Repair Cost Difference Between C and A

[bhounds]

I know it's hard to estimate Class A repair costs but I was curious just how much different in dollar amounts compared to a Class C? Both have same type tires, same appliances, electrical, plumbing ... just larger tanks, bigger tires in some cases.

So besides being a larger vehicle, what am I missing here between Class A and Class C repair costs?

I know these costs are dependent on age of the rig. I am talking gas engines.

I had a Class C for a short period of time and made some repairs myself. I know in my situation a Class A from 30'-34' would be the correct traveling rig but my main concern is the repair cost for something major. Today I was thinking what would that might be that I wouldn't have with a Class C?

 

[SeilerBird]

I have owned several of both types and found them both very expensive to own.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I doubt if there is much difference between a similarly equipped Class C and Class A. Diesel pushers often cost more to maintain because they have more complex systems and filters, air suspension, etc, but a 31 foot gas class C wouldn't be notably different than a 31 foot gas class A.

However, bigger coaches tend to have larger tires, more slides, and more amenities that can add to overall maintenance & repair costs.

 

[Bob Buchanan]

Have had both an A and a C. My current A is 34' and the one before that was 29'. My Class C was 29'.

Would agree with Gary that the costs are about the same and agree with Seilerbird that both are/can be very expensive. IMO, cost of maintenance should not be a factor in an A vs. C choice.

OTOH, can think of "many" other reasons to pick a A over a C.

 

[Molaker]

One thing to consider is who will work on the chassis.  I found many shops willing to work on a class C chassis, but not so much class As.  This may not be a big problem for planned maintenance, but for on-the-road repairs, the difference in cost can be substantial, not to mention finding someone to do the work.  Tires, too, can be much more expensive for a class A, especially if it has the larger diameter wheels (22.5", etc.).  Class Cs mostly just use 16" LT size tires which are much more common and less expensive.

 

[driftless shifter]

One of the systems that would cost a lot more on a class A gasser would be engine cooling. Water pump, belts, hoses, radiator and fan clutch. All of these are a bear to get at without removing the radiator. 12hrs labor just to remove and replace the radiator. They can be done without removing the radiator, but your working almost completely blind, by feel, laying on top of the engine from inside. That sucks, I know, still sore. Now I have to R and R the radiator anyway, it's plugged up. sigh.

Bill

 

[bhounds]

Thanks for all the replies. They cleared up what my brain couldn't. Now I know why I have been hesitant in buying a Class A.....I have always been concerned with an engine part repair cost or just preventive maintenance. I think I'll go back to my original plan of my 4x4 truck and a trailer, instead of a C or A w/toad. Thanks again for all the replies.

 

[billwild]

I remember trying to replace the spark plugs in my old 1987 class c with the Ford 460 in it. One hour to do 7 plugs, and the 3 more hours for the last one, and even then I could not do it. Turns out you had to loosen the motor mount and the jack up the motor. Who knew. Any motor work on my now diesel  seems just as bad. That is why I have to have the work done for me in a qualified shop.

 

[Dan23]

One thing to consider is who will work on the chassis. 

So far, I've done most of the work on my class A myself, as did the previous owner. Don't most people? Shocks, brakes, tune-up, home repairs, etc.

I paid others to install new roof A/C and an awning, though.

As above, I would not let that unpredictable factor make my decision about which one to buy.

 

[driftless shifter]

So far, I've done most of the work on my class A myself, as did the previous owner. Don't most people? Shocks, brakes, tune-up, home repairs, etc.

I paid others to install new roof A/C and an awning, though.

As above, I would not let that unpredictable factor make my decision about which one to buy.

I've gone a similar route as Dan. if you have limited wrenching ability a C might be a better option. Not many people want to work on an A. A C is familiar, it's a common van cab with a hood and a doghouse.

If you're good with a wrench, you can find a well aged 20 year old class A gasser for well under $10k. Put another 3-5k into it, premptively, replacing all the wear and tear parts that are hard to do. Then enjoy it's golden years, as a vintage ride, ready to cover some ground.

Bill

 

[DearMissMermaid]

One huge advantage to having a Class C is not needing a toad.

That cuts maintenance costs substantially.

The Class C is pretty easy to park and shop or park and sightsee. The doggy goes with me as well as the toilet and kitchen, so even if I am out and about sightseeing, I am not forced into spending money in restaurants, I can just whip up a meal in the galley then continue sightseeing or shopping.

It's easy to exercise the dog along the way, many of the sights I like to visit are pooch friendly anyhow.

He's even learned to go on cart return with me at the stores. He loves this!  It's his reward for waiting quietly in the RV while I shop.

After I unload the purchases, I leash up the dog, then I push the cart all the way back to the front of the store as fast as I can while doggy trots on his leash right beside me. We park the cart then walk back to the RV, which is usually towards the end of the lot anyhow. It gives us both a nice little workout before we drive off again.

