Oil Change

[RobertR]

I am new to diesels, and the CAT house is telling me I only need to change the oil every 10,000 miles.  The engine is C7 catcaller 330 hp. in a 2004 Winn Journey. 

That seems to me like  long time between oil changes.  How often do you change oil? 

 

[Ned]

Your engine manual will have the service schedule, but the C7 is 11,000 miles or 12 months for the 19 qt. sump and 15,000 miles or 12 months for the 28 qt. sump.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Actually, that is a fairly short interval for a big diesel.  Mine is 12 months or 15k miles.

Most RVers end up changing oil & filter based on time rather than mileage. Ditto for tranny  fluid, chassis lube, Coolant, hydraulics, etc. RVers just don't put enough miles on the rig.

 

[Jim Godward]

Robert,

I have the 3126B version of your engine and we change once a year whether it needs it or not.  We normally do not get enough miles so the clock runs out on us.  going on 11 years and it works for us.

 

[Mavarick]

I also agree with the above, change it and put it away for storage so it's ready to go next spring.
Pay attention to what comes out, look for contamination and smell the oil. You are specifically looking for signs of water or diesel fuel. Look over the magnet and clean it, If you have one. Get it to running temp before you dump the oil. I also am running the 3126B so I either use the Cat filter 1R-1807, Baldwin B76MPG or the NAPA 1791XE. (Be careful here, the NAPA 1791 is a 20 micron) I suggest you do not substitute except with a filter of a 5 micron or better rating. Your engine oil is used to fire the injection system (HEUI) so it needs to be kept clean.
I do the genset at the same time so it don't feel left out! 

 

[taoshum]

FWIW--- You can get the oil analyzed by companies who do this for big operators.  They will tell you based on the chemical composition and properties how much usable life is left regardless of mileage and time.  Once you have this information you can develop a change interval that matches your driving and traveling habits.  One person tried this after 5000 miles over 12 months and was told his oil was good for another 5/12.  Potentially saves a lot of oil but it's your MH.

 

[RobertR]

I'm not sure about the change it and put it away ready for next trip.  Would not condensation build up, adding water to the oil?

 

[Utclmjmpr]

Condensation won't occur if it isn't run during storage.>>>Dan

 

[taoshum]

I'm not sure about the change it and put it away ready for next trip.  Would not condensation build up, adding water to the oil?

IMHO... the first time you run the engine up to 190 deg F, the water will be gone... only to condense again later though.  I guess enough evaporates and condenses every thermal cycle that it somehow reaches a balance of some sort.  All I know for sure is that there's very little water visible in the oil when I drain it.  It's not like it is open to the atmosphere all the time.  There are millions and millions of these engines around the world and most of them seem to operate fine...hmmmm.

 

[mnmnutswer]

I would change the oil then make sure you run and drive the MH once a month. The operation (driving) of the MH will help keep the seals from drying out. Fuel filters should also be changed prior to winter to keep from freezing. What ever you do each month it is stored is less you have to repair when your ready to hit the road next year.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Taking it out for exercise once a month is goodness, but don't just run the engine and let it sit. Better not to run it at all.

The engine manufacturers recommend changing the oil before storing, so that any accumulated acids or contaminants are eliminated.

 

[BernieD]

The engine manufacturers recommend changing the oil before storing, so that any accumulated acids or contaminants are eliminated.

Gary

At the last couple of Cummins seminars that I attended the factory recommendation was to not run the engine while in storage and change the oil coming out.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I can't keep up with those guys - I think they change their seminar pitches just to keep it interesting! At least they still agree that the engine should not be run in storage, which is what I said above. If you aren't driving it, don't start it.

Most RVers aren't putting enough miles on their engines, or running in dirty environments,  to have to worry much about contamination anyway.

 

[Pigtrip]

I go by the chasis/engine service recommendations. My freight liner dealer also does an oil analysis each time (15,000 miles or one year). So far no issues but I think frequent use is better than extended storage. My '08 Journey (bought new) just hit 60k miles and it's in for oil change right now.

 

[denmarc]

Taking it out for exercise once a month is goodness, but don't just run the engine and let it sit. Better not to run it at all.

The engine manufacturers recommend changing the oil before storing, so that any accumulated acids or contaminants are eliminated.

Nailed it!  As a person who stores vehicles away not to be driven in the Michigan Winter, and a trucker by trade, I've done some research over the years.  I go through alot of oil in the late Fall.

Gary is spot on pertaining to changing engine oil just before storage.  Contaminants in the old oil are caustic and will eat away at metal and seals during storage.  Also, manufacturer recommended maintenance schedules are the best thing to follow.  Keep all paperwork and file away.  If new enough, any warranty claim to CAT or Cummins, they will require documentation of maintenance.  Been there, done that.  Cover your butt.

And I have to agree with Gary once again about taking the stored vehicle out for exercise during storage.  Diesel engines were built to run and pull/push.  Not sit idle in a covered area somewhere.  Not to mention that the circulation of coolant, oil, and other hydraulics, will keep the systems lubricated.

