Refridgerator Problems

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Jerrygroah

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Mar 6, 2006
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Location
Mims,Fl, USA (central east coast)
I have searched and found no threads about my particular problem.

When I switch from electric to gas on my fridge it will stay lit momentarily then go out. I have plenty of gas all other appliances work. My 12 volt supply reads 12.86 volts. It make a ticking sound like a clock running for a few seconds then goes out.

I suspect the power control module. Is there any way to test it and the thermocouple? Also could it be the spark/sensing module?

I have a digital volt meter as well as an analog one.

Thanks, Jerry
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The ticking sound is the igniter attempting to light the flame. If it doesn't happen quickly, the control board shuts down the gas flow to prevent a possible explosion. There are a couple  things that could cause this (and this really has been covered many times here in the past - surprised you didn't find it):

1. Incorrectly placed igniter/flame sensor (in later models they are one and the same - older models had separate ones).
2. Spider webs, mud dauber nests or plain old rust & scale in the burner tube. Try running a soft brush around the inside and vacuuming it out.
3. Faulty sensor

Since the controller is trying to light the burner, it is probably working. Can you tell if the burner actually lights and then goes out, or does it simply never light?  Stand outside and watch the burner while somebody else flips the switch, so you can see. If it lights and goes out about 15 seconds later, the sensor is suspect, but if it never lights at all you probably have crud in the burner tube.
 
Gary, thanks for the reply. The fridge burner will light and burn for a few seconds and then go out. It will again repeat the same cycle if the switch is recycled. It just wont stay burning. I have a bright blue flame directed at the thermocouple sensor. I now suspect the spark/sensing module, but would like to test and be sure before replacing the unit. The two modules are very expensive to replace.

Is there any way to test it? Also is there any way to test the thermocouple?

We do not boondock so there isn't much need for the fridge when in a campground. My concern is keeping the food cool while on the road. I do have an inverter. I am now thinking of back feeding the inverter output into the 110 circuit and just operating the fridge this way while on the road. Will this plan work?

Jerry
 
Jerry:

Not counting our planned boondocking trips there are many many times our fridge is on gas. IMHO it would be worth the effort to trace the problem with your gas and get it resolved.

One spoiled refrigerator full of food will more than pay for the repairs. ::)
 
Jerry,
Gary pretty much nailed down your problem. Do you have a separate spark wire to light the flame and a thermocouple (sealed metal tube) running back to the gas valve? Or is it another wire (separate from the spark wire) going back to the control board? There is no good way to test a tube-type thermocouple; you just replace it. If the spark wire also does the flame sensing, the control board is your most likely suspect. What make/model fridge so you have?
 
Karl, I have the Norcold model 6182, ( an old one).

It only has one wire going to where the gas is ignited. It is also connected to the thermocouple.

I also suspect the spark/sensor module, but hesitate to change it due to the cost. Is there a way to test that module while its installed or taken out?

Thanks for the info, Jerry
 
Jerry,
Here is a link to a troubleshooting instructions for your model Norcold:

Norcold 2nd Generation Electronics Troubleshooting. You will probably need to work through the section on the Ignition Control Module.

You can also find a Norcold service manuals HERE

If the igniter/ sensor is not reporting the presence of the flame, it may be the sensor itself. I don't know about a Norcold, but on a Dometic the igniter/sensor is not expensive.  I would not suspect the control board except as a last resort - it is not usually the culprit in cases like yours.
 
O.k. Then it's almost surely the ignitor board, the one where that red wire connects to. Try Dinosaur for a replacement board. Some, not all, boards can be tested by an RV repair shop, but I don't think the testers are able to check the 'flame sense' feature. You may have to get the original Norcold part because I don't see an ignitor board for it, but give them a call and they can give you an answer.  Maybe one of their UIB's (Universal Ignitor Boards) will work.
 
Jerry,
Gary and I posted at almost the same time, and his comments gave me another thought. The connection of the red wire to the ignition coil on the board may very well be able to send a spark, but may be dirty or corroded enough so the microvolt 'sense' current will not pass. Try removing the connection and clean it well. Could be that simple.
 
Karl, I should explain a little further. There are several wires coming out of the spark/sensor module. Two red ones go to the gas valve that gets turned on to furnish a constant gas supply when things are working well. There are also several red ones that connect to the power circuit board.

The one red one that I mentioned goes from the spark/sensor module to near where the gas is burning (flame).

I can take a photo and send it to you via private email, if you send me your email address. I do not know how to post on this web site and my computer wont open the ones everybody posts.

My email address is;[email protected]

Karl,just got your latest post and I have taken the wire loose on the module end and cleaned and I use a copper paste for better conection. That end is clean don't know about the other. I'll give it a try.

Thanks for your links Gary

Thanks for helping, Jerry
 
The one red one that I mentioned goes from the spark/sensor module to near where the gas is burning (flame).
Click to expand...
That's the one we're talking about. It serves to supply both the spark and the flame sense function. The red ones going to the gas valve aren't a concern to us as you do get gas, at least initially. It's the lack of flame sensing that's shutting it off.

If you click on the little blue man under my avitar, you'll see my email address.
To post a picture, Click on the "Additional Options...", and in the "Attach:" box, put the location of where your picture is stored on your computer. You can use the "Browse" button to help you find it - if you remember the name or portion of it. Quite simple once you've done it a few times. :)
 
The little blue man icon will show the profile, the envelope icon will start an email in the default email program.
 
I had nearly the same exact problem with our Norcold and it was the igniter board.  It would spark and then the flame would go right out shortly after like it never sensed the flame.  Changed the board and it has worked great since then.
 
We too had that problem, but it turned out to be crud in the burner tube.  Vacuum it out (or blow it out, being VERY careful not to damage the gas orifice) and try again.
 
First of all thanks to all who responded. After trying all the suggested fixes, I finally had to change the igniter/sensor board. I also changed the igniter/sensor cable. This done the job and now we are go. The fridge works just fine.

Thanks again to all,Jerry
 
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