Resealing

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Buckeye4692002

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2016
Posts
65
Location
Chicago, IL
Hello all,

I'm getting ready to reseal my coach (Camping World wanted $3400 to do it, so I decided to give it a try).  This will be my first attempt at sealing a coach.  If any one has tips / tricks / suggestions I would appreciate them!

I've contacted the manufacturer to get their recommendation for products to seal the seams & roof (Dicor self leveling & non-leveling).  Then contacted Dicor to get their best practices for their products (firm brush, clean with alcohol not acetone, blow out w/ compressed air).  I have my plastic scraper & heat gun for removal of the old.

What am I missing?

Thank you in advance for your help!

J
 
No need to remove the old unless it's at a point where it's falling off. If it looks OK, just go right over it.
 
Agree that there is no need to remove the old unless its in very poor condition.  Dicor makes a good product for cleaning the roof areas to be resealed (if that is on the itinerary).  $3400 is a joke.  It is definitely a good DIY project.  Plus you will get to inspect everything for yourself instead of relying on CW min. wage employees.
 
Does "re-seal" mean just replacing/repairing the lap sealant on seams and openings, or are you laying a new rubber (or whatever) roof membrane?  I can't imagine even CW charging $3400 just for replacing caulking (lap sealant). Leaks are usually in the seams, not the roof membrane, and the membrane should last 15-25 years.
 
if it's just caulk and sealant around openings and seams nothing beats 3M 5200. You need to have 111 trichloromethane (spelling) and acetone handy for clean up. I do suggest removing the old caulk they make a tool for it and it really helps. I can see $3400 if they do a thorough removing windows, vents, AC and old caulk etc. To think about it that's a good price
 
A good ladder, old clothing, surgical style gloves, cleaning/wiping rags, a good caulk gun, acetone to wipe off caulk where you don't need it and some time and patience. Remember that when done it will have "old" caulk and new and might look a little funny till the new stuff gets dirty. Also, a few pictures of the roof and areas you are fixing so that in the event you go to sell it and the new buyer asks why you did it, you will have pictures as proof it wasn't something larger than what it was. Lazy buyers at time will have the "it it ain't broken" mentality and could be suspicious without pictures.
 
Triple Slide Jayco said:
A good ladder, old clothing, surgical style gloves, cleaning/wiping rags, a good caulk gun, acetone to wipe off caulk where you don't need it and some time and patience.

I don't know if it would be wise to use acetone up on your roof. I'd be concerned about spilling it on the rubber membrane and the acetone eats it up.
 
Gary RVer Emeritus said:
Does "re-seal" mean just replacing/repairing the lap sealant on seams and openings, or are you laying a new rubber (or whatever) roof membrane?  I can't imagine even CW charging $3400 just for replacing caulking (lap sealant). Leaks are usually in the seams, not the roof membrane, and the membrane should last 15-25 years.

No, we wouldn't be putting down a new roof material.  This was just for the seals on the seams, around the A/C units, vents, etc.  They price at .8 hrs. labor per ft. @ $123 hr.

Thank you to everyone!  I appreciate all the suggestions!
 
I just got a quote from RV Armor to replace my roof for 130.00 a running foot.  Lifetime warranty and they send a crew to you.  Something to consider.
 
I just had my roof inspected and resealed in several places, primarily seams. I paid the park handyman $40. He did install a cover on the black tank vent at the same time!

Ernie
 
use eternabond one time and be done. less than $200.00 in material plus 3 very easy hours to install. amazon or most rv dealers including c.w. carry it and the roller and prep.
 
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