Removal of analog TV in 2002 Adventurer

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Okay, the TV is removed but the story is worth telling.  As I learned from the board, the trim around the analog TV was removed by taking out 4 screws inside the side cabinets.  That exposed the TV which is on a slight downward slant and held in place by a bar across the top with a bolt hold down on each end.  At the bottom there is just a slight lip on the frame to hold the TV in place.  Yesterday I decided it could not be that heavy and since I had no help I decided to give it a try with due caution to prevent damage. I lined the dashboard with heavy blankets and quilts and covered the cabinet over the engine cover with a pillow.  Then I removed the two bolts on the hold down bar and that made it possible to lift the TV slightly and slide it out.  I had already removed all connections on the rear through an access hole over the dashboard.  When I tried to lift the TV I found it to be very heavy and had very little area to get a grip.  In fact I wound up pushing it back on one side to the point where I could not even get a finger beside it.  So I decided to reach inside the rear access hole and slightly push the TV back forward to the lip where I could start trying to lift it again.  I was sitting on the dashboard during this maneuver and with the slightest push the entire TV went swooping forward like a bullet out of a gun and missed me and the engine cover completely landing on it's bottom front edge and rolling over once to stop on it's side.  Nothing was broken, dented nor was I injured but I sure was shocked to see what had happened.  The old money pit lost on this one and I had no damage to be repaired.  Now to get busy on installing the new TV.  Sure is a lot of wires to be removed including a small round noise suppressor mounted behind the TV.  That is my story and I am sticking to it.  Lesson:  If you have to remove a analog TV from an Adventurer - GET HELP.

By the way I forgot to mention that the speakers on the new 32" Vizio are on the bottom so no special mods for sound will be required. The coach already has the optional sound system with 6 speakers throughout the front of the coach.  Now I have to figure out how to cover the entire hole for the new TV mounting.  It appears that while the width is less than the new TV, the height is more than the new unit so covering the entire opening must be accomplished.

Bill
 
JTsBoss said:
Sorry I ment, I have the surround sound that came with the coach. There are 3 speakers up front 1 in the back by the table and two subs in the wall. I take it you did not have this setup first?
JT

My bad JT. I thought you meant the soundbar. I didn't mess at all with the Winnie sound system and mine only has two speakers in the dash and two over the couch and relciner. The in-dash radio still uses the existing speakers.
 
I'm still in the thinking stage for the completion of the project.  The TV is now out and disposed of.  I have figured out all the connections on the box of many buttons and on our last short trip the cable TV feed worked fine with a temp hookup to the new TV placed on the dashboard and even to the old TV in the bedroom - thanks again to those who told me those color codes on the coax cables.

Question:  There was a noise suppressor on the old TV (externally mounted) and I am wondering if that is something I have to rehook in order to use the speaker selection button (Radio/TV) in the same group with the BOMB and the inverter controls- front right overhead cabinet.

Question:  I have bought a wall mount kit for the TV but in looking at it  out of the box it appears that the TV bars (2) simply hook over the wall mount bar and have a spring loaded hook that comes up to hold the unit onto the wall mounted brace.  BUT this thing appears to be pretty loose when attached together and can even slide in either direction on the wall mounted brace.  Will this take the beating on the road or should I consider installing something like a strip of foam on the back to restrict movement while traveling? 

Also still trying to figure out best way to mount backing board for TV.  Giving consideration to leaving the fiberglass molding on and making board to attach inside of it.  TV is wider than molding but perhaps I can build the wall mount out enough to overcome the additional depth of the molding.  Thanks for any comments.

Bill
 
Bill,

I completely removed the steel cage and it was then easy to fabricate a method to mount TV. Had to make a couple of oak 1 x 2 strips to complete and a panel on the bottom.
 
John Hilley said:
Bill,

I completely removed the steel cage and it was then easy to fabricate a method to mount TV. Had to make a couple of oak 1 x 2 strips to complete and a panel on the bottom.
I see that the cage is completely removable John but think that it also adds some strength to the mount.  Your method is probably what I will need to go to.  Do you have any photos of the completed installation.  Also did you remove the bottom fiberglass molding for the old TV - the one with the light (and mine also has a speaker in it)? That would really be a radical departure for the mounting. And I would need to fabricate a new bottom that goes from cabinet to cabinet.

Bill
 
Bill N said:
...Question:  There was a noise suppressor on the old TV (externally mounted) and I am wondering if that is something I have to rehook in order to use the speaker selection button (Radio/TV) in the same group with the BOMB and the inverter controls- front right overhead cabinet.
Yes, I would use the noise filter (and I think it also prevents ground loops) if you are going to use the Winnie supplied amp.

Question:  I have bought a wall mount kit for the TV but in looking at it  out of the box it appears that the TV bars (2) simply hook over the wall mount bar and have a spring loaded hook that comes up to hold the unit onto the wall mounted brace.  BUT this thing appears to be pretty loose when attached together and can even slide in either direction on the wall mounted brace.  Will this take the beating on the road or should I consider installing something like a strip of foam on the back to restrict movement while traveling? 
I for one wouldn't like the TV and mount jiggling and rattling around but my objection would be for the noise aspect.
 
Bill N said:
I see that the cage is completely removable John but think that it also adds some strength to the mount.  Your method is probably what I will need to go to.  Do you have any photos of the completed installation.  Also did you remove the bottom fiberglass molding for the old TV - the one with the light (and mine also has a speaker in it)? That would really be a radical departure for the mounting. And I would need to fabricate a new bottom that goes from cabinet to cabinet.

Bill

The removal of the cage doesn't lessen the strength of anything and it removes a lot of weight. I will try to find pictures. My mount was very inexpensive and locks in place. To remove it I have to pull on a release. I also mounted a 120 vac receptacle in the space behind the TV and tied it into the receptacle in the overhead cabinet.
 
John Hilley said:
The removal of the cage doesn't lessen the strength of anything and it removes a lot of weight. I will try to find pictures. My mount was very inexpensive and locks in place. To remove it I have to pull on a release. I also mounted a 120 vac receptacle in the space behind the TV and tied it into the receptacle in the overhead cabinet.

I appreciate all the help I am getting on this project.  The forum is a very valuable tool for any project.  John, I received your email with the photos but I get Error 404 on all of the photos when I try to open.  I now think I will remove the cage and go from there.  This will be a winter project.

Bill
 
Bill N said:
I appreciate all the help I am getting on this project.  The forum is a very valuable tool for any project.    This will be a winter project.

Bill

Sounds like you are way over complicating this project. I didn't have the surround system option on my coach so I didn't feel the need to keep it. My CRT to flat screen conversion was an afternoon project. Good luck and I hope to see some pictures of the finished job.
 
penman39 said:
Sounds like you are way over complicating this project. I didn't have the surround system option on my coach so I didn't feel the need to keep it. My CRT to flat screen conversion was an afternoon project. Good luck and I hope to see some pictures of the finished job.

You are probably right Carl.  But with COPD and bad arthritis I can only work at it a bit at a time plus the coach cannot be parked at the house for an extended period.  But I will admit that I am also lollygagging on the whole thing as I just don't feel that physically fit at the moment. But I was happy to get the old TV out and get a look at what is required.  My biggest problem is to decide how to mount the new TV without making it look like some jack arp carpenter pounded it in to the space.  It won't be an afternoon project for me but it will get done.

Bill
 

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