PEX cinch clamp?
- Thread starter donandlin
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Mark_K5LXP
Well-known member
If it's leaking, especially with a PEX clamp I would suspect something cracked or split, maybe where the hose is kinked there. Generally PEX crimps aren't terrible to do in close quarters with the right crimper. You can try a worm clamp on the flex hose, maybe even stack 2 if there's enough room on the fitting but another PEX crimp would have a higher chance of success.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Lou Schneider
Site Team
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2005
- Posts
- 13,302
The cinch clamp has a much tighter grip than what you can get with a screwdriver clamp, necessary because PEX is stiffer than a rubber hose so you need more force to compress it around the flange. A cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool works well to cut the old one off. Walmart has a cordless one for about $30 in their tool section.
Martian
Well-known member
My .02 is to cut the pex just behind the clamp and put a Sharkbite fitting to go from pex to barbed hose. A screw clamp will not tighten enough on the pex but it will work fine on braided hose as long as you cut it back past the kink.
Bobtop46
Well-known member
I would Add a 90 degree to remove the bend in the hose to prevent further leaks and then use one of the methods above.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
A Sharkbite (or similar brand push-to-fit) fitting is the easiest to use. You can probably find one with a hose barb on one side to connect the vinyl hose. Carefully cut the pex clamp off by cutting the metal (or just chop off the pex if there is enough slack).
Pex itself is rather stiff, so a screw clamp sometimes doesn't tighten enough for a leak-free joint.
Pex itself is rather stiff, so a screw clamp sometimes doesn't tighten enough for a leak-free joint.
Utclmjmpr
Well-known member
A PEX clamp does not have all the clamp gathered at one point as this one is..>>>Dan
youracman
Well-known member
Is this a PEX cinch clamp? Can I replace it with the old fashioned one that tightens with a screwdriver? How do you remove the original one located in a very tight place? Thanks!
If you happen have access to a Dremel Tool, its cutoff wheel will make short work of cutting across those clamps w/o touching the hose/pex ........... needs a bit of access though.
Good luck with the fix and safe travels to ya.
If you happen have access to a Dremel Tool, its cutoff wheel will make short work of cutting across those clamps w/o touching the hose/pex ........... needs a bit of access though.
Good luck with the fix and safe travels to ya.
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Thanks! I think we’ll give it a go!
I was a sharkbite fan. I did a kitchen remodel this summer, used sharkbite under the kitchen sink, strait forward application. I had an epic failure, the inside of the steel sleeves that catch the pipe (copper in my case).completely sheered off, if I had not been home and heard full force 1/2" water filling my kitchen and reacted immediately, I would have had a huge situation. Thankfully I had not laid down the new floor yet. Since then I have converted everything to pex I can. I plan to redo water softener and everything from a few years ago. Never again will I use sharkbite.
Martian
Well-known member
SHARKBITES are best at about 60psi but can be used up to 100psi per the specs. About 30 years of using SHARKBITE fittings I have not had one fail or heard of one that was installed properly and failed. There are probably some failures out there but if installed properly and used within its limitations there should be no issue.
Now I really need help. I cut the white hose off to make it easier to access the clamp and then tried cutting that off with a Dremel but it doesn’t even make a scratch on the clamp. So now we have no water and I need suggestions please!
gwinger
Well-known member
Those clamps are stainless steel.Fairly hard material. I just got done removing two on mine. A dremel with a heavy duty cutting 'wheel' sliced right through them. You can also use a pair of heavy wire cutters to cut though the crimp on the ring. Or use a flat head screwdriver and force it under the end of the ring,
prying it up and off the little tab that sticks out.
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Edd505
Well-known member
the issue and not the only RV maker that does this is the white is braided hose NOT PEX and they try and put that 1/2" hose onto a PEX fitting, they leak. I like the dermal to cut, I used a large side cutter.
Get a PEX like this and add the proper male hose, no more leaks ever at that point.
Get a PEX like this and add the proper male hose, no more leaks ever at that point.
Ray-IN
Well-known member
Borrow or rent a large end nipper, use it where the crimp is and it will cut through the clamp.
Rene T
Site Team
Can’t that tool be used to tighten the clamp in question? I would put a little heat to the Pex under the clamp then once it fairly hot, try to tighten it a little bit using this tool.
gwinger
Well-known member
The pex tool only clamps to the pressure and diameter it was designed to. The problem is the white tubing is too large and deforms when using a pex clamp. The proper fitting will solve the problem.
Rene T
Site Team
When you say the white tubing I’m assuming you’re talking about the white tubing in the first picture. That is not tubing. It is actually nylon impregnated clear hose. You usually see this used on the outlet of water tank to the water pump.
I guess the OP needs to tell us what joint is leaking
Ray-IN
Well-known member
Nope; the reason I know is I used my end nippers I trimmed horse hooves with to try to tighten a PEX clamp in our first 5er, all it did was cut the clamp crimp off due to the sharp jaws. Now if one rounded off the sharp part, then the nipper jaws would not close enough.
As they come, the handles are just far enough apart so you don't smash your hands when using them. In fact, when fully closed you can hold both handles in one hand.
I wound up using two drill bits to fit the clamp curve and a set of vice-grips; that worked well.
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