Please help me squash the small fears that I made a mistake!!?

[6x16inside]

Hello All!

I am Laura, single mother of two sons ages 16 and almost 24. I've always had wanderlust, my grandmother was a traveler so I guess I inherited her DNA on that one if thats possible.  We've always moved around a lot for a plethora of reasons, most homes length of stay no longer than 3 years.
Sooooo, for at least a dozen years, the desire to have a motor home grew stronger but simply remained out of reach for a variety of reasons, namely cash.  I knew I could not manage an RV payment, fuel, living expenses, etc. on mine and my sons disability income so I went serious bargain basement craigslist style and found a 92 Holiday Rambler Imperial 37 foot Class A in Garland whose owner was willing to split the payment in half over the course of the month and was tired of storing it. We drove down to see it and other than look it over inside for obvious leaks and hear it run, I didnt ask to and wasn't able to know what I have encountered.  The generator had supposedly been stolen so there was nowhere/way to juice up the batteries and so on.  I guess I could have had her take it to an RV park or something overnight huh?  :
Took the train down (OKC born and bred) to drive it home and with the exception of having to get two jump starts from leaving the headlights on at the fuel pump, she ran like a top even thru the hills outside of Ardmore.
The first thing I realized besides the battery issue was that the speedometer and fuel gauge are not functioning despite the RPM gauge on the same cluster working.  Lighter does nothing, radio, back up camera, etc., nothing so I put my youngest to work pulling and replacing any fuses that were dead.  There are two fuse panels basically side by side, one normal like in a car and the other with more wire leads from I don't know where than fuses.  Fearing some huge electrical issue in wiring alone, I stopped there and went to work replacing tail light bulbs and blinkers and minor interior (re)decorating instead.
I plugged it in shortly after getting home and within mere minutes, a light came on here, the stove hood fan turned on etc. so I am pretty comfortable with the things that are controlled by house batteries working versus the things controlled by fuses not working. 
My next intent is to change the oil and possibly check and drain and replace the coolant.  I don't know everything about vehicles and motors but I gotta say I am proud of what I do know.  Future intent is to take a few really small trips in state, up to OHIO in May, maybe the ocean late summer etc and if things are going well, lease on my rental home will have ended and I can easily move right on into 6 x 16 inside!! 
The title was signed over presumably to the person I bought it from back in Aug of 2014 and it was black tagged somewhere along the line.  DMV quoted a smidge over 800 UNLESS I can get her to deal with the affidavit of title something or other which will drop it to 540 something.
A local RV sales and service shop said they don't generally touch below a 99 because too many problems start popping up and they end up with a bill for more than the unit cost, LOL.  Stopped in at camping world and was barely even acknowledged so won't be returning there.
So anyway, whatcha thank?  ;D ;D

 

[Stephen S.]

Welcome to the RV Forum!!!

Wow! You jumped in with both feet. I wish you luck with all the fixing up you will have.

Jump in here with any questions. Pictures of the problem help us figure out what's going on there.

Now the bad news. You are likely to need new batteries and tires. Ouch$$.

 

[firewall]

Well, I think you should be proud of yourself! We had a very bad sales experience at CW so don't feel bad. You sound resourceful so maybe look for a RV mechanic that works after hours? And of course don't be afraid to ask questions here, lots of knowledgeable people willing to help. Good luck with everything and stay safe!

 

[Isaac-1]

My motorhome is 10 years newer than yours, and I certainly understand the mysteries of past modifications, mystery wires that lead no where,  assuming you or someone in the family has the skills, I would suggest just taking your time, and investigating them one at a time.  Some of the things you may never solve, in my case one of those is why did someone cut into and splice then remove and tape up the splice on a short wire leading from the headlight switch...

 

[Back2PA]

You are likely to need new batteries and tires. Ouch$$.

As suggested first start with those safety items that HAVE to be done, starting with tires. No matter how great they look RV tires should be replaced every 7 years, absolute max is 10. Make sure the brakes are good. Batteries aren't a safety item but as suggested will likely need replacement.


Next biggest item is the fridge. Buy a fridge thermometer, start the fridge, wait two full days and check the thermometer. If the temp's not below 40 you may have a problem and won't be able to safely store food.