Condensation issues are a matter of choice.  Too many variables.

 

[RobertR]

Sounds reasonable to me. 

A friend of mine was Diesel mechanic for Sears for 25 years, now retired.  He says that running on the road is better than storing due to the contaminants that build up in the oil.  But seems to me that changing oil before storage would remove them. 

Next question:  Zinc was removed from all oil, even diesel oil more recently.  I know if you have an older gas engine with flat lifters, it is advisable to add some cam shaft break in oil during oil change.  I just pulled down two of them and both had worn/scored lifters and cam shafts which is how I learned about it.  Is there any need for the additives that the EPA removed to still be in diesel oil, if your engine is x years old? 

The only oil I know of that still has zinc is racing oil.  With out it the racing engines are not long for this world. 

 

[shoppeman1]

Hi,

I have a GAS Winnebago Vista with a Ford V10 engine and 4000 miles.  The "ford book" says change @ 7500 miles.  After reading this thread it appears that I should change the oil BEFORE the winter.  Is that the best recommendation? What if I only store for 30-60 days and decide to go South?

Also, my dealer told me to start the Winnebago Ford engine every 30 days along with the Generator....run them for 30 minutes and also move the sides in and out and use the hydraulic levellers.  Also dealer suggested Gas additive so the gas doesn't gunk up. It seems to me that folks on the thread say to let it stay...and not do this.

Am I reading this correctly?

Thanks,

Alan (a newbie), first winter.

I have winterized all the plumbing)

 

[BernieD]

A friend of mine was Diesel mechanic for Sears for 25 years, now retired.  He says that running on the road is better than storing due to the contaminants that build up in the oil.  But seems to me that changing oil before storage would remove them. 

Times change; engines are very different today, oils are very different today. If you don't start your engine while it is in storage, you are not creating any contaminants to build up in the oil. Cummins says today's engines should not be started while in storage and the oil should be changed when coming out of storage. You pay your money and make your choice.

Of course that creates a quandary with the chassis manufacturers. Spartan wants you to start the engine monthly and then move the chassis forward and back about 30'. That will reduce the seals drying out, but of course it doesn't do the engine any favors.

 

[Mavarick]

Guys, I have worked with Cummins, Cat, Detroit. Liebherr, Komatsu, etc for many many years. It doesn?t matter if it?s a $1k gas longblock or a $40k KTA series 16 cyl. Cummins, every mfr has a slight difference of opinion on certain things. This includes everything from oil sample results to storage and varying slightly from their recommendation will not kill your Rv or any part of it. Remember each mfr has to give you the same specific technical answer they would to someone using their product 400 hrs per month running at full throttle and peak HP. We all just want to do what?s best for our rig so a little common sense goes a long way. Remember the basics, using anything is better than leaving it sit.
With that said, you have to store your Rv and letting one sit thru winter is not going to hurt seals, oil, fuel, or components. There are certain things you can do to make it easier though, this is where the differences come into play. Always follow your manuals for service intervals, we pretty much have to do things yearly vs. mileage because of limited usage. Just winterize the rig including batteries if timeframe warrants it. Change the oil & filter in the engine and genset, do the fuel filters and park it. No one stores anything with dirty fluid in any industry, you shouldn?t either. This is the best method whether for a 6 month winter or just a couple months. The rig is now ready for spring/summer and will not need any oil or filters until next winter storage (unless you are the small % putting many miles on the rig). You don?t need anything special for storage in the oil, the fuel depending on temps. diesel can gel in extreme cold (won?t hurt anything unless you need to use it during that time, then you?ll need an additive). Keep your fuel tank topped off to avoid rust during storage, you will not have problems with diesel fuel in 6 months of sitting.
If you must run the engine etc then do it right. Take it out driving long enough to get it to running temp for app. 30 minutes and you can park it again. Don?t just start it for 10 min and leave it, this will hurt more than it will help.
These issues are pretty much the same for gas rigs. Gas stabilizers help a bit more than diesel but are not needed for less than a year of storage. Most stabilizers are sold to make us feel better more than the actual need for them. You do not need to worry about dry packing an engine or fuel system unless you are storing for a couple years, which I hope no one here ever has to worry about. This is about camping, moving and camping some more right?
Sorry for the length but tried to touch on most that I have been asked in the past. JM2C, hope it helps.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Alan,
If it's only 30 days or so, it doesn't even qualify as storage. I've parked in campgrounds longer than that. Gas additives are probably not needed at all, except perhaps for a dryer to reduce moisture (condensation), but just keeping the tank full pretty much handles that anyway.

The hydraulic jack manufacturers like to exercise the hydraulic system to distribute the fluid. It keeps the seals soft and avoids a rust spot on the hydraulic rams. Again, not a big deal and nothing to worry about in 30 or so days.

I would not run the slides in/out unless they are hydraulic. The electric driven rack & pinion system will be fine.

But do run the generator once a month under load. Not for the engine, but to dry out the electronic components and stator windings. Moisture is a major enemy there.