Northcentral US with the Stocks 2012

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parttymer said:
I'm looking forward to your narrative on Kansas City.

Stan

Stan, I'm so sorry, but we did Kansas City last year, so this year we only used it as a free overnight stop.  We did spend several days there, and we especially enjoyed eating BBQ at a different place each night--so sorry we didn't do a repeat instead of going to Harrah's buffet.

We are headed to Abilene, KS, and Oklahoma City.  We live in CA, and our kids insist that we must be home by Thanksgiving.  We spent Thanksgiving on the road in Florida, and it was the loneliest I've ever been, so I'll never do that again. 
 
Nov. 7 Day 77 Oklahoma City, OK

We drove into downtown OKC to the Myriad Botanical Gardens & Crystal Bridge Tropical Conservatory.  The grounds looked brown and un-watered.  There was construction on the grounds, and I thought they were taking down the sign since we couldn't find a sign anywhere.  I called the phone number listed on their website, and it was disconnected with no new number.  I called the OKC Visitors Bureau, which said they were thriving (definitely an exaggeration), and gave me a new number.  We found street parking easily once we knew where to find the entrance.  However, there was only one handicapped spot, and that was occupied.  The spot we used had a curb, and the only way to get to the garden entrance was by traveling the wrong way in a traffic lane for several spaces until I could get to the intersection's curb cut--definitely not very safe.

We paid a $6 admission to two lovely un-informed information clerks.  It was after noon, so we asked for directions to the cafe.  She pointed to the building that will be used as a cafe when they get someone to rent it.  No food was OK, but we were both thirsty.  She directed us to the basement coin-operated drink machine.  $1.25--no problem, in fact Dean was glad to unload his pocket of change.  But the machine doesn't take change. (Why does it have a change slot?)  We came up with 4 one-dollar bills, and Dean added 6 quarters to his bulging pocket.

We entered the tropical conservatory.  We strolled through it in 10 minutes.  We found a few interesting signs, but most plants weren't labeled.  Their orchids were beautiful. (Pictures 1 & 2)  They repeated many plants and we were curious about what this was, but no one knew. (Picture 3)  The golden trumpet vine was labeled (Picture 4).  They did have interesting architectural features--bridges, bamboo fences along walkways.

There were a few plants on the second floor.

We went up to the third floor and walked on a bridge above the canopy of the plants we had just seen.  It gives an interesting perspective.  There was a mini-garden of about 6 cactus at the end.

We went outside to search for any "gardens".  We found a group of people going through a nice children's play area and garden.  There was a tour of people who looked like firemen/cop-types, so I asked what the tour was.  It turned out that it was a group of middle management city employees there to familiarize them with the improvements that have been made recently.  Among the participants was Jennifer Lindsey-McClintock, the Public Information & Marketing Manager.  She came over to us, and I gave her some constructive suggestions.  I was very positive, and I didn't address anything for which I didn't have a solution.  She responded well, and she told us she'd check out the parking, phone, etc.  She suggested her two favorite sites, so we had a quick lunch and proceeded to the Centennial Land Run Monument.

Oh, my goodness!  There are actually 4 monument groupings now that represent the first Land Run.  (Pictures 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10).  It will not be completed until 2015, but it is already a 'DON'T MISS".  It is currently oddly situated--you have to drive to the back lot of the Pro Bass Shops and you'll see it on your right.

In 1890, Congress established the Unassigned Lands as Oklahoma Territory.  Lands iin the Indian Territory were swindled and opened (my words) and given in 40 acre sections to encourage people to settle.  If they worked the land for 5 years, they were the new owners.  At first there was Oklahoma Territory and Indian Territory, established by pact.  Then it was made all Oklahoma Territory, and in 1907, Oklahoma became the 46th state.

The statues are huge, and you can feel the power of the horses and hear the hoof beats. The details and expressions on the peoples' and horses' faces are amazingly realistic.  It is something you have to see to feel, but better than everything that we saw at Myriad was the suggestion that we come here.

We went to the new, nicely decorated, immaculate Harkins Theatre ($6/seniors).  They have all the latest movies, $6 popcorn for 2 people, and the employees are very nice.  In California, we're paying $9.75.

Staying at Council Road RV Park, $31.50, FHU, 50 amps, lots of potholes on interior roads, friendly manager
 

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Nov. 8 Day 78 Oklahoma City, OK

OKC's Public Information Officer, who we met at the gardens yesterday, told us that the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum was the best Western heritage museum and Western art museum in the United States.  So, we postponed our departure one day to go see it.  Wow! 

