rv interior light work on AC not DC. Coach batteries not charging.
- Thread starter acramer
- Start date
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Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
The amount of charge is controlled by the converter, not the bcc. The bcc handles disconnects and timing, ie which battery gets charged.
My Battery Charger/Converter says its a dual voltage charger/converter. It say The new dual voltage control on the POWER SOURCE gives the customer the advantage of having a higher charge voltage (14vdc) for heavy duty or quick charge use and a safe float voltage (13.2vdc) for long-term float use. There is a terminal block at the end of the converter that you set to the one you want... The default is the 13.2 setting which you see on picture 3 of my 3 pictures... So does that mean i can overcharge my batteries since im always putting out 13.2volts to the chassis and coach batteries while hooked to 120? I guess im not sure what they mean by a safe float voltage...... As of now everything is reading right around 13.2.....
13.2 volts is not sufficient to OVERCHARGE your batteries. In fact, 13.2v is considered the minimum constant float voltage to maintain a fully charged battery.
The BIRD circuitry, we discussed earlier, has a 13.2 volt threshold level that it must sense to activate/deactivate the isolation/charge solenoid at the correct time.
If you don't feel confident, at this point, that you have isolated the problem, or don't feel confident in replacing the components, I suggest taking the coach to a reliable RV electrical technician.
Good luck with it.
The BIRD circuitry, we discussed earlier, has a 13.2 volt threshold level that it must sense to activate/deactivate the isolation/charge solenoid at the correct time.
If you don't feel confident, at this point, that you have isolated the problem, or don't feel confident in replacing the components, I suggest taking the coach to a reliable RV electrical technician.
Good luck with it.
I now will start by changing the isolation relay and put all wires back and go from there.. thanks for all your help.. One last thought -- If i didnt do anything except get my generator and tag axle wires hooked correctly... would i be ok???
[quote author=acramer]
One last thought -- If i didnt do anything except get my generator and tag axle wires hooked correctly... would i be ok???
[/quote]
I'm not sure what you mean by this question.
I wouldn't stop until I got everything working again as it was designed to work.
Many people never use the wall switch to disconnect their batteries, so, could you leave it with the wires moved to the same terminal? Sure, it's your choice.
Some folks have also moved the wires on the isolation solenoid, and continue to operate that way indefinitely. I wouldn't recommend it.
One last thought -- If i didnt do anything except get my generator and tag axle wires hooked correctly... would i be ok???
[/quote]
I'm not sure what you mean by this question.
I wouldn't stop until I got everything working again as it was designed to work.
Many people never use the wall switch to disconnect their batteries, so, could you leave it with the wires moved to the same terminal? Sure, it's your choice.
Some folks have also moved the wires on the isolation solenoid, and continue to operate that way indefinitely. I wouldn't recommend it.
ok -- mostly good news... I replaced the isolation relay and put all wires back... I now am charging my chassis battery at 14.3 when the engine is running only.. When hooted up to shore power i get a reading of 13.15 for my chassis batteries.. So that all looked good.. Now the coach batteries im getting 12.80 on both starting engine and shore power... I checked voltages on isolation relay and get pretty close to 13.2 on both large terminals and on the right hand side of the disconnect switch... but i only get 12.80 on left side of disc switch... Does this mean i may have a bad disconnect swich too?????
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Hard to imagine why you would show a steep voltage drop across the relay unless it is actually an isolator and has diodes in it. In that case, a voltage drop of about 0.5 volts is typical. I don't have the time or inclination to go back and study the earlier pictures to see if I can tell, but it is an avenue you could investigate.
acramer said:
acramer, we had already determined, several replies ago, that there was a problem with the disconnect solenoid (or the controlling switch).
I am pleased that the isolation/charge solenoid replacement was a success.
Since you have never acknowledged reading (and understanding) the document I referred you to, there's nothing further that I can help you with. Good luck with it all.
I am having this exact same problem, - - all of my 12v widgets work on AC but not DC. My generator also will not start. There is also an ignition AUX switch up on the dash, but of course it would not start the engine. I wasn't surprised, but had to check. My coach batteries for my Winnebago Class C are located under the step at the door, as is the Intellitec relay that disconnects them. There is a switch on the wall that allows me to shut them off or turn them on. When I flip the switch to "off" I hear the relay click. It is a very distinctive sound. When I flip the wall switch to "on" - - nothing. I changed the two 5 amp fuses on top of the relay first. I read that the batteries must have at least 10.5v for the relay to operate, so I checked, and I had wildly fluctuating voltage down to zero under heavy 12v load. (I was running 12v fans and I am guessing the converter couldn't keep up with the demand I was placing on the batteries.) I removed all the 12v loads yesterday, kept light usage to a bare minimum to the best of my ability to try to allow the batteries to charge and the batteries are now at about 9.56v, so I hope that means they are at least trickle charging.
I cannot perform the "in use" test on the relay, because it seems to be stuck in the "off" position. Right now I am playing a waiting game to try to allow the batteries to get some more charge on them. If I am lucky that will solve the whole problem!
But acramer, I cannot seem to view your pictures, which might be helpful to me in solving this problem. Otherwise, thanks for a helpful thread!
I cannot perform the "in use" test on the relay, because it seems to be stuck in the "off" position. Right now I am playing a waiting game to try to allow the batteries to get some more charge on them. If I am lucky that will solve the whole problem!
But acramer, I cannot seem to view your pictures, which might be helpful to me in solving this problem. Otherwise, thanks for a helpful thread!
kentL
Active member
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2009
- Posts
- 33
Opens and displays properly for me. Its a standard pdf document.
kentL said:
I realize it is a pdf document. I also realize that it has an embedded font error and is not displaying properly.
Never mind. I found it myself. This one works without display issues. http://intellitec.com/PDF/5300635.100.pdf
