fly in trip.  The bear fly in won out.  It's supposed to rain tomorrow, so if our flight gets cancelled we'll do the Seldovia trip.

Ed & Donna, we think of you often when we eat fish and potatoes.  However, lately we've been leaving out the potatoes and eating cole slaw.  ::)  I have no idea how to cook BBQ salmon.  The only way I know how to fix salmon is to put it in an aluminum foil "tent" smothered with butter and lemon juice.  Sometimes I sprinkle "boil ??" seasoning on it, then put everything on the grill. 

The captain of the boat I was on told me I could pan fry the Black Bass rock fish with butter and seasoning without putting it in a batter.  I might try that.  Clamming has opened up out on the spit, but I know nothing about it.  I need Anna for her techniques.

Marsha~
 
Marsha:
  My favorite way to BBQ salmon is like this.  Marinate for a couple of hours in Teriyaki sauce.  Put it on the grill with the skin side down.  Close the lid and cook for several minutes depending on thickness.  Baste with a little more teriyaki, turn over.  Cook for just a couple minutes. Don't over cook or it will be dry.  Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve.  Really simple, but really good. JM2C.

Steve

 
    Marsha, how soon you forget, we had BBQ'd salmon the first night in Chalottetown, along with mussells and new potatoes.  It is simple really, some melted butter (or lately I have been using olive oil since it is supposed to be better for you), some lemon juice, spiced as per taste, BBQ one side, baste the other, unlike steak, it need turned fairly frequently to ensure it is cooked through.  Keep basting with the butter/lemon until it is pink all the way through, you can tell that fish is cooked when it loses the shiny coloration.  Secret to cooking fish is just that, cook until done, but do not over cook as it will dry our.  I haven't found a fish that doesn't BBQ well.

Ed
 
Marsha/CA said:
Indiana Journey....Halibut is going for $28.95 today here on the Kenai Peninsula!  Don't know what it's going for in the lower 48.

Marsha~

Costco has it fresh at $20/lb., but I get it at Sprouts for $9.99 on sale--fresh, line-caught, not farmed.  It's on sale this week, and I bought wonderful cedar planks at Costco up there in AK.  At home, I buy them at Lowe's.  Soak the planks for about an hour and put your fresh catch on the barbie--you'll think you're in Heaven!
 
Homer, AK to Cooper Landing, AK
We are settled in at Cooper Landing and really like this area.  Tim is mentioning ?buying a lot?.  Hummm, I don?t want to be this far from the lower 48. 
The first couple of days in Homer were full of some sunshine and cool temps, but not uncomfortable weather.  We cleaned the coach, did several (lots) of loads of laundry, which became a frustrating and a longer than normal process.  The washer/dryers in the campground were slow?some broken?and some beginning to break.  A wash was $4.00 and a dry was $2.00 with some machines taking twice as long to dry.  I washed one load then figured out how lousy everything was; packed up my laundry jumped in the car and headed to a Laundromat which was much better and faster but ended up taking much of my day.

The next day we tackled grooming Charlie.  I had called a local groomer but they were booked, so with Tim?s help we bathed/dried him and I clipped.
He now looks more like a poodle than a wooly bear, but he was getting so hot with all the hair, something needed to be done.

On the night before our fly-in bear viewing we had packed and were all ready to go, then got a call at 6:15 that they were going to do a delayed departure and not leave until 10:30.  It looked like it was going to clear off.  However at 9:30, they cancelled the flight and sent a notice via email that they were refunding our money.  Darn?drats?whatever.  But we were glad they wanted to be safe.

On Sunday we pulled out from Homer and headed to Cooper Landing.  Man, traffic was bumper to bumper as all the Anchorage folks were going home for the weekend.  It was only a 120 mile drive, quick and easy except for the traffic.  We are staying at the Kenai Princess RV Park which is affiliated with Princess Cruises.  It?s a very nice park, full hook-ups with cable TV and is $35.00/nite with Good Sam.  No ocean/bay view; but nice.
 
Monday I spent the morning lining up all sorts of activities for the next week.  We have noticed lots more campers and more campgrounds being full.  I did hours of internet searches and found a fly-in bear viewing trip out of Anchorage.  It?s a float plane which is something Tim wanted to do.  Several people had mentioned they had trouble making bus reservations for Denali, so I arranged the bus tour.  Also in Denali we are doing a float trip down a river through the glacial plains and a dinner theatre on a Friday night.  I thought I better get campgrounds lined up so we had a place to stay. 

Although we don?t like long bus rides, we are going to do the 11 hour trip to the end of Denali road.  II needed to make arrangement for someone to take care of Charlie.  One of the campgrounds has a service that will take him for a walk two times during the day.  Now that?s done.

