RV Parking on Grass

[poncho62]

Have fun cleaning the sap and other tree droppings off your RV.....just sayin'

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Have fun cleaning the sap and other tree droppings off your RV.....just sayin'

Why? It will just seal up all the leaks in the roof!  ;D

Seriously... I had two cars parked under this tree for over 7 years and never had a problem with sap. Needles no biggy. The RV doesn't sit for very long. I'm not like these fully timers that park it leave it. I hitch up at least 2-3 times a month in the summer time and go out camping. But at least the roof is shaded and not being abused by harsh sun rays.  So what's the difference of camping under tress like that and storing?  ???

But back to the thread...

 

[poncho62]

Up to you......I just hate cleaning gooey tree sap off of things.....

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Depends a lot on the tree and the climate. Many varieties of pine trees in hot climates ooze a lot of sap. Every day. Other varieties of trees not so bad, especially in cooler climates.  The all drop a surprising amount of dirt and debris, though. I think the branches/leaves trap the dirt blowing around and then drip it down with rain or dew. Cars and coach both get a lot of tree crap at our Florida home, which has a lot of Sand Pine and a couple varieties of oak trees.

But as Mopar says, the same thing happens if you camp under trees. Some people avoid that too.

 

[kjansen]

Concrete pad is great if you can back straight on.  I have to back around the corner of my garage to park and I watch the tires dig up the gravel every time.  That's ok with me, because digging the gravel puts less stress on my tires and axles than concrete would.  If you use 4000# concrete with rebar, you will have plenty of weight capacity in the concrete-4000# per square foot.  I've run a 18,000# houseboat  on a semi trailer over that with no problem. Make sure your pour is at least 4" thick and use 1/2" rebar.

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Something to consider about concrete. Some places a tax assessor can consider that concrete pad and the RV as a another dwelling (possibly) just consider what you doing and all angle. This occur north of me in another county and upset the land owner because of the fact he didn't want to park his RV in the dirt/mud for the winter. Even though the RV wasn't lived in and was obvious with the RV cover on it was still considered a taxable structure. So I suggest you check with your local laws ans such...

 

[Erick05]

Good call out on the concrete and tax issue.  I'll have to check on that.

Getting it in was interesting after all the rain we have had in NY.  While I had him put it on a high spot there was a lower spot between the driveway and there.  First few attempts to get it to its current location did not go so well (I had to pull him out one of those attempts).

I think taking up the grass in that low spot and adding gravel would be perfect to help with getting it in and out.

As far as long term, I am thinking concrete will be the way to go...as long as I can afford it.  Worst case I would dig it out and put down fabric and gravel for now.  Then add concrete in the future.

Thanks for the tips about rebar also.  I will make sure to do that added when I do the concrete.

I was talking with a friend over the weekend and he mentioned that when he had his building poured they used concrete that had fiberglass in it?  Something about it making it stronger.  Does anyone know more about that?


Thanks again...this has all been extremely helpful.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Concrete comes in a variety of blends and is usually designated by the pressure rating, e.g. "3000 psi mix" or "2000 psi mix". Ask the suppliers what they have and what is best for your needs. I don't think motorhome tires put  all that much per inch pressure on, though. Your tires are inflated to something like 85-110 psi, not thousands!

However, the installation is equally important. Rebar or wire mesh adds tremendously to the ability to resist cracking and a solid base, well-compacted and well drained, is also crucial. Cracked concrete comes from lack of support across a span, not high psi at a single point. If a trickle of water underneath washes away some of the base, a crack is likely to appear before too long. Rebar or mesh helps it to span gaps, but it can only do so much.

 

[chevalier.andrew]

My folks had their Monaco Knight on a concrete pad, except for the back 10 feet that over hung grass. Over the course of about 8 years the engine completely rusted out. Much was due to salt from winter RV'ing, but several mechanics confirmed that it had alot to do with the moisture that came up form the grass. Im insistent on keeping my trailer on concrete or asphalt.

 

[Flyboy]

As far as long term, I am thinking concrete will be the way to go...as long as I can afford it.  Worst case I would dig it out and put down fabric and gravel for now.  Then add concrete in the future.

Arguably, all the concrete not under the wheels is wasted money.  An alternative would be to do four individual separate concrete pads for the wheels to park on and then fill in the other space with gravel.  Depending on your weight, 4-6 inches down into the ground would work.  If you are going to use the gravel fill in, then allow about an inch above ground for the concrete.  Otherwise, make it flush with the ground.  My 28K DP is parked on this concrete/gravel arrangement. 

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Arguably, all the concrete not under the wheels is wasted money.  An alternative would be to do four individual separate concrete pads for the wheels to park on and then fill in the other space with gravel.  Depending on your weight, 4-6 inches down into the ground would work.  If you are going to use the gravel fill in, then allow about an inch above ground for the concrete.  Otherwise, make it flush with the ground.  My 28K DP is parked on this concrete/gravel arrangement.

Now there is a thought you could do like concrete pavers. Just a pad under the tires.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-12-in-x-12-in-Pewter-Concrete-Step-Stone-71200/100333077

 

[Erick05]

Good call.  Perhaps I will do that...as that is much more DIY.  I can certainly get stone and compact it, pour a few concrete pads inside it (for tires, legs), then put in stone (and compact) to raise the rest to about the same level.  Maybe I will even get fancy and put 2x6 (or 2x8) around the outside to raise it above ground level so I don't get any wash out in it.

 

[Rene T]

Now there is a thought you could do like concrete pavers. Just a pad under the tires.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-12-in-x-12-in-Pewter-Concrete-Step-Stone-71200/100333077

Those pavers aren't very thick so therefor would not be very strong. Maybe if you double them up! I believe you can get them 16" X 16".

 

[carson]

I think we need a concrete engineer in the discussion.

  The footprint area of a tire is very small. All the weight of the RV on that tire will exert that weight on the tile in the center. There is no re-bar in the tiles. 

  What is the tensile strength of the tile..in the middle?  How solid is the  ground below it ?

Imagine a 1000 lb load over the whole area of the tile. Then consider a 4X6" (approx) area of tire; what do you think the pressure will be at the point of contact.

Just thinking out loud.

Paving stones are meant for people to walk on. Very,very thick ones may  make a bit of difference.

Just thinking out loud.

 

[poncho62]

I used concrete pavers (16x16, I think).....Just levelled the dirt, threw them down and parked on them last fall.....none cracked or broke. Now, this is a 5000 5th wheel trailer....a motor home may be different

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Pavers, or better yet solid concrete blocks (4"x8"x16" recommended) won't break if they are bedded in sand for 100% underneath support.  Sand will readily conform to the underside of the blocks simply by wiggling the blocks a bit; it's harder to achieve that with dirt and near impossible with rock.