Replace Flooring

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I replaced my filthy carpet with a wood like vinyl product that resembles Laminate flooring planks.  It was nice to install, but it is separating now after last winter.
It did the trick, but I am not happy with it.  Next year I will change to a rigid laminate flooring.

It is not easy getting the factory carpet out is it.  Under the walls and everything.

Jason
 
jeverden said:
It is not easy getting the factory carpet out is it.  Under the walls and everything.

I was wondering about that... our LR carpet needs replacement hopefully in the next year, so I'm starting to figure that out at a DIY project.  I should probably start a new thread.  ;)
 
I was lucky, we didn't have the million staples, just a few around the walls.  Now on another home we did, it had the million, what a job.

I used hubbies Dremel tool to cut the carpet as close to the walls as possible, it did pretty good, there are a variety of cutters with it so maybe a different one would work better.  Give one of those a try.  For old old carpet it sure was strong and almost impossible to get out, had been great quality.
 
scottydl said:
I was wondering about that... our LR carpet needs replacement hopefully in the next year, so I'm starting to figure that out at a DIY project.  I should probably start a new thread.  ;)

I just finished installing a vinyl floor in our motor home, so this is all very fresh in my mind.  In our 29' motor home, the process took about a week.

Getting the carpet out from underneath the walls, cubboards, seats, and bed(s) is the most time consuming task of the entire job. With the dinette and some of the cupboards, it was possible to remove the hold-down screws, making it possible to lift it up off the carpet.  I was then able to pull the carpet in and set the dinette (for example) back down on the wood floor. (And, ultimately, on top of the new vinyl -- a much better installation than butting it up to the edge.)

Unfortunately, you can't do that with walls, or floor-to-ceiling armoires.  With those, the challenge is to remove as much carpet from underneath it as possible, so that the new flooring goes a bit beneath the edging.  I tried many techniques, but ultimately it's a job that requires a needle-nose plyers and patience, cuz you just have to pull it out one "grab" at a time. 

Your next challenge, if you want to use a sheet product, is to make a template.  Use heavy "craft" paper that comes on a roll, and duct tape.  Anything less will stretch or shift on you, rendering your carefully constructed template worthless.

I went with sheet vinyl because I didn't want 2,000 little seams to get full of sand and dirt.  In the end, I was able to install the sheet with only a single seam, underneath the bedroom door.  It took a lot of effort, but was well worth it, as it turned out beautifully.  I'll get some pix up on my website in a day or so.

Good luck with the project. 
 
We did not try to get the carpet from under the slides. We cut it close enough to the slides so that we could staple it down securely and used baseboard molding to hide the cut edges. We used an air stapler.

The carpet does not extend under the walls - except for the one interior wall. We used quarter round molding to hide those edges. It does go under the cabinets and again quarter round hid that.
 
stppinz said:
If you had/wanted to replace the flooring in your MH, what would you do? Carpet, Pergo ... any thing else? It there usually a wood sub floor or is it metal?

Thanks again. You guys rock!


The reality of things is that your flooring choice, whether in your home or your motor home, is a reflection of you.  In one's home, there are few factors that stand in the way of finding the look that you want, whereas motor home's angled or rounded cuts, dependency on low weight and higher gas milage, and of course, moving parts (i.e., slideouts, floor platforms, etc.), can all be a factor to finding a floor that merely works in one's home of wheels.

When making a selection of the right floor for you, you should first decide what is more important to you, something soft and comfortable (an escape if you will from the cold and rough outdoors) or something durable enough to stand up to whatever is brought in from the outdoors.  For our customers, the durability of a hard surface is always attractive, as it cleans up easily and it is resilient to almost anything you can throw at it.  Unfortunately, if you have slideouts, many hard surfaces are restrictive to your ability to install such floors all the way under the slideouts (without adjusting the slideout's height totally and completely).  If you can squeeze some hard surfaces under your slideout, many manufacturers of hard surface products wouldn't recommend it.  Each hard surface floor is attributed to what is called a PSI rating (or the amount of pressure in pounds a floor can sustain before it will dent, chip, splinter, crack, etc.).  As such, the mere height of the floor isn't the only factor under a slideout. 

We at Route 66 RV caution our customers away from tile and hardwood as a result, and we recommend High Pressure Laminate and Luxury Vinyl Tile to those in need of a hard surface option.  Unlike tile and hardwood which are extremely heavy and susceptible to all kinds of problems in a moving coach traveling from one humidity level to another, High Pressure Laminate and Luxury Vinyl Tile won't crack or buckle when installed properly.  They are made to expand and contract mildly by comparison to hardwood, and they are much less weight than any other hard surface option.