As we approached the entrance there was a huge impressive bronze statue of a cowboy.  Unfortunately, the sun too bright for good pictures.  (high of  79?--YEAH!) Admission for 2 seniors was $19.50.  In the lobby the statue, "The End of the Trail," (Picture 1) reflects a 19th century Indian warrior defeated and bound for oblivion.  The museum displayed a plaque with a thumbnail history of the  Indians being confined to reservations, being ravaged by disease and starvation, the Indian children being forced to attend boarding schools that forbade them to speak their own language or celebrate their culture under threat of physical punishment, and their being denied citizenship.  During WWII, things changed.  Young men enlisted in the armed forces, and other Indians went into the cities to work for defense industries.  From a low of 250,000 in 1890, the Native American population in the U. S. is now over 2 million.  Today, Native Americans blend their culture with achievement in many areas, almost as if this warrior lifted his head and continued on the trail.

While we waited for a film, we admired the large John Wayne statue.  He presided over the opening day of the museum and gave his entire collection of Western memorabilia to the museum.  We went into the theater and saw the orientation film that was narrated by Tom Selleck.

There was wonderful art on the hallway walls, and at the end of the long corridor was a wonderful statue of a seated, pondering Lincoln.  We continued into the National Geographic photographic art display.  We had seen many of the photos at another art museum earlier on this trip.  The pictures were so good we went through the whole gallery again.

We walked down another long corridor to the main galleries.  We saw oils, pencils, watercolor, ink, wildlife bronzes, and a type of paper art that we've never seen before.  It's carved special paper that is sturdy and delicate simultaneously and is used to make beautiful Indian scenes.  At the end was an enormous  female cougar, "Canyon Princess," picture 2.  It was cut from a 31-ton block of Colorado yule marble and stands 15' tall and weighs more than eight tons.  It took the sculptor five months to complete.  While I appreciate the magnitude of the job, I saw so many others that I thought were better.  My favorite was a mama otter with her pup on her tummy.  At that point we saw a "NO PHOTOGRAPHY" sign, so we put away the camera.

But, our eyes saw super high-quality work everywhere.
? a large, superb, expensive gift shop
? a 1900 Western cattle town with full-size saloon, church, and school
? a hands-on children's cowboy corral where kids can dress up and pretend they are real cowboys/cowgirls in a bunkhouse
? a gallery of exquisite artwork.  They have a show of paintings priced from $8,000 to $90,000.  Each year for about 3 decades they have bought the grand prize.  winner.
? a gallery of Native American art
? a gallery of fine American firearms
? a gallery of Native American art on utensils, tools, and clothing
? a Western Performers gallery with  separate areas for each of the TV cowboy and movie stars I grew up with, as well as some before my time, like Tom Mix
a Western theatre where they were screening old cowboy films
an awesome American Rodeo Gallery, with full-size pens for the bulls, calves, and horses and a TV playing a tape of past performances in each of the 6 rodeo events.  It featured clothing, trophies, equipment, and history of the stars.
? outdoor gardens, statue, and art gallery
? a very good cafe with menu food or buffet

Staying at Council Road RV Park, $31.50, FHU, 50 amps, lots of potholes on interior roads, friendly manager
 

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Linda, I love the bronzes!  I seem to recall a Charles Russell art museum in OKC.  Did you see it?  Also, there was a Glenn Ford movie called Cimmaron about the race across the Cimmaron Strip in Oklahoma.  The bronzes reminded me of it.

ArdraF
 
Nov. 9 Day 79 Amarillo, TX

It was an easy 270 mile drive.  There were lots of crosswinds.  I loved the 82? weather.

Staying at Oasis RV Park off I-40 Exit 60--$29.25, FHU with 50 amps, all pull-thrus, awesome for us now, but I wouldn't want to be here in the summer.  I think the total asphalt with concrete pads and rectangles of weed-free xeriscaping is perfect.  There are no trees for the strong winds to blow down.  Very well maintained.  It's all level and perfect for handicapped. 
 
ArdraF said:
Linda, I love the bronzes!  I seem to recall a Charles Russell art museum in OKC.  Did you see it?  Also, there was a Glenn Ford movie called Cimmaron about the race across the Cimmaron Strip in Oklahoma.  The bronzes reminded me of it.

