Power questions while storing RV

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Fin27

Fin27

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Joined
Sep 16, 2020
Posts
47
Location
Indiana
My RV is going to sit for 4-6 weeks until our next trip and I have it parked where I can plug into 120v shore power. Since I'm normally using 50 amp shore power I'm uncertain if I should do anything different. My main goal is to keep the fridge/freezer running, keep the batteries charged up and also allow the lights to be used when I go in and out for whatever reason. I assume I shouldn't run the AC units but not really sure if thats accurate or not.

I have the power running through my surge protector just in case as usual.

Any advice or tips when storing with 120v shore power would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Marc
 
Heck, i kept my RVs plugged in full time when at home. Only thing you might want to do is check battery water levels a couple of times. With a MH you might also want to go buy a battery tender for the chassis battery as it is not normally charged from shore power.
 
I assume you mean a 15A 120VAC receptacle instead of a 50A 120/240VAC receptacle. Do not attempt to run an air conditioner or other large-draw appliance. The 15A circuit will power the battery charger, fridge, and whatever lighting you use.
FWIW, this will help understand electrical circuits: https://www.myrv.us/electric/
 
Ray-IN said:
I assume you mean a 15A 120VAC receptacle instead of a 50A 120/240VAC receptacle. Do not attempt to run an air conditioner or other large-draw appliance. The 15A circuit will power the battery charger, fridge, and whatever lighting you use.
FWIW, this will help understand electrical circuits: https://www.myrv.us/electric/
Click to expand...
I have ran my a/c on a 15 amp circuit many times. You just have to feel the temperature of the extension cord to make sure you are not using too small of a cord. 12 gauge is preferred but you can use 14 gauge if the run is not too long.
 
donn said:
Heck, i kept my RVs plugged in full time when at home. Only thing you might want to do is check battery water levels a couple of times. With a MH you might also want to go buy a battery tender for the chassis battery as it is not normally charged from shore power.
Click to expand...
A general statement like that is not accurate, as this is model-specific. A good number of motorhomes do indeed charge the chassis battery from the converter.
 
SeilerBird said:
I have ran my a/c on a 15 amp circuit many times. You just have to feel the temperature of the extension cord to make sure you are not using too small of a cord. 12 gauge is preferred but you can use 14 gauge if the run is not too long.
Click to expand...
What is the voltage you measured at the air conditioner while running?
 
My wife usually packs the freezer with meals and keeps condiments and other crap in the fridge that she doesn't want to move to our house fridge (which already has all the same stuff). If we're planning to head somewhere in the next month she just leaves it all in there.
 
I have done and am doing the same thing. Don't want the hassle of trucking stuff in fridge back to house and like to keep plenty of beer in there for outings. I have been told on other sites that you can run into the danger of overcharging and frying your battery unless your camper has a smart charger which I have been told most do not. I am currently considering buying a charger/maintainer from Harbor Freight and using that to keep battery charged instead of plugging in all the time.
 
This is a rather silly question. Why would plugging it in and leaving it be an issue? People leave them plugged in for years. Or am i the only one that is missing something?
 
steveblonde said:
This is a rather silly question. Why would plugging it in and leaving it be an issue? People leave them plugged in for years. Or am i the only one that is missing something?
Click to expand...
If you are, then so am I. My rig is always plugged in at home -- I have a 50 amp pedestal, too, but I still plugged in even before that was installed.

I have been told on other sites that you can run into the danger of overcharging and frying your battery unless your camper has a smart charger which I have been told most do not.
Click to expand...
I don't know about "most." I'd agree with "many," but I'd say that today "most" have a smart charger, though that wasn't true a number of years back.

I am curious as to why you want to keep the refrigerator running. Are you keeping food in it?
Click to expand...
Extra ice (especially when we have company), fridge overflow from the house, prep for the next trip, "just because," is anything else needed? Your question make it seem like it's a crime to do so -- why is keeping it running a problem?
 
Babe2201 said:
I have done and am doing the same thing. Don't want the hassle of trucking stuff in fridge back to house and like to keep plenty of beer in there for outings. I have been told on other sites that you can run into the danger of overcharging and frying your battery unless your camper has a smart charger which I have been told most do not. I am currently considering buying a charger/maintainer from Harbor Freight and using that to keep battery charged instead of plugging in all the time.
Click to expand...
Im not understanding you sorry. The batteries will be just fine no need to be spending money on stuff you dont need.
 
One can wonder, or one can investigate to see what converter they have and if it's OK to leave plugged in for extended periods of time. Being a 2017 it almost surely has a multistage converter. It would take but a minute to look it up and know for sure.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
steveblonde said:
This is a rather silly question. Why would plugging it in and leaving it be an issue? People leave them plugged in for years. Or am i the only one that is missing something?
Click to expand...
I have been told that there is a chance you can over charge and ruin the batteries doing that. Not sure if that is true or not.
 
Babe2201 said:
I have been told that there is a chance you can over charge and ruin the batteries doing that. Not sure if that is true or not.
Click to expand...
If your converter-charger is a modern one, it will be a multi-stage charger that won't overcharge the batteries. Older RVs like my 1996 TT have a single stage converter-charger that could boil off battery water and cause damage. However, I replaced my converter with a multi-stage converter which is an easy DIY project.
 
Our 2006 Mandalay has been plugged in to a 15-amp circuit, 24/7 while in storage for years. No problems.
 
When leaving your RV plugged in to maintain batteries, the float charge should be approx. 13.3 V, no higher than 13.6 or you risk boiling the liquid acid solution out of lead acid batteries rather quickly.
Last winter my battery temperature sensor failed causing the charger to feed them 14.6 volts. My batteries were nearly dry before I caught the failure and disconnected the temperature sensor.
Lead acid batteries liquid level should be checked monthly until you get a feel for how much liquid has disappeared, then extend the check as necessary.
Each type of battery has its own charging specs.
 
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