I used up all of the morning just getting stuff organized.  That afternoon we took a drive back towards Sterling so that Tim could visit a carving store. He has brought his small carving tools with him and is working on a project, so he wanted to see what they had made.  On the way home we drove through the Skilat National Preserve and right at the end saw a Black bear who ducked back into the forest the minute he saw the car?.but he did have a cute brown nose.

On Tuesday we set the clock and got up at 4:30 am in order to meet the fly fishing guide for a ? day fly fishing float trip at 5:50 AM.  It was supposed to be sunny, but as we have discovered weather forecasting is not an exact science up here in the ?Last Frontier?.  Got into the float boat by 6ish; he wanted to see what we knew and to give some pointers on the river and safety so we spent some time right at the mouth of the Kenai River. 

It was a beautiful float trip even with the clouds, but very cold.  The water is 38 degrees; Tim and I both had on at least 4 layers of clothing.  Within the first hour I caught a 24? rainbow trout, weighting about 6 lbs; which was a ball to catch.  Shortly after that I caught another rainbow the guide called a ?Sparkled? trout.  The trout here are a little difference coloring; but fun to catch just the same.  Tim enjoyed his normal Trout fishing luck?..his line remained fishless.  I reminded him he caught more fish than I did on the charter trips.  That didn?t seem to help any!  <smile>

All the trout fishing on the Kenai is ?catch and release? which is what Tim and I are used to, so all we have are pictures.  Oh, wait, all I have are pictures.  But we did see something fun right at the end of the float trip; a juvenile grizzly bear eating salmon.  Then on the drive back to the campground we saw a lynx, which was very beautiful.  Both of us thought it might have been a bobcat, but the host here at the campground said that several campers have reported seeing it.  One thing else that was interesting to see towards the end of the trip were all the salmon fishermen.  The red salmon also call coho salmon are coming up the rivers in drowse.  You stand in the water along the bank and hope to snag one.  The salmon are not feeding so you cast your line into the water and slowing reel back in hoping they will gulp it into their mouths.  Apparently they swim with their mouths open and you just hope to catch it.  We saw several people pull in huge ones.

That afternoon we hiked 6 miles round trip to see the Russian River Falls where salmon are swimming upstream and jumping the ?stair-stepped? falls trying to get home to spawn.  I know it?s only fish, but when you think of how they struggle to get back to where they were born just to deposit eggs, recreate and then die, it?s a true representation of ?life going on?.

After such a full day, we both fell asleep in front of TV and slept like rocks that night.  This morning dawned bright and SUNNY??YEA!!!!
We plan to just relax today, take in the sun and go out for dinner.  Tomorrow we head to Anchorage and the fly-in bear viewing on Friday.  I?m also trying to find a place to have my hear cut and colored, I?m getting shaggy.

Oh forgot, we had a bit of good luck the other day.  When we were boondocking (dry camping) in Seward, I had the creative idea of emptying dirty dish washing water down into the toilet to keep the grey water tank from filling up so fast.  Well, I dumped a small spoon down and thought, oh boy, this will be fun, especially if it gets blocked and causes a problem.  When Tim emptied the tanks while we here, he found it.  The spoon had come out of the tank and was in the hose.  He found it when he was putting the hose away!  Thank you God for small favors.

fixed paragraphs
 

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Marsha/CA said:
  Man, traffic was bumper to bumper as all the Anchorage folks were going home for the weekend.  It was only a 120 mile drive, quick and easy except for the traffic.    We have noticed lots more campers and more campgrounds being full.  The red salmon also call coho salmon are coming up the rivers in drowse. 
Red Samon Run=Traffic & Full campgrounds
You are right in the middle of a HUGE run and Dipnetters and Fisherman are on it! ;)
 
You are right...they are everywhere.

To all:
Sorry for the format of the long messages I'm writing.  Somehow Word isn't doing what I want.  :mad:

Marsha~
 
Marsha/CA said:
You are right...they are everywhere.

To all:
Sorry for the format of the long messages I'm writing.  Somehow Word isn't doing what I want.  :mad:

Marsha~

I don't know about the others, but I am really enjoying your messages. It seems that we are a couple of weeks ahead of you in Fairbanks. If you can get into Riley Campground at Denali, go there. No services and restricted generator times, but the ranger programs were great and the sites were good, too.

One request... When you go to a new paragraph, hit enter twice. It makes reading them much easier.

Keep those long posts coming!
 
Michel, I fixed the paragraphs.  When I compose the message in Word then copy and paste, it formats everything as one long document.  :mad:

Riley Campground sounds great, but we need someone to check on "Charlie" the dog. 