While there is one particular High Pressure Laminate on the market which is actually warranted for RVs, laminate floors are free-floating, meaning they are clicked together without ever being secured to the subfloor with glue or nails.  As such, the only thing holding them in place are trim pieces (Quarter Round, End Caps, T-Moldings, Reducers, Stair Nosing, etc.).  When you bring this floor of nearly a 1/2" height up to a slideout, a reducer is needed to cap the edge of this surface.  That reducer must cup the top of that floor, increasing the height of that threshold even more.  When all is said and done, the height of laminate could be, and usually is, a deal breaker.  All other laminate products, outside of the high pressure umbrella, are known as direct pressure (such as nearly every material made by Pergo, Quick Step, Armstrong, Fabrica, Shaw, Mohawk, etc.).  The problem with these floors is that the amount of pressure exerted by your slideout will ultimately scratch, scuff, or crack these surfaces.  As such, I would not recommend them.

Luxury vinyl tile on the other hand is a great option in that it comes in both hardwood plank forms or stone-like tiles, and best of all, this low-profile floor gets glued directly to the subfloor.  As a result, you get the look you want in a durable, "softer hard surface" composed with vinyl that is low-profile enough to be installed under any slideout.  If durability is a fear - don't worry about it, as this floor is being installed now in supermarkets, malls, and other high traffic areas due to its ability to stand up to the elements.  Unlike laminate though, which rests above the surface of the floors, the only complex part about luxury vinyl is the floor prep it takes to smooth out your staple-ridden and uneven subfloor before gluing this new floor in place.

Lastly, the quality of carpet has radically changed in the past few years as well.  In the past, carpet, while soft and comfortable, was detrimental to one's ability to maintain cleanliness in a motor home, soaking up spills and dirt tracked in from outside.  Cheaper carpets utilized by RV manufacturers of all qualities in an effort to save money meant fuzzy fiber that couldn't sustain heavy traffic.  Today though, carpet is a very practical option.  With stain-resistant nylons or inherently stain-resistant polymers now on the market, RV owners can experience the softness they desire with a product that cleans up the way it should.  Carpet is now made with a continuous filament construction too.  This method doesn't fuzz up, leaving you with carpet that will maintain its fiber content and last longer!  The cost of these new polymer fibers are also far less than traditional nylons, as they combine either ethanol or plastic recycling resources to sustain low costs versus crude-oil dependent nylon fiber.

Ultimately, there is never going to be a "perfect floor" for every RV, but the right floor for your needs is out there.
 
Buddy Tott said:
There are a variety of 'laminates' on the market, not just those with a wood plank appearance and are installed in much the same way (loose-lay / floating) as 'Pergo' - which, after all,  is just a brand name.  Some look just like tile when laid.  Basically anything sold at DIY or flooring stores can be installed; ceramic tile,  vinyl, carpet, laminates and engineered wood plank.  Vinyl, either sheet or tile,  is probably the most durable and easy to maintain but laminates (Pergo style) are a close second.  It's really just a matter of personal taste and choice.  If you are interested in a wood floor appearance, check out those made from bamboo.  Very durable, reasonably priced and installed like any other laminate.

BT

It should be noted, as an  expert in this field, that Pergo and/or any other "direct pressure laminate" products will dent, chip, crack, splinter, etc. when installed under a slide out in your motor home.  Furthermore, if merely installed in a kitchen area and cut around a slide out, the wear layer of a traditional "direct pressure laminate" is 6 to 12 mil.  This measurement is of the paper construction on the top surface of the laminate, usually adhered to a fiberboard.  Buyer beware though - the thickness of the paper on a laminate is the most important part of the whole floor.  If the paper scratches, dings, etc., what difference does it make how thick the fiberboard is underneath it?

The best product on the market, and one that we only use in motor homes requiring laminate, is Wilsonart.  Wilsonart is the best "high pressure laminate" on the market.  Unlike the other Pergo, Quickstep, Fabrica, etc. options out there, Wilsonart is composed of 8 layers, compressed together under extreme pressure during the manufacturing process.  The top layer alone combines either a 17 mil or 45 mil construction with aluminum oxide to truly be the most durable laminate on the market.  It's base grade called "Classic" starts at that 17 mil paper level and the "Estate Plus, Red Label, and Professional Studio" options are all 45 mil constructions.  Over the past 34 years we have installed flooring in RVs, Wilsonart is the only product that is fully warrantable in a motorhome for wear, stain, fade, and water damage - a claim no other laminate products have yet to boast.

So, know the quality of your selection before you buy it.  By selecting the right laminate for a motor home, you will experience a lot less headaches down the road.
 
Great post! Great Info! So, where do you find Wilsonart, as you described it?  Tks again for sharing your obvious wealth of information on this subject.
 
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