Replacing 2004 National Dolphin LX Refrigerator
- Thread starter Princess1
- Start date
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Larry N.
Well-known member
Most any one that fits into the same space, but, unless you strictly run it plugged in to shore power (or run your generator), you'll need a good inverter and many extra batteries for the inverter to have enough juice to run the fridge for a while, since propane operation is out.
Lou Schneider
Site Team
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2005
- Posts
- 13,635
Energy Star rated home refrigerators use about 1 kilowatt-hour of electricity per day. That's about how much energy you can withdraw from a pair of golf cart batteries and still have a little left over to run a few lights, etc. without drawing the batteries below the 50% safe discharge level.
Four golf cart batteries are pretty much the minimum you should consider to run an electric refrigerator and they will give you about two days of boondocking time.
Then you'll have to recharge the batteries, by either by running the generator or plugging in to power.
Solar panels can supply additional power throughout the day, if you have enough panels they can keep the batteries fully charged on their own. If you have fewer panels they will contribute part of the power you use, extending the time it takes for the batteries to discharge.
Four golf cart batteries are pretty much the minimum you should consider to run an electric refrigerator and they will give you about two days of boondocking time.
Then you'll have to recharge the batteries, by either by running the generator or plugging in to power.
Solar panels can supply additional power throughout the day, if you have enough panels they can keep the batteries fully charged on their own. If you have fewer panels they will contribute part of the power you use, extending the time it takes for the batteries to discharge.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
To get a more specific answer, identify what "original Norcold" you have. We don't all know how each and every RV was equipped!
There are three key measures of what fits. Obviously the opening has to be wide enough & tall enough, but depth is also a concern. RV fridges are shallow, so "cabinet depth" residential units are sometimes necessary so they don't stick out too far. Finally, sufficient space for the door(s) to swing out and/or drawer to open is needed. That's mostly determined by what is opposite the fridge location. Once you determine the size and style of fridge that fits in the space you have, you then need to figure out how to get it inside the coach. It may go through the entry door if fully stripped down, but sometimes a window or even a windshield has to be removed.
Just what works best in your coach will depend on the interior layout and what fridge you now have. Get out that tape measure and go to work!
I replaced a Norcold 1200 with a GE 14.5 cu ft top freezer model, standard depth. The controlling factor for my install was the door opening swing. I had room for a wider and taller fridge, but was short on depth & swing because there was a pull-out pantry across the aisle from the fridge.
There are three key measures of what fits. Obviously the opening has to be wide enough & tall enough, but depth is also a concern. RV fridges are shallow, so "cabinet depth" residential units are sometimes necessary so they don't stick out too far. Finally, sufficient space for the door(s) to swing out and/or drawer to open is needed. That's mostly determined by what is opposite the fridge location. Once you determine the size and style of fridge that fits in the space you have, you then need to figure out how to get it inside the coach. It may go through the entry door if fully stripped down, but sometimes a window or even a windshield has to be removed.
Just what works best in your coach will depend on the interior layout and what fridge you now have. Get out that tape measure and go to work!
I replaced a Norcold 1200 with a GE 14.5 cu ft top freezer model, standard depth. The controlling factor for my install was the door opening swing. I had room for a wider and taller fridge, but was short on depth & swing because there was a pull-out pantry across the aisle from the fridge.
Rene T
Site Team
Something to keep in mind is whether the condenser is on the bottom or the back. Last year, I installed a fridge and I looked for one specifically with the condenser on the back. The reason is that I was able to seal the top, bottom and sides with as much insulation that I could stuff in the space. This keeps the cold/heat out and also any bugs. Natural convection will occur on the backside to rid of the condenser heat through the access doors and the roof vent.
If the fridge you buy has the condenser on the bottom, you need to keep the bottom open (front and back) so cooling will take place. The problem with that is now you'll get cold air in through the outside access doors and you'll also need to put screening on the access doors to keep bugs from getting in and eventually inside your rig.
IMHO, this is just something to think about when looking for a residential fridge.
If the fridge you buy has the condenser on the bottom, you need to keep the bottom open (front and back) so cooling will take place. The problem with that is now you'll get cold air in through the outside access doors and you'll also need to put screening on the access doors to keep bugs from getting in and eventually inside your rig.
IMHO, this is just something to think about when looking for a residential fridge.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
The first sentence is a fact. The second is a matter of how you choose to install. There is certainly no requirement to leave the an opening for air & critters to get in. Just seal it off. Let it circulate air from the interior of the RV, same as in your kitchen at home.
johnaye
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2016
- Posts
- 273
I have been following this issue on another forum. Several people there have replaced a Norcold 1200 with samsung counter depth refrigerator. Just check the measurements before you do the replacement. Also think about how you are going to get the old unit out and the new unit in. On my MH I believe it has to go out and in a window as the unit will not fit through the door.
DearMissMermaid
Well-known member
Many reviewers have used this Avanti to replace their RV refrigerator as apparently it's pretty darn close in size. Sells on Amazon, or find one locally. Can read what others have to say about it here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D1SZNO6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1C6T90UH01EMT&coliid=I1P7H9JX0EQJRF&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=recreationalvehicles-20&linkId=eab424b3b7c40877d7d0b31de88bf13b
Danby also makes one that same size. I had a Danby in the Caribbean for a bar alcove.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010WWIZA2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1C6T90UH01EMT&coliid=I318AHKNC0KS7D&linkCode=ll1&tag=recreationalvehicles-20&linkId=0d8bd0b1bba9624c3c71258ce997fa44
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D1SZNO6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1C6T90UH01EMT&coliid=I1P7H9JX0EQJRF&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=recreationalvehicles-20&linkId=eab424b3b7c40877d7d0b31de88bf13b
Danby also makes one that same size. I had a Danby in the Caribbean for a bar alcove.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010WWIZA2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1C6T90UH01EMT&coliid=I318AHKNC0KS7D&linkCode=ll1&tag=recreationalvehicles-20&linkId=0d8bd0b1bba9624c3c71258ce997fa44
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Thanks everyone for taking the time to answer my question. The Norcold model # is 1200 LRIM. It's 64" high, 33" wide & 27" deep. Looks as if as if a side window will have to be removed to transfer the old refrigerator with the new one. Appreciate your help! Again, thanks!!
Rene T
Site Team
Princess1 said:
Even if you take the doors off?
HueyPilotVN
Well-known member
I replaced my 1210 with a Fridgedare that I got for a terrific price on sale at Lowes. It was about $500 and even came with a free ice maker and was stainless.
I bought two and put one in the garage as a overflow storage for drinks and such.
It fit thru the entrance door after removing the refer doors and the delivery guys from Lowes carried it in the coach. I did tip them.
Here are a few pictures and a link to the post about my install.
http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,106654.msg960158.html#msg960158
I bought two and put one in the garage as a overflow storage for drinks and such.
It fit thru the entrance door after removing the refer doors and the delivery guys from Lowes carried it in the coach. I did tip them.
Here are a few pictures and a link to the post about my install.
http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,106654.msg960158.html#msg960158