Marsha~


 
Anchorage, AK
On Wednesday we left Cooper Landing at the leisurely time of 10:30 am or thereabouts in beautiful gorgeous SUNSHINE.  However just a  mile or so down the road, I noticed  a screw was working its way loose out of our windshield wiper blade.  Tim pulled over, finds that the nut holding the screw had fallen off.  Using his very expensive college degree and years and more years of experience under his belt, he wrapped electrical tape around the screw to hold it in and off we go.

It was only a 105 mile drive; but since the last time we were on this road it was rainy, cold with the wind whipping it up it was fun to see all the scenery.  The sides of the mountains were nearly emerald green, with tips of snow still on the tops.  Also the traffic was not nearly as bad as when we drove into the Kenai Peninsula.

I was a bit sad to leave.  Of all the places we have been at on this excursion, the Kenai Peninsula has been the most beautiful and the most diverse.  I hate to leave it.

Somewhere in my pea-brain I remembered someone mentioning prices were good at a fuel station just south of Anchorage.  The station also had a subway outlet attached.  We found it and filled up to the tune of $3.93 per gallon diesel.  Yipee, it?s under $4.00.

Downtown Anchorage was much less crowded than when we pasted through here before.  Good ole ?Jill? the 2nd (our new GPS) took us right to the campground.  Campgrounds here in Anchorage aren?t all that great, and this one is the best of the lot and it?s not much.  It?s a big facility with lots of full hook-ups sites.  It is however close to Costco and other shopping.  We also learned there is an air show this weekend, so jets were flying over our campground getting ready.

Shortly after we got organized and set up, Marty and Diane pulled in a few sites over and behind us.  We said our hellos then headed to Costco to stock up.  We couldn?t do too much shopping for stuff that goes in the freezer because we are still loaded with our 29 or so lbs of fish.
On Thursday, we had scheduled a fly-in bear viewing trip to Redoubt Bay on the edge of the Cook Inlet about a 50 minute air flight from Anchorage.  Since we were not able to go to Katmai for bear viewing, this was a good compromise.  Our flight was scheduled to leave at 12:30, land at the resort in Redoubt Bay, have lunch then board a pontoon boat to see bears.

The float plane was a blast and I loved it.  It was a 10 passenger plane that few about 2500 feet off the ground.  We were able to see Mt. McKinley in the distance which is still very snow covered.  The resort sits between 2 mountain ranges.  The pilot pointed out several sites along the way including oil platforms and a natural gas operation.

Lunch was excellent.  We had a homemade salmon patty sandwich, salad and fruit.  Then we climbed into the pontoon boat.  The bay is very much as it sounds, almost a horseshoe shape.  At the very far end, is a stream where the salmon are now trying to work their way up to spawn.  We also saw a huge eagle nest with two eaglets.  Didn?t really see the eaglets, but the guide said they were there. 

As we approached the location where there stream fed into the bay we were surprised to see several flat bottomed boats loaded with fisherman trying to catch salmon.  Tim and I were both a bit disappointed they were there; kinda ruined our natural wilderness effect.  But smack dab in the middle of all the fishing was a black bear trying his best to get brave and get into the water.  Apparently he had been there all morning and had no luck getting his salmon.  He was maybe 3-4 years old and didn?t understand the finesse of getting his meal.  Shortly after that a second black bear joined in.

In the meantime all these fishermen were pulling in salmon right and left and we began to see the black bear get braver and more frustrated.  He got in the water and took off after a boat trying to get their catch of fish.  The guide scared him off and he actually looked like he climbed onto a rock and was pouting after he got chased off. 

The second black bear was also trying to catch something to eat, but his luck wasn?t any better.

During all this commotion one of the other people in our group had a carrying case loaded with lenses for his Canon EOS slr camera.  I think he took pity on me and loaned me his 100-400 mm canon lenses.  Oh my gosh, what a lens!!!  I?ve heard people talk about that lens, but have never shot with it.  It is fabulous; it has 2 stabilizers and a push/pull zoom motion; along with a tripod mount.  I?ve asked Santa for it for Christmas.

Just about the time we were getting ready to leave and continue around the bay looking for bears, a brown bear comes right down the trail scattering the black bears.  They are very afraid of him.  He jumps into the water, slaps his massive arms trying to stun some salmon but his luck is about as bad as the black bears.  He spends just a short time trying to get fish, and then heads back into the brush.

We continue around the bay and stumble onto 2 more black bears.  Time goes quickly and it?s time to head back to Anchorage.  This time we are in a 6 seat plane.  Our pilot is an Alaskan Photo Pilot and its fun to hear his version of the terrain.  He spots a pod of Beluga Whales, circles back and lowers the plane down to the water so we can see them.  What a fun day.
 

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SargeW said:
Awesome trip Marsha! Since it requires flying, Diane and I will live vicariously through you on this one!

Ahhh...No wonder you didn't take me up on my offer to go on a patrol flight!

Marsha, I'm really enjoying your updates.