 

[Charlie 5320]

I've had several Cs and wouldn't own another. The As are easier to work on for me. I've had chevy and dodge chassis Cs and neither were easy to work on, and I was a LOT younger then. Getting the radiator might be a bit easier on a C, but how often does one need to do that. At least in the A one can sit on the floor and change plugs and wires. Yea water pumps can be a bear, but I just fold an old blanket for the top of the engine. That a ways when I get tired I can just take a nap. ;D ;D

Miss MM I don't need a toad either, length for length a A has a lot more storage. I can also  turn my 30 ft coach around in a shorter spot than my previous 26ft C with out going in the back yard.

 

[driftless shifter]

The water pump, belts and hoses are a bear from up top. For one, even with a folded up furniture pad, laying on the throttle body hurts. Then you better hope you have skills at working blind with everything upside down. Easy to do taking apart, always is. Much harder to get all the bracketry back together. All the accessory brackets have at least one or two bolts or some kind of interference with the waterpump. Sooo the alt and bracket come out easy through wheel well. Drivers side not so easy, even just moving P/S and A/C to the side is a pain. Then there's the occasional metric stuff. I don't think I wanna do it from the top again.
The cooling system is or should be one of the most scrutinized systems when buying an older motorhome. Work the snot out of it on a test drive,find a long hill and drag race up it. If the needle climbs right up to the red, walk away. Assuming most test drives would be lightly loaded with no toad. I made that mistake. Drove around for an hour on highway and surface streets, ran great, had  2k miles on a new re-man longblock. Everything worked, needed brakes, I can do that! Then I really tested it out, got hot. water pump had a drip and never heard fan clutch kick in. fixed that and still hot, new fan clutch still didn't kick in. Radiator is plugged. Dickered with radiator shop got down to $1800 from $2000 plus estimate, including re-cored radiator. Still to much money to install a $500 dollar radiator. Doing it myself, starting today. Oh joy.
Some stuff is easier on a class A than a C. Exhaust manifolds are one, after removing wheels and inner fender wells.
I still feel that, if you don't have DIY skills, a class C will be easier and less expensive than an A to get chassis/drivetrain repaired by most shops. Coach and appliance repairs are most likely similar between the two.

Bill

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

One huge advantage to having a Class C is not needing a toad.

I have to disagree because that's really a size statement rather than C vs A.  A 30-35 foot C-style RV is no more or less likely to "need" a toad than an A of the same size. And there are Class A's as small as 26 feet.

 

[Molaker]

I have to disagree because that's really a size statement rather than C vs A.  A 30-35 foot C-style RV is no more or less likely to "need" a toad than an A of the same size. And there are Class A's as small as 26 feet.

True.  I felt the need for a toad with my 31.5 foot class C and was very pleased when I finally got my Jeep to tow.

I've had several Cs and wouldn't own another. The As are easier to work on for me. I've had chevy and dodge chassis Cs and neither were easy to work on, and I was a LOT younger then. Getting the radiator might be a bit easier on a C, but how often does one need to do that. At least in the A one can sit on the floor and change plugs and wires. Yea water pumps can be a bear, but I just fold an old blanket for the top of the engine. That a ways when I get tired I can just take a nap.  ;D ;D

Miss MM I don't need a toad either, length for length a A has a lot more storage. I can also  turn my 30 ft coach around in a shorter spot than my previous 26ft C with out going in the back yard.

As for repairs and maintenance, most responses have been assuming the owner can and does most of the maintenance.  All well and good, but after "fixin" nearly all my repair needs from automotive to carpentry to plumbing to electrical, I find my physical capacity now limited, but my desire to travel not so much.  So, my statement earlier about finding a shop that is willing to work on a motorhome be it a class C or class A was made from the standpoint that the owner either cannot or does not wish to DIY.  So, from that position, I stand by my statement that finding a repair service for a class C is generally easier than for that of a class A.

 

[Bob Buchanan]

I have to disagree because that's really a size statement rather than C vs A.  A 30-35 foot C-style RV is no more or less likely to "need" a toad than an A of the same size. And there are Class A's as small as 26 feet.

And not much to do with the OP question of the difference in repair costs.

My first longer trek in a MH sealed the deal on needing a toad. Having to break down a rig every time I needed a grocery item or whatever made little sense right away. Then after returning and hooking up again - discovering I forgot an item. Some go with a Class B for that very purpose but hookups are needed regardless of the rig size. So to me, no difference between the ABC's.

 

[Molaker]

And not much to do with the OP question of the difference in repair costs.

My first longer trek in a MH sealed the deal on needing a toad. Having to break down a rig every time I needed a grocery item or whatever made little sense right away. Then after returning and hooking up again - then discovering I forgot an item. Some go with a Class B for that very purpose but hookups are needed regardless of the rig size.

Although not a part of my decision making when I recently purchased a class B, I find I drive my ERA like the family van (with the added advantage of toilet facilities for us older folks).  For our type of shopping, I have yet to find a place I cannot find parking for my 24 footer, although admittedly, I sometimes have to park some distance away, but I need the exercise anyway.  Yes, when camping it occasionally needs hookups, but really only electric if A/C is needed.  Otherwise, the batteries, generator and inverter keep us untethered.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

There probably are more places that will do engine & chassis work on a Class C, but I'm not sure that makes it any cheaper.