Residential refrigerator conversion

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HairyWBush

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Joined
Jul 1, 2018
Posts
18
So I have this midsize fridge that's been waiting all year to go into the wall and replace the Dometic Fridge. I forget exactly what I was told originally, so I'm here. I'll have to come up with something to keep it locked down, but what do I need to remove, add in, or anything to get this fridge to run properly in the side of the rv? This is in a 2005 KZ 5th wheel.
 
You're likely going to have to remove some facia boards/trim to get the old one out - exactly how many and the level of difficulty will depend on your RV's design. I don't know how your current fridge is secured, but it's probably screwed into a wood frame. You'll need to cap off the propane line - won't be needing it anymore.

I have no idea how much wood-working will be needed to get the new fridge in, secured and looking nice, but make sure you don't install new facia boards or trim too close to the fridge's door frame. If the front of the fridge is flush, or nearly flush with the trim, the doors may hit it when they're opened.

You'll need an inverter to invert 12 volts to 120 volts, because res fridges only run off AC power. The size of the inverter will depend on how much power the fridge uses. Don't go overboard here, modern fridges are pretty efficient, and big inverters consume more power and need more battery capacity.

I don't know how much battery capacity you have now, but if you plan on boondocking, you may need to increase the AH capacity of your battery bank. Res fridges always need 120 volts to operate. If you're always plugged into shore power, and rarely boondock, you may not need more AH capacity.

Kev
 
Yea I won't be too worried about an inverter or boondocking. I am preparing to sell this thing early next year. just want to get everything done by the time it needs to go. there should be an outlet in this viscinity?
was the propane line all? is there something for a vent?
 
An LP fridge needs AC power when it's running on AC mode, so there will be an AC outlet that it's plugged into, somewhere behind it. That outlet should be accessible by removing the fridge's outside access panel. Your res fridge should be able to use that outlet.

Our res fridge has no vent per se, but it sits about 3" from the back wall for airflow. I now understand that you're trying to get everything working before you sell the RV, but if you're installing an AC only res fridge, and there is no inverter in the trailer, the fridge will not operate unless the RV is plugged into shore power, or a generator. It won't operate while it's being towed, or when camping off-grid.

Kev
 
all you need is a 120 volt supply (outlet) plus a angle clip on the floor in front and another on the rear top to keep it from moving when traveling

jack L
 
Damn sorry for the late reply to this.
I'm curious what fitting(s) I may need to block off the propane line
 
The propane line is typically connected to the fridge with a standard brass female flare fitting. A matching male brass plug should be available in the gas fittings section of better hardware stores like ACE or True Value. Local independent hardware stores are also usually a good source.
 

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