Best of luck, hope your dream comes true

 

[Lou Schneider]

Welcome to The RV Forum!

The only thing the generator does is take the place of plugging the motorhome into shore power.  This means it's not essential to having everything else work properly, as long as the RV is plugged into an outlet.

You have three different electrical systems in your motorhome.  The first is the 120 volt AC system.  It's active when you're either plugged into an electrical outlet or when the generator is running.  Since you don't have a generator, forget the second part.  But it does mean the motorhome should work normally when you're plugged into AC power.

120 volts powers the 120 volt outlets, the air conditioners, the 120 volt elements in the refrigerator and water heater, and the converter that makes 12 volts to charge the house batteries and run the rest of the house stuff.

All of the lights, the furnace blower, the exhaust fans, the circuit boards in the refrigerator and water heater, etc. are on the house 12 volt system.  Everything that works without being plugged into power or running the generator is 12 volts.

The third electrical system is the chassis 12 volt system.  It includes the engine alternator and the chassis battery and runs all of the chassis stuff (starting the engine, headlights, wipers, etc.)  It's separate from the house 12 volt system so you can run the house batteries down and still have the chassis battery fully charged to start the engine.

The engine alternator charges the chassis battery, and on most but not all motorhomes also charges the house batteries when the engine is running.  That's the only place the house and chassis 12 volt systems interconnect.

I agree with the others - make sure the safety items are taken care of first.  It's tempting to do all of the interior stuff right away but it's all for naught if the motorhome doesn't run reliably and safely.

 

[Arch Hoagland]

I think you are doing fine! A motorhome wouldn't be any fun if there weren't a few things to work on and worry about. Glad you joined us, misery enjoys company. 

Have you checked the water level in ALL the batteries?

 

[6x16inside]

I think you are doing fine! A motorhome wouldn't be any fun if there weren't a few things to work on and worry about. Glad you joined us, misery enjoys company. 

Have you checked the water level in ALL the batteries?

No.  There is literally a half inch space above the engine battery which sits just slightly above my face at 5'7 and I have ZERO idea how I am going to even replace it at the moment with trashed neck discs, a fusion and upper back debilitating pain with no current pain management.  :'(

Thank you to the others for your replies!!
I was truly afraid I was going to get trashed by other members like on a snake forum when I joined to ask questions about our Boa, LOL

The odo reads 37345 and I am not entirely convinced that it ISN'T correct despite it and the fuel gauge currently not working.  They had replaced 3 tires and at first, I was sure I saw dry rot all around the others but hadn't.  Yes, maybe I should have replaced them before leaving Garland but when you have a place willing to earn your business with a quote of "about $500 per tire " (!! :!!)............anywho.
I honestly think the thing has sat way longer than it was ever driven.  Man! What a waste of the original 102 thousand dollar price tag!

 

[kdbgoat]

Welcome to the site, and congratulations on you new to you coach!
I would suggest you click on the "Library" and "Resources" tab above. There's a lot of good information there. I agree with the others that tires are one of the top safety issues RV'ers face. There is an article in the library that shows how to read the date code if you don't already know how.

We also don't trash members here. You will see us get a bit snippy with each other here once in a while, but we end up apologizing  and get on with the business of helping each other out. Most of the time it's because the written word can be taken out of context as opposed to hearing the same thing being spoken.
I personally don't like fridge thermometers. The fridge is so small, as soon as one opens the door, the temp changes and gives one a bad reading. I use a pocket thermometer in a small glass of water to gives a steadier reading.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-pocket-thermometer-46586.html

$500 a tire? What general area are you located? A member here may know a good place local to you to get tires without getting ripped off.

 

[RedandSilver]

Welcome.

Is this anything like what you have?  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5iE9UCoM6Q

In this video, it shows the "House" batteries down low on the left side.
If you have batteries there, they should be checked for proper water level - IF low add only distilled water to raise to the proper level.

Hope things work out for you.

 

[6x16inside]

Welcome.