ArdraF

A year or two ago, Dean and I went to a Russell Museum in Great Falls, MT.  It was a good museum.  There were a lot of Remingtons on display there, also.  I was surprised to find that I enjoyed his oil paintings more than the bronzes.  I never got to see the movie "Cimmaron," but I do remember hearing the name.  Was something on TV with that name?

We had to laugh at the fact that our GPS was intoxicated--really drunk-- in OKC, and it kept on taking us back to Reno Dr.  Several places we went to were on Reno, but our GPS would take us in circles and return us to where we had left 10 minutes earlier.  When we finally were able to navigate on our own, we left!
 
Delayed post--we were too busy having fun and I just finished it.


Nov. 5 Day 75 Blackwell, KS (just a few miles N of OK border)

Today we were at The Eisenhower Presidential Library and Meditation Chapel when it opened. The first large area housed an extensive art exhibit related to historic martyrs through a variety of media.  His works were compelling.  His grandfather was a dissident in North Korea, jailed, and executed.  In Eisenhower later years, his number one objective was peace.  When asked what his proudest accomplishment was of his presidency, he said that it was that no American soldiers shed blood during his presidency.  The focus of the art was the courage people have shown in standing up for what is right.

Then we went to a theatre and saw Eisenhower's farewell speech when he left the presidency.

Most of the museum was focused on his war years, not his presidency.  Ike had an interest in the Civil War, and there were many artifacts that he had collected.  There were excellent portraits that Ike had painted of his heroes, Robert E. Lee and Abraham Lincoln.

Ike was a late applicant to college.  He really wanted to go to Annapolis, but he was too old.  He graduated 61st in his class at West Point, and he was 125th in demerits.  He injured his knee playing football and was only allowed to graduate if he promised not to apply for mounted service.  On his preference card for his post-graduate assignment, he listed, "infantry, infantry, infantry."

I learned a lot of history about WWII  They did not address his reported affair with his driver.  They did have a taped interview with Barbara Walters playing in a mini-TV.  Reporters in those days were so much more tactful.  She asked Mamie if she worried about Ike when he was in Europe in WWII.  She said that of course, she did.  Barbara then said, with being away from Mamie for so long, did she worry about him being tempted to stray.  And Mamie said, of course, not, no, no, no, nothing like that.  And Barbara never mentioned the other woman's name and changed the topic.

There were lots of relics of the 50's, a typical kitchen, gifts that they'd received, their clothes, and we got a good understanding of their lives and way of thinking.  Each of us independently were surprised that there wasn't more said about the accomplishments of his presidency.  We spent about 4 hours at the museum, his family's mausoleum, and at his boyhood home (The Eisenhower Museum bought the other homes in the neighborhood and then removed those houses.)

The house Ike grew up (Picture 1) in was really tiny for the mom, dad, grandpa, and 4 boys. Tours are given in 15 minute intervals.

I think Ike and Mamie maintained their humble personas.  Mamie was critiqued for not buying dresses in Paris and wearing the same dress twice.  She replied that she was quite happy with her $16.95 dresses from an American department store.

We couldn't help but compare with the other presidential museums we've seen.  This museum reflects more modest times.

By the time we had a quick lunch in the RV, it was 3:30.  I thought we'd drive a couple hours.  We drove almost 300 miles--way past dark.  Crazy!  But, Dean's happy, it was easy driving, so I guess it's OK.  We're safely here.

Stayed at Blackwell, KS Walmart
 

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Delayed Nov. 6 Log Day 76 Oklahoma City, OK

We liked Oklahoma's Capitol Building (Picture 1) so much we "accidentally" went for our second visit in the last couple of years. (Actually, Dean planned this trip, and I unthinkingly followed his itinerary.)  As soon as we pulled into the parking lot, I realized that we'd been here before, and I vividly remembered it.  Both times we went around in circles--literally--trying to find the entrance to the parking lot.  That triggered my memory, and when I saw Petunia #1, the oil well in front of the capitol, I knew for sure.  It was named because it was sunk 660' under the governor's petunias.  However, they found cracks in the Capitol's foundation and shut it down in 1956, despite the fact there is a huge pool of oil there, worth billions of dollars.

The flag (Picture 2) was flying straight out in the breeze, showing the Osage shield covered by a calumet (peace pipe) representing Native Americans, and the olive branch representing European Americans.  It has 6 brown crosses, which are the Native American symbols of stars, on the shield.  The large blue background represents the first official flag flown by any Native American Nation, the Choctaw flag of the American Civil War.

