Residential Refrig Install-Happy days are here again.

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Terry A. Brewer said:
.....So far I've just duct taped the ventilation holes on the access panel but I'm going to add insulation to the back & top cap.

How will the compressor get ventilation if you close the access panel and insulate the top vent?  Our refer in the house moves a lot of air out the back when it is running. Sucks it in the front at floor level and blows it out the back.
 
Don

Our Yuma house refrig is completely built in with no rear access panel or chimney top & works fine.

Refrigerator install instructions call for 1/2" on each side & top & 1" in back of refrigerator I have much more than that on my installation.
 
Terry A. Brewer said:
Rocky

>>As for the durability, my tech mind was thinking about the refrigeration unit unit itself.  The compressor particularly.<<

Coach builders have been putting residential refrigerators in their all electric coaches since the 90's. i follow several high end coach forums & can't remember the last time I heard of someone complaining about them.
Thanks, Terry.  That's always been a question with me, sounds like it's simply not an issue.  Goooooood.  When/if I have to replace one, it will be a residential unit supported by a genny when we dry camp. 

I've experimented with temporarily adding 2 inch polystyrene insulation to my house refer and I can get a few more cold hours out of it, when the electricity is out...  As long as it doesn't develop into a squeeeeeek, might be appropriate for an RV? 
 
Just to get rid of the two holes (one on the roof and the other outside) seems to me to be a good reason to go to a residential one. Closing up that bug hole on the side where I removed a frog! Tiffin has had it for an option for a while.  Hope others start offering it. Thanks Terry.
 
Most mfg'e have residential refers as an option, or standard on higher end units.  Typically, from the mfg you get extra batteries and an extra inverter.  I haven't seen it available on any gas coaches yet. 

 
I've pulled the old RV fridge out in mine and I can't wait to get that big hole closed up and the new residential fridge in there... There was one piece of insulation wedged in beside the old fridge that kept out the cold/heat from the outside.. and it didn't even come close to filling in the gap. When that's closed, I think it will be a lot easier to heat and cool the RV..

I haven't quite decided yet the best way to close that hole.. I'd love to see some pics and hear how others have done it..
 
Scott

>>I haven't quite decided yet the best way to close that hole.. <<

I'm going to put some rigid insulation on the back of the removable outside vent & pack some loose batting around the refrig so I still have access to the water turn off valve , solenoid for the ice-maker & water dispenser, & compressor motor. 
 
Are you still happy?  Do you have recommendations now that you have been using this for almost a year?  We are looking into replacing our Norcold.  Where we can do this while full-timing matters as much as cost.  Thanks in advance for your input

 
BillandFran said:
Are you still happy? 

Yes..... It works perfectly.  I WOULD NEVER HAVE A RV REFRIGERATOR AGAIN

We have done weeks of dry camping & have only had to increase generator run time by 1-2 hrs.

If Betty sees this thread I'm sure she will also have a positive opinion.
 
BillandFran said:
Are you still happy?  Do you have recommendations now that you have been using this for almost a year?  We are looking into replacing our Norcold.  Where we can do this while full-timing matters as much as cost.  Thanks in advance for your input

Bill and Fran,

I am VERY happy with our residential refrigerator.  I had no idea just how much more I would enjoy it.  The capacity alone  helps so much when we are on the road for  6 to 7 month s at a time.  I can fully stock the frezzer now.  His ice cream is  hard and I have lots of room for produce in it.  We had Davis Cabinets in Junction City,  Oregon do the replacement.  We had quite a bit of  cabinet work to be redone. I lost a couple of big drawers under the  frig.  They are now little  flat drawers. Ken and Sheila had theirs done at Oregon Motorcoach in Junction City, Oregon.  We were all able to live in it while the replacement was made.  We did have a cooler for cold milk during the process. 
Betty
 
skyking4ar2 said:
Guess I will have to add this to the list of things I want to talk to you about in Moab since we left Kerrville.  Can you be bribed with pizza and ice cream?

If he can't, I can.

BB
 
Just a question.  What keeps the doors latched?  Does that model have a latching door?
 
We have a Maytag residential that came in our unit and it has locking doors.
 
There's a rule that refrigerator door latches cannot resist more than a moderate force - so a child can't get locked inside an abandoned refrigerator.  Even if the door has a latch, it can't be very strong.

I had an apartment sized G.E. refrigerator in my Arctic Fox trailer.  I started out using a bungee cord to hold the door closed, but soon found out the standard magnetic strips by themselves held the door closed about as well as the old Norcold with it's door latch.
 
Lou Schneider said:
but soon found out the standard magnetic strips by themselves held the door closed about as well as the old Norcold with it's door latch.
Note that if you ever get the rubber seals with the magnet replaced that the magnets are in only three sides of the rubber seal and not the fourth side.  And that you should ensure that the non magnet edge is on the hinge side.    Yup, it's called experience.  Of course these days a fridge is highly unlikely to outlast the rubbers.  :)
 

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