Is this anything like what you have?  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5iE9UCoM6Q

In this video, it shows the "House" batteries down low on the left side.
If you have batteries there, they should be checked for proper water level - IF low add only distilled water to raise to the proper level.

Hope things work out for you.

If we added 3 more feet to it, yes.
The engine battery is just absolutely insane on their placement of it and being afraid that maybe it is messed up wiring all around has my inner "you're not good enough" kid screaming aloud.
And a neighbor that keeps "suggesting" things but then not following thru on actually helping or finding me some little wire caps she said she should have that need to be used, LOL
Don't get me wrong, I don't just want it all done for me..........mmmmm yeah i do!! Ha!

 

[John From Detroit]

On that vintage the odds are the speedometer and odometer may be mechanical.. It is fairly easy to check if they are.. (I can do it in under a minute) but telling you how .. Well not so easy

And if it's not working at all there is a very likely reason that take sperhaps 10 minutes for two working together to fix if one is highly flexible (Child level flexability) not so easy if one is 65 years old or older.

NOTE same sized cable runs both.

ELectrical work is my field (Well electroincs by training, Police dispatch is what I did)
Replacing batteries there are two ways to do it.. The easy way and the hard way And oh, a 3rd method (Combo way)  I'v e used all 3

Hard way: go to store, get battery, swap. return old one for "CORE"
Harder: remove battery,,, forggeting which cable goes there first  (Ooops)
Hint, red tape or paint or nail polish on all POSITIVE wries really helps, also if multiple wires on the same terminal.. Tie 'em together when removing.

Easy way: Drive unit to battery store and let them do it..... Often free

Of course on my house batteires it was a 2 man job.. I did part, he did part.


Now did you make a mistake.. YES.. You took too long to jump in  (Not the mistake you were worried aobut)  You will be fine and from the sounds of it you will learn a whole lot working on bring this unit up to full operation... A very good thing indeed.

Oh as for those little wire caps?  Well,, I tend to not use them.  (But then I'm electronics trained and we do a different....superior... method of joining wires).

 

[muskoka guy]

If you live in an area that freezes in the winter, you will have to get informed on how the plumbing system works and how to winterize it to prevent expensive damage. Good luck on your new rv.

 

[6x16inside]

Now did you make a mistake.. YES.. You took too long to jump in   

Oh as for those little wire caps?  Well,, I tend to not use them.  (But then I'm electronics trained and we do a different....superior... method of joining wires).

Jump in?
The wires I speak of are that tube lighting in every window, most with only one to none still working.  Just wanted to clip them off somehow and stick them back thru the hole maybe?

 

[6x16inside]

