RV Flooring Options

[SharpestJim]

This is sort of an "add-on" thread to my earlier water damage post:

To repair the water-damaged area, I removed about 30 square foot of carpeting and probably 40-50 square feet of vinyl including that which was installed under the carpet. I replaced a section of subfloor about 4'x2' with real 3/4" plywood. We're just about ready to put things back together and need to figure out what to use for replacement flooring. Except for a small tile project in my home, I've never done flooring of any kind. My wife found a Stainmaster vinyl plank at Lowe's that she liked. But, apparently, you cannot install these "floating" floors over the cr*p OSB that trailer manufacturers use for subfloors.

Do I just look for a color of cheap rolled vinyl that the Mrs can live with and put that down?

As always, any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[robertusa123]

That's what I did.    Stay away from the peal and stick vinle squares

 

[SharpestJim]

That's what I did.    Stay away from the peal and stick vinle squares

Sounds good, Robert. Thanks very much!

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Who says you can't install the vinyl plank?  A decent brand can certainly be done, either floated or glued down. Or laminate or engineered wood or even hardwood, if the budget runs to that.  Most any flooring type can be used if you do quality prep beforehand and work carefully as you lay it.

I would not recommend any "peel & stick type", nor any of the cheap grades of vinyl plank or tile. It's not a lot of square feet and the better grades install better, last longer and stay where you put them better. If you want a good vinyl plank at a not too high price, look at something like Allure Ultra (Home Depot). It's thick enough to have an interlocking edge and looks great.

Glue onto OSB requires at least a primer/sealer first or the stuff will slip around after a few months. Floating over OSB does not, but it's still a good idea. OSB is crap in moist areas.

Sheet vinyl is an alternative, but harder for an amateur to lay properly. Takes some experience and skill with a cutter to get it right. But don't get fooled into thinking all sheet vinyl is crap - far from it. Look at the samples available at Lowes or a flooring store and you will find some very nice (and rugged) stuff once you get past the 59 cents/sqft stuff.

 

[HueyPilotVN]

Here is a post showing how I replaced the flooring with laminate planks.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,69841.msg636238.html#msg636238

Good Luck with whatever you choose to do.

 

[Rene T]

Here is a post showing how I replaced the flooring with laminate planks.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,69841.msg636238.html#msg636238

Good Luck with whatever you choose to do.

Bill, I believe you said you put the foam under the flooring. Have you noticed any issues with the flooring being too soft and maybe the joints coming apart?  I think I read someplace where they don't recommend using foam.

 

[HueyPilotVN]

It is actually called soundproofing and it has an adhesive on the side that contacts the floor.  It is made to go under the planks.

I have had no problem with it and I do believe that it helped to control the transmission of any noise.  It seems as quiet as the carpet and tile that was there before.

It is not very thick.

 

[grashley]

I have installed laminate in several rooms, but only in stix & brix.  Foam under the laminate was usually required to provide a surface on which to float and for sound insulation.  The exception is one that had the foam already installed on the back of the planks.

This should work well in the camper.  As Gary said, avoid the cheap stuff.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Foam or rubber underlayment sheeting is widely sold/used with laminate. It varies from around 0.100" to 0.187" in thickness. I've not ever heard of even a thick foam causing the interlock to break open, but I suppose that is possible on the cheaper grades of flooring with crappy edge locks.

There is surely too wide a variety of under-sheeting and laminate/plank products to generalize whether "foam" is a problem or a feature.

 

[Rene T]

Foam or rubber underlayment sheeting is widely sold/used with laminate. It varies from around 0.100" to 0.187" in thickness. I've not ever heard of even a thick foam causing the interlock to break open, but I suppose that is possible on the cheaper grades of flooring with crappy edge locks.

There is surely too wide a variety of under-sheeting and laminate/plank products to generalize whether "foam" is a problem or a feature.

The vinyl planks that Bill was talking about if fairly thin. Maybe around 1/8" thick. I was concerned that if there was foam under the planks, there may be a tendency to split at the joint if some one with high heeds stepped on the joint.  Maybe I'm just overthinking this.  :

 

[rvpuller]

This is true if you use the cheap crap that you came get at the big box stores but if you buy the high quality OSP from lumber yards that supply quality contractors it's not the case and I would take it over the plywood that isn't nearly the quality of years last.

Denny

 

[RRAM]

Personally I would go with vinyl planking  with pressure sensitive glue.  I think it handles moisture change and temp change much better then actual laminate flooring.  Feels better to walk on as well.  But like anything you get what you pay for and the products I have used are mid to high and when on sale is even better.

 

[denmarc]

This may be an idea I was planning to research in the Spring due having some vinyl floor damage myself.

There apparently is a vinyl product that's available that is installed like laminate. Only thinner than laminate. This is the reason I might be interested in this product due to the fact that the sheet vinyl in my kitchen/dining area needs to be thin enough for the slide to glide over without issue.
My understanding is that this product has self sealing edges and is waterproof. I know nothing more about it except I believe it's available at one of the big box home stores.

Might be something to check into.