rv leveling

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jimmy87903

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May 6, 2015
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I am thinking about ditching my many wood block leveling boards on my travel trailer and going with a camco tri-leveler.My only concern is with my 2x10 boards that I am currently using I get the level support on both axles at the same time,on the tri-leveler I can only pull one axle on it to get my unit level.I don't have room between tires to use two.Just wondering if more pressure on one axle is ok?I am thinking with the stabilizer jacks down this has got to help on the lighter axle,but the trailer weight on that side is still mainly on one axle,I would go with the plastic stackable blocks but they are very costly and takes many to achive several inches in height.Any opinions would be appreciated.Thx
 
I think you should give Andersen levelers a look as well. https://www.andersenhitches.com/Products/3604--camper-leveler.aspx

I have no experience with the Camco levelers but I can tell you that I am 100% happy with the way the Andersen levelers have worked this season.
 
lone_star_dsl said:
I think you should give Andersen levelers a look as well. https://www.andersenhitches.com/Products/3604--camper-leveler.aspx

I have no experience with the Camco levelers but I can tell you that I am 100% happy with the way the Andersen levelers have worked this season.

Totally agree........Anderson Levelers are so easy to use.
 
I just bought some, look like they will be a lot easier than piling up blocks. Anxious to try them out
 
I found Anderson's don't work on softer ground. I would also keep a piece of 1/2 in plywood to put the Anderson's on.  I had to cut about 1' off one block to fit between the tires, they said they could be trimmed a certain about in the instructions-made a tapered cut and works well.
 
I went to Tractor Supply and bought a 4' x 6' x 3/4" horse stall mat for $35.  I cut it up have something like 16 blocks out of it.  I think I did 12x18" blocks.  If you have a heated knife that would work great to cut it up as it's a bear.  They work pretty well so far and 2 blocks take about 1/2 degree of angle.

Plus they are flexible and since they are 18" long I can stack them in a tiered pyramid so they provides a "ramp" up to the main part of the stack just like the plastic blocks do.  I haven't tried them on dirt or soft terrain though so don't know about that part. 
 
Merc123 said:
I went to Tractor Supply and bought a 4' x 6' x 3/4" horse stall mat for $35.  I cut it up have something like 16 blocks out of it.  I think I did 12x18" blocks.  If you have a heated knife that would work great to cut it up as it's a bear.  They work pretty well so far and 2 blocks take about 1/2 degree of angle.

Plus they are flexible and since they are 18" long I can stack them in a tiered pyramid so they provides a "ramp" up to the main part of the stack just like the plastic blocks do.  I haven't tried them on dirt or soft terrain though so don't know about that part. 

I do close to the same thing with some old treadmill belt. My trailer is 9000#+ and my yard is pretty sandy as is the local park that we frequent.It doesn't take a whole lot to help support the leveling blocks. Just something solid to keep them from sinking. Naturally, they're not thick enough to make a ramp.
 
Merc123 said:
I went to Tractor Supply and bought a 4' x 6' x 3/4" horse stall mat for $35.  I cut it up have something like 16 blocks out of it.  I think I did 12x18" blocks.  If you have a heated knife that would work great to cut it up as it's a bear.  They work pretty well so far and 2 blocks take about 1/2 degree of angle.

Plus they are flexible and since they are 18" long I can stack them in a tiered pyramid so they provides a "ramp" up to the main part of the stack just like the plastic blocks do.  I haven't tried them on dirt or soft terrain though so don't know about that part.

I looked into these before, but they were too heavy. I think they were around 100lbs.
 
I've never been comfortable with leveling just one axle. Seems like it creates axle & tire stress and not good in the longer term. Most people, however, won't use them enough to make any material difference.

I still like the board method, either free-standing or make your own "tri-level". I doubt if you need 2x10 for any TT tire, though. Shouldn't need to be that wide. If you dropped down to 2x6 or 2x8, you save both weight and space.
 
Gary RV Roamer said:
I've never been comfortable with leveling just one axle. Seems like it creates axle & tire stress and not good in the longer term. Most people, however, won't use them enough to make any material difference.

I still like the board method, either free-standing or make your own "tri-level". I doubt if you need 2x10 for any TT tire, though. Shouldn't need to be that wide. If you dropped down to 2x6 or 2x8, you save both weight and space.

I have a "tri level" that I made out of 2x8. With that there is always some support for the second axle at the next lower level.
 
I keep a leveling arsenal on hand. I use 2x8's as my primary leveling tool, also keep a few pieces of 2x6 on hand in case we get a really uneven site (I can also use them under the jacks/landing gear if needed), and also a bag of plastic blocks. I often level one tire more than the other but no more than 1-1/2". Perhaps you can use the camco tri-leveler but also keep some wood blocks to use between the axles if going up more than one step on the tri-leveler?
 
TheNewhalls said:
I looked into these before, but they were too heavy. I think they were around 100lbs.

That's about right. Each of my block weighs in at about 8.4 pounds and I have 12.  You don't have to use as big a block as I did. The 12" wide is way wider than I need and you could go down to 8"x12" and cut the pounds to probably 5-6.  I put stacks of 6 in my tongue storage boxes on either side. I'll see how far off we are and then sling the mats down to the axles.  Most I've used so far has been 4 on one side.  I can easily carry two at a time without Much effort. It would seem to be a little easier to handle than wood blocks.
 
The thing I don't like about most of the "Leveler's".. is their Width. Seems like they're to narrow (just me), putting the load on a long, narrow patch of the tread of the tire. Ply issues ?

I'll  jus' stay with my 2 X 8's.
 
I use a combination of 2"x8" boards and 3/4"x8" strips of rubber stall mat as others have mentioned (here's a video on how to make them).  Heating the knife is a good idea for cutting through the stall mat, because it took me a WHOLE LOT of scoring/cutting with a utility/carpet knife! Good the job done, though.

Something makes me uneasy about the 1-axle leveling on plastic material.  The Andersen levelers are pretty expensive, compared to what I paid for some scrap lumber and homemade rubber mat blocks that have many other uses around the house/garage.
 
If you have or know someone with a table saw, go to a home center and buy a 4 x 8 sheet of 1-1/8" plywood (about $35 last time I checked) You can make a ton of blocks any size you need. I made several approx. 16" square for our motor home dual wheels and for use as pads under jacks. For a trailer you could make them narrower, and they are easily stackable.
 

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