Hi all, I'm back!!
Whew! It's been a long but fast 8 months!!
Needless to say, I haven't taken any trips other than back and forth to a mechanic (twice) about 20 miles from home, LOL
Got slammed at work and in Oklahoma, temps tend to skip "spring" and go straight to "too darn hot" so for about 2 1/2 to 3 months, she's just sat there in our driveway staring into the north.  :-\
The mechanic got the tune up, oil change and engine battery taken care of and on the way there, my brakes went to the floor and I found out they were utter toast!  It was by the sheer grace of God, my son and I made it back from purchasing it outside of Plano, TX!!  Especially around Ardmore with Honey Creek Pass.  The brake lines literally crumbled between the guys fingers when he crawled under to give a look see at all the major stuff in order to give me a good estimate of serious have to have done things. That estimate led to a return trip a few weeks later for more brake work, shocks, struts, sway bar, etc.
Fast forward to present time and I have been sleeping in my completely remodeled bedroom and pretty much everything else is done inside and could be completely moved into except for getting our newer larger TV hung.
I added insulation panels to two walls, painted, stuffed insulation into all the cracks and crevices I could find inside and below in the basement.
It is a serious freezer in there on the nights we already hit into the 30's back in late Sept and Oct but one small space heater, closing up all the non working dash vents and hanging a blanket all the way across and just behind the driver and co pilot bay took care of the major chill coming from the windshield alone.
I recovered the couch in a really cool way. The fridge had been on for months (for no real reason) and although I didn't officially check it, was just as cold as ours here in the house but then suddenly, it wasn't.  I figured the gravel driveway ground dropped the level just enough to matter considering the hydraulic system is a frightening clump of rust and caked mud maybe.  I know it is super important but figure since I don't have plans to use the propane system, I can make sure I park in real darn flat places and be ok where the fridge is concerned.
At present moment, I am basically stuck having no one to help me figure out battery and generator stuff.  I never did do anything with the two batteries in the bay next to the empty gen bay but the monitor shows them at around 13 at any given time.  I know they aren't any good for running anything were I to unplug the home from our house so I have been beating my head against the wall simply trying to understand what I need in order to run the fridge, 2 space heaters and or a portable a/c unit, 1-2 tv's, charge computers, microwave and the lighting (not all at once of course) and not have to plug in to anything for at least 3 days to recharge.  Seems no one can flat out say "you will need such and such size generator and or x amount of so and so type of batteries"  I am NOT electrically minded at all and being told to read about sine wave and blah blah generator and the power side of life, etc is doing no good.  I recently bought a generac champion something thousand watt generator attached to a frame and wheels with a handle and thought I could just take it off the frame and bolt it to the chassis frame in the gen bay and 5 pages later on another forum and I still barely understand why half say I can and half say I can't. :-\ :-\
Back before it got ungodly hot, I hired a mobile mechanic type person to come out with the intent to walk me thru the water works part of RV life only to find serious leaks in both the galley and bathroom sinks so that got shut down until the heatwave broke and I hired someone to come in and deal with that. Now the only thing that leaks is outside and underneath the sewer bay and from the water storage tank.  Just a very slow leak.
Oh and one of 3 toilet leaks, two I was able to fix myself and the third, I am apparently just going to have to live with.
All that is left pretty much is like I said, generator and battery business, tagging her and new tires.
And I will still come in at just under 16k all total spent (including the 7800 dollar purchase price).
Thanks for reading!!!

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I gather you are planning on an external (portable) generator rather than trying to replace the missing one. Even a used RV genset will be very, very expensive, so a portable makes the most budget sense.  You don't need much genset power until you try to use an a/c or microwave, both of which are power hogs. You can run everything else in the RV on propane or minimal electric, so a 2 kilowatt (2 KW) genset would be more than adequate. Adding even a small microwave jumps that up to 2500-2800, and an a/c pushes it to 3000+. That allows the a/c to cycle on/off at random while other power needs are being met.

You can get a cheap contractor grade genset most anywhere, but they are noisy, heavy and bulky.  I would suggest a portable 3000 watt inverter-type genset, something like the Champion 3100. It's not the best quality unit, but half the price of the top-rated  Honda 3000eui.
https://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Champion-100261-Portable-Generator/p67308.html

 

[6x16inside]

And now I have posted twice and added two photos only to find it isn't uploading/posting my reply.

 

[6x16inside]

These two pics

It won't let me show you the two photos of the big generator I bought thinking I was doing good only to get reamed for thinking I was going to put it in my RV with no problems.
I'm about to be done and am worn out and sick and tired of this crap and I haven't even gotten to go anywhere yet :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(

 

[6x16inside]

When I named my list of items in the rv that will need power when I am not wanting to plug in/pay at a park,
I was told no less than 4500.
This one I bought is was over that and now things like sine wave I don't understand are being brought up.
The generator was ONLY to recharge my battery bank as needed and wouldn't have been disturbing anyone if running while I was driving or parked out of the way somewhere for however long it took to recharge them.

 

[muskoka guy]

Lots of people are on multiple forums. I suggest you dont install the generator into the coach frame. It would be fine to run it sitting on the ground. It will recharge your batteries as well as run most things you want including a couple electric heaters. As you were told on the other forum, these generators are not meant to be ran in a enclosed space without additional venting. The exhaust would have to be modified, as well as the fuel tank removed and piped into the main tank. You dont want to run the genny in an enclosed space with the fuel tank still on it. This would create an explosion and fire hazard. A used rv genny would still be the better option. It can be ran while driving, for such things as air conditioning and heat. It can be started from inside the coach. It would draw from the main tank, so no need to have to carry jerry cans of fuel. Good luck on your  adventures.