This was an opportunity to see how much I remembered.  Many of my memories were right on; some were absent; some were incorrect.  On the outside of the capitols are two lions (I remembered them as griffins) who stand for strength, peace, and integrity.  Atop the Capitol is the 3-ton statue, "The Guardian."  He represents all the Indians who walked the Trail of Tears and all the Indians in Oklahoma, the survivors of the Dust Bowl, floods, storms, and tornadoes and the Oklahomans who have died in the service of their country.  Oklahoma does the best job of any state at paying tribute to the Native Americans, whose land the Europeans stole through armed aggression and treaties that they never kept.  However, there are times when they, too, are insensitive and clueless, in my opinion.

Oklahoma was part of the Louisiana Purchase.  The U. S. paid 4 cents per acre. I think the original territorial capitol was in Guthrie.  The legislators noticed that the railroads were crossing in Oklahoma City.  They had an election to decide whether to move the capitol or not.  The state attorney general knew it was going to be a landslide for Oklahoma City, so he dispatched three men to get the Constitution.  They came dressed as laundrymen, stole it, and walked out with it in a laundry bag.  To this day, there is animosity over OKC "stealing" the state's Constitution.

When the Capitol was built, the legislature only allocated enough funds to build 3 floors because of budget constraints caused by WWI.  By eliminating the dome that the architect had planned, they saved $1,000,000 and were able to build all six floors.  They added the dome in 2001.  (Picture 3) It was supposed to be paid for entirely by contributions, and they had pledges for the total amount.  However, some of the pledgers suffered business reverses, and the state did pick up $2 million of the $21 million tab.

The state seal is the center part of the dome.  (Picture 4)  It was added in the lobby's floor in 1996. (Picture 5)  Each ray of the seal's five-pointed star represents one of the Five Civilized Tribes, the Chickasaw, Choctaw, Seminole, Creek, and Cherokee Nations.  All of them lived in Southeastern U. S. before their forced relocation. They were called "civilized" by white settlers because they lived in European style settlements as farmers.  How insensitive!  There were 61 other tribes residing in Oklahoma at the time the seal was adopted.  Were they "uncivilized?"  The state motto, "Labor Conquers All," is written in Latin with a green wreath. In the center of the star, figures symbolizing Oklahoma Territory and Indian Territory (Eastern Oklahoma) "joining" together to form the state of Oklahoma.  The Indian territorial governments of the "Civilized Tribes" had 3 branches and were modeled on ours.  They had good relations with the white settlers. 

In the Hall of Governors, (Picture 6) they have busts of all their governors and my favorite painting.  You "read" it like a timeline from left to right.  It starts with dust and storms and progresses to their nationally-famous medical center and the astronauts from Oklahoma to a prediction of what the future holds.  You can see it at the end of the row of statues, but not in sufficient clarity to enjoy all of its symbolism.

I think Oklahoma has perhaps the most striking Supreme Court courtroom in the nation (Picture 7).  It is spacious, full of meaning, and is beautiful.  It was repainted in 1997 for only $7,700.  I especially enjoyed the plaster-of-Paris rosettes in the ceiling and their original light (Picture 8).

There were 5 territorial justices originally.  They complained of being overworked so they added 4 more to equal 9, just like the U. S. Supreme Court.  They are APPOINTED BY THE GOVERNOR WITH NO NEED FOR RATIFICATION BY ANYONE!  They do have to be re-confirmed every 6 years, but that has never happened.  However, two have resigned after charges of bribery were laid.  Recently, they have moved across the street to the historic state offices.  They are unusual in that they only handle civil cases.  The Court of Criminal Appeals is the court of last resort in criminal matters.  On our next trip, I want to see their new digs.

In the Senate there are 32 Republicans and 16 Democrats.  In the House it is just as lopsided.  There are 70 Republicans and 31 Democrats.  The governor, Mary Fallin, is a Republican.  Oklahoma is definitely a "red" state.

In 1993, a $1.5 million restoration (as much as the original construction of the whole building cost) of the Capitol was done.  They removed paneling, dropped ceiling, some doors, and such discoveries were made.  They found elegant architectural details. 
The House Chamber (Picture 9) is much more elaborate than the Senate (Picture 10).  Some of the restoration work involved adding features that were on the original plans but never happened because they were too costly.  They used 20 gallons of gold paint with gold leaf in it.  The old-fashioned fans along the wall are original and still work (there's a lot of hot air in there!)  Each fan has the state seal in the center of its grille.  Of course, they have AC.  All bills about budgets and taxes have to originate in the House of Representatives.

