Propane safety?

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Carl Lundquist said:
A 28 year old furnace.? ?And is your propane tank built in or portable?? ?If built in it is also likely to be 28 years old.? ?Time to get the whole system vetted by a technician.? ? Seriously.? ?In my 10 year old RV, I have had the gas system checked over every 2-3 years by technicians at the local RV shop.

Yes Carl, it is built in and in serious need of some TLC!? Unable to do anything about it at this time, that's why we wanted to bypass it and use portable tanks for now.

RV Roamer said:
Re the furnace: what you may be hearing is the furnace fan running.

I think you may have hit the nail on the head! There's adequate insulation, we added quite a bit when we refurbished, and the ducts are clear of blockage so there is plenty of air exchange. I believe she's just tired and old, like me!? :)

Thanks to all you gentlemen for your inputs. I appreciate it very much!? ;D
 
There is a lot of air restriction merely in the flex tubing that is typically used for ducts in RVs. And sadly it is not uncommon for the furnace to be installed with insufficient outlets, with excess duct tubing or other problems.  When we got our new rig a few years ago, the furnace delivered almost no air fromseveral of the ducts.  A factory rep checked it out and removed almost 10 feet of excess duct tubing and the air flow improved substantially.

The furnace is designed to have the fan continue running after the burner shuts off, so as to remove internal heat. However, it is not expected that the fan will continue to cycle on/off while the burner remains off.  That sort of cycling suggests there is far too much heat build up in the furnace and that the burner shut off because of the heat limit safety switch rather than the wall thermostat.  While that works, it's not a good thing and suggests there is a problem is transferring heat to the ducting/outlets.
 
Yes Carl, it is built in and in serious need of some TLC!? Unable to do anything about it at this time, that's why we wanted to bypass it and use portable tanks for now.

OK, but that should be the number 1 priority for work to be done on your rig.? Number 1 -- it is a safety priority to at least find out if the tank is sound and the system does not leak.? ? There is propane in the tank right now, isn't there?

Using portable tanks leads to another problem.? ?Look at the trailers who for the most part use portable, 7 gallon tanks. Every single one of those rigs has the tanks outside of the living space of the rig.? ? The tanks are secured upright in a framework or in compartments open or vented at the bottom.? ?The valve assembly in portable propane tanks is designed for upright storage and transport.? ?Propane is heavier than air and leaks sink and spread out along the ground.? ?(Propane alarms are mounted next to the floor.)? ? Ventilating above the leak will do little to dissipate it below explosive quantities -- until it explodes that is.

Considering all of the above, I would suggest that it would be best to use the tank swapping arrangements at each camp site.? You will generally find these in hardware stores and Home Depot operations in the vicinity.? ?Do not try to transport tanks in the cabin of your RV except for the briefest of trips and then only if propped upright.? ?Getting delivery of the tanks is safest.

The only time that my propane tanks are in an enclosed space is when I am transporting a tank to be refilled.? ?Then I cap the tank inlet, wedge the tank in the cargo bed of my SUV, open all windows, including the tail gate window and travel to the nearest refill facility.? ?I never, ever, leave a tank in a locked vehicle -- especially on a sunny day.

Follow this url to the Amerigas Propane safety site http://www.amerigas.com/consumer_guidelines.html.

Get that built-in tank seen to.  Manometer tests are not all that expensive.
 
FWIW:
Just purchased a 20lb. Manchester tank with OPD at Sam's Club for $22 plus some change! Just for use when dry camping when it's not convenient to get the big one filled. If you get one, remember that it has to be purged of air before filling. Any reputable propane dealer will know that,. At the same time, tell him to make sure the OPD valve is working properly - simple task - he just lets the system fill until the OPD shuts off the liquid flow.
 
Carl Lundquist said:
OK, but that should be the number 1 priority for work to be done on your rig.? Number 1 -- it is a safety priority to at least find out if the tank is sound and the system does not leak.? ? There is propane in the tank right now, isn't there?

The RV tank is completely empty now, so hooked up the portable one which is outside the rig in a safe spot...and no leaks.? Is working fine so I think we're good for awhile.? ;D? Will have the big tank looked at asap.......don't want to chance blowing ourselves or the neighbors up!? :eek:
 

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