Kev
 
Kevin Means said:
Ahhh...No wonder you didn't take me up on my offer to go on a patrol flight!
Kev

Oh no Kev, I would love to go along on a flight, it's Diane that I would have to drug to get here feet off the ground!
 
What a great trip, Marsha!  Love the bear photo.  Poor baby!  It must have been really fun watching the bears.

I see you got your spacing figured out.  Those things can be so frustrating!  But, it's much easier to read now so thank you.

ArdraF
 
It was a short drive to Talkeetna from Anchorage.  Talkeetna is off on a dead-end spur road from Highway 3 going North into Fairbanks.  There are lots of Bed & Breakfast establishments along the road.  Everything seems to be set back from the road, but there several fishing campgrounds and fishing guides all along this stretch which is filled with rivers and streams.  One campground had a handmade sign sitting near the road that said ?The Silvers are in?.  Silver Salmon are coming up the river to spawn.  We?ve noticed the forest is thicker and you can?t see much back into the trees and there are not a lot of mountains.

Talkeetna is at the confluence of 3 rivers and is an aviation and supply base for Mt. McKinley climbing expeditions.  They have lots to do here:  horseback riding, float trips, flight sightseeing air trip tours even landing on glaciers, sled dog kennel tours and museums.  It?s mix of old-town Alaska and tourist destination.

The campground we are staying at is Talkeetna Camper Park and is actually pretty nice.  Lot of Alder trees; and for Tim?s entertainment, a train track right behind the campground; however it is not heavily used.  Mostly the tracks are for the Denali Park riders and an occasional freight train.
It is a more touristy town than we were expecting; and add to that there were several busloads of tourist who came in on cruise ships either by bus or train going up to Denali National Park. 

Our main reason for coming here was so Tim could experience ?Sourdough? pancakes that he has seen on the Travel Channel.  They are served at the historic ?Roadhouse? and the restaurant has been using the same sourdough ?starter? since the early 1900s.  Those of you who have ever made sourdough biscuits or bread know that it takes a starter (yeast and other ingredients) to get the bread to rise.  You keep adding yeast (I think) to the batch to keep the fermenting process continuing.  You do not use the entire batch, but retain a small amount so that you can keep making bread.  I?m doing this from memory, so I?m sure I?ve forgotten something along the way.  But that?s the basic idea.

Tim?s thinking was that we could have pancakes for lunch and then be on our way the next morning; but we had missed the breakfast timeframe by 15 minutes.  My thinking was that we would get them in the morning before heading on to Denali NP.

This is a cute town, with gift shops and restaurants along the main drag.  There was even a mandolin player serenading everyone passing by. We walked around town a bit and did some shopping for our granddaughter and other gifts for family.  Since we had to wait on the pancakes until the next day, we stopped in at the local brewery for a late lunch.  The entire time we were in town, we could see and hear small airplanes taking off and landing taking tourist on air sightseeing trips.  At one time we saw 2 large helicopters take off and land.  One of the air packages was to land on a glacier so that you could walk around.

On Tuesday, we got up early and walked back down to the famous Roadhouse for the pancakes.  Hardly anyone was there, so we got right in.  The pancakes were much bigger than we expected, as the pancake hung off the sides of a regular 8 inch dinner plate.  Since we?ve been careful with our sugar and carbohydrate consumption on this trip, those pancakes tasted fabulous.  Mine was full of blackberries, Tim?s was plain.
On our walk to the restaurant we had a glimpse of Mt. McKinley?s peak sticking out of the clouds.  We were hoping to get another look on our way back home, but no such luck.

Since we had not unhooked the tow car, it took us no time at all to get ready to leave and we were once again on the road heading north to Denali.
The drive was an easy 2 lane road with not much along the way; some very small communities, and fishing services.  South of Caldwell, the terrain changes with more large mountains becoming visible and the road rolls and twists coming into Denali.
 
We are staying at Denali Motel and RV Park 6 or miles north of Denali because it is the only campground in the area that provides dog services through the day.  For $10.00 they will walk, feed and take care of a pet.  They will come to your RV to meet the dog, getting to know them and their personality.

After getting set up we decided since the sun is shining (yippee) and rain is predicted for the rest of the week, we should try to at least see Mt. McKinley and some of the area.  The Visitor Center is about 7 miles back south.  It is full of information, we watch a 20 minute movie about the park; beautiful photography.
 
Even with the sun and some clouds Mt. McKinley has an ecosystem of its own as clouds have settled in around the cluster of mountains and it?s not visible.  We drove into the Park to the 15 mile limit just to see what we could see.  Since they are replacing all the culverts, the road has lots of gravel sections.
 
Our plans while here are to take the long bus ride on Thursday, attend a dinner/play Friday evening and a float trip on Saturday.  I think our schedule is full.
 
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