Three pieces of the stained glass skylight panels from the Senate were found in the attic, and the company which made them still had the 1917 work order and was able to replicate them. (Picture 11) Light now filters through windows which were sealed in the 30's.  A story says that an overeager reporter climbed onto the roof outside the Senate to eavesdrop, so they sealed them.

There are many wonderful works of art throughout the Capitol.  The oils, architecture, and statues would rival works in many excellent art museums.  "Flight of Spirit," painted by a Chickasaw celebrates five world-famous Oklahoma Indian prima ballerinas, and it is beautiful.  It demands your attention, even from far away across the rotunda.

Oklahoma City is a "Don't Miss" Capitol.

Staying at Council Road RV Park, $31.50, FHU, 50 amps, lots of potholes on interior roads, friendly manager
 

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Nov. 10 Day 80 Tucumcari, NM

I wrote yesterday's post in Amarillo before we left to eat dinner at Tyler's BBQ.  They were voted #1 Bar-B0Q in Amarillo by both critics at a contest and the people who ate samples.  His cafe is a family effort.  His mom and dad were out bussing tables and making sure everything had everything they wanted.  The food was wonderful, especially my tender, juicy kmm ribs and potato salad.  We have had other beans we preferred, but that's just a matter of taste.  He has a very different and delicious peach cobbler.  It has a spice cake type top, rather than a crust.  Really yummy!  We will stop there every time we are in Amarillo.

When we started this morning, the winds were strong, and they did nothing but get stronger.  Tumbleweeds were crossing the interstate like they were being shot out of a machine gun.  Truckers were having trouble staying in their lanes, and so were we.

Soon we heard banging noise from our largest slide-out.  Dean pulled into an asphalt lot, used the RV to block the strong winds, got on a ladder, while I prayed.  Somehow he used rope to keep the slide top from banging.  He insisted on going 35 miles further to Tucumcari.  I wanted to stop at the little RV park just 1 mile away.

Cactus RV Park--$19.25, PA rate, level, FHU, 50 amps for part of the night--the whole park lost power sometime after we went to bed

Nov. 11 Day 81 Albuquerque, NM

What should have been a short 170 mile drive took us almost 6 hours.  We got up early. We were on the road by 8:00 to beat the winds, which were supposed to peak at 30 mph at 2:00, with gusts of 45-55 mph.  We figured to be in Albuquerque by about 11:00.  The best laid plans.... 

We noticed a dusting of snow and some patches at the sides of the road, but it didn't interfere with anyone's driving.  However, we came to a dead stop, and we could see miles of cars on the slight grade ahead of us.  A big semi-truck's front end was badly smashed up, and it was laying on its side, covering the 2 right lanes on I-40.  We were in the backed up traffic for about 10 miles.  For us it was a loss of time, but I hope that's all the trucker lost, too.

We pulled into the park at about 2:00, got hooked up, and Dean took off for the National Museum of Nuclear Science & History.  I wanted to stay at the RV and clean, preparatory for storage.  The GPS wouldn't take the museum address.  Dean tried a variety of ways to find it.  He came across some other businesses whose products we needed.  So, he did get something accomplished.  He now has good directions, and he'll see the museum tomorrow.

We wanted to eat Mexican in New Mexico, so we went to Sadie's, which was highly rated on Trip Advisor.  The food was good, but VERY spicy.

Staying at Enchanted Trails--$18.03, PA rate, FHU, 50 amps,
 
Thanks to all who contributed ideas, encouragement, and help to make our trip enjoyable.  We've had a good time and are now looking forward to "home time."

Happy trails to all!
 
I'm always let down when  your travel journal end. It is like reading a travel brochure of places to put on bucket list. 
Please tell me you had been to the  Federal Building Memorial in Oklahoma City on a prior trip.  If not, you must return to see how moving this tribute is to the victims of that bombing!  It is worth the trip.Also  we visited the banjo Museum while there and had a blast.

Linda  your travels are so much fun.  You guys are living the American Dream.  Glad to see you enjoy retirement.  You deserve it! Have a Happy Thanksgiving and please consider Quartzsite!  I know I know....
 
Thanks once more for taking us along on your journey, Linda.  You write so beautifully and cover interesting places so thoroughly that I really feel like I've "seen" the places you describe.  And thank you, Dean, for the wonderful pictures.  Can hardly wait for your next adventure!

Margi
 
Adios until next time.  I'm mentally preparing myself for Linda's travel reports withdrawal....  Safe home!

ArdraF
 

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