RV Propane

[Chilton]

New to this whole RV thing. My RV has two propane hookups that run that stove and fridge. Where do I start when seeing if these work or has any leaks? Seems as simple as putting a full propane tank in and turning on the fridge and stove to see if they work? Is that insane or are there steps I need to take in doing this. Any help would be awesome! Thanks... Mind you I have a 74' Minnie Winnie

 

[bucks2]

With a rig of that vintage, if it were me...... I'd put the new bottle in and then check for leaks before I did the open flame test. A spray bottle of soapy water, a commercial leak test product called Snoop, or even a plain old bottle of 409 will work. Pressurize the propane system and wet every fitting and any hose or piping that you can get to. If you see a bubble, then you know there's a leak to fix. It's entirely possible that the sytem is tight and no repair is needed. It's also possible that some of the rubbre hoses are weathered and ready to break or leak, or that some of the piping has rubbed and become suspect. You'll only know by checking.

Also be aware that propane has an odorant added to let you know if a leak is present. If the wind doesn't blow the smell away, or disperse it, that might be a sign of a leak too.

Ken

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Even if the flame test works, you could still have leaks of the sort that Ken suggests testing for. He gave good advice and I suggest you do that, either up front or very soon after doing the flame test.

But yes, I would hook up a full LP bottle, listen/sniff for obvious major leaks and the sound of the LP detector, and, if none found, go ahead and try lighting the stove. May take a few tries. Once the stove runs ok for a few minutes, try the furnace, water heater and fridge, one at a time and in no particular order. See what lights and what doesn't, then lets discuss any problems.

Make sure the LP detector is working, i.e. has power, and have some windows open inside to provide ventilation. And if you can't get appliance to light and stay lit, don't leave the LP turned on while you go have a beer and think. A small LP leak can turn dangerous is the gas is allowed to accumulate (it is heavier than air, so fills in low places) and then you make a spark somehow..

 

[bucks2]

Gary says: "Make sure the LP detector is working, i.e. has power, and have some windows open inside to provide ventilation."

I have a different view on how to use the detector to check for minor leaks. As he said, make sure you have a working LP detector. Then in my version you seal that rig up tight, every door, window, crack and hole should be closed up just like you were expecting the coldest night of the year and you were low on propane. (or whatever other fuel you use for heat) Now turn your units on, propane bottle open, etc. If you have a leak, the fumes will build up, and set off the alarm which you will hear from outside your rig where you are monitoring it from. If you hear an alarm quickly it's a big leak, if it takes 3-4 hours its a smaller leak. But, at least you found a leak! Exactly where it is is still a mystery, but for safety you know there is a problem to track down and fix.

If you perform the same type of test "with ventilation" it is possible that the ventilation will keep the propane level from building to the point that it would set off the detector. Now you might be falsely thinking your system is sound.  Imagine then needing to close everything up in hunting camp and then having the alarm go off at o'dark thirty? I would rather find the problem in my back yard if possible.

The same is true with CO detectors. If you know or suspect a problem, you'll find it more quickly in a closed up rig, while you are monitoring it safely from outside. I can't count the number of times people called 911 to report that their CO detector went off. The standard advice from the Dispatch Center was to open all the doors and windows to ventilate and get everybody outside. Now, when I show up with my 6 gas, bump tested daily, calibrated twice a week, sensitive testing meter to assess the levels inside the house, what will I find? A nicely ventilated house with none of the product which set off the alarm and possibly whatever appliance (generally it was an appliance, occassionally a chemical mixture) is not still on or not operating in the same manner that it was when the alarm went off. A frusterating way to spend an hour in the middle of the night for both us and the homeowner.


Ken

 

[Ned]

I wouldn't use a closed up RV to test for propane leaks.  A good friend and his wife were wintering in Mexico many years ago and had a propane leak they didn't know about.  When the wife opened the door to the 5th wheel, it disturbed the accumulated gas enough that it found a pilot light or spark and ignited, destroying the trailer.  The wife died of her burns.

 

[John From Detroit]

Just remember one thing...  While I was doing an internet run and laundry at the Family center at one campground... They were checking their answers on a propane pump jockey certification test.

The question they were checking: What happens if you get the proper air/propane mixture and add a spark or flame?

I piped up: "You land two counties over"

After the laughter died, the instructor said "Exactly".

And don't ever forget it.

 

[bucks2]

I wouldn't use a closed up RV to test for propane leaks.  A good friend and his wife were wintering in Mexico many years ago and had a propane leak they didn't know about.  When the wife opened the door to the 5th wheel, it disturbed the accumulated gas enough that it found a pilot light or spark and ignited, destroying the trailer.  The wife died of her burns.

It's important to note that I stated in the first post to do the testing BEFORE any fire was added to the mix. Here's what I said: " I'd put the new bottle in and then check for leaks before I did the open flame test."

And note that I suggested that you were monitoring from OUTSIDE, and that you had a working detector which would alarm well before LEL (lower explosive level) was reached. Propane detectors are placed low and propane is significantly heavier than air so it will collect at floor lever unless the air currents from fans or open window stir the mixture, which may keep the detector from working as designed.

While a good warning, did your friend have a rig without LP detector or was the alarm ignored? I wonder what would have happened if they were both inside, eventually smelled the propane and one of them walked to the door and opened it? Lots of possibilities. Accidents can happen at any time.

Ken

 

[Ned]

Sparks can come from a lot of causes.  I wouldn't want an RV full of propane and then open the door.  There are better ways to check for leaks than that.

 

[Racerham]

The correct way to test for leaks is using a pressure gauge in the LP line. My sunflyer had one installed in front of the fridge when I got it. It's accessible behind the fridge panel on the outside. It may have been an addition to the system, but a very good addition.

Turn off all the propane appliances. Open the valve on the propane take to pressurize the line, then turn it off. The gauge has a moveable red pointer. Set the pointer to the pressure reading. Then wait awhile. If you have a leak, the pressure will fall. If it takes longer than about 1/2 hour to noticeably fall below the pointer, then your lines are good. If it falls significantly over 5 to 10 minutes, you've got a leak to find using the soapy water method.

You're much less likely to have trouble with this method.

Good Luck,

Mike

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Yeap, a pressure (leak-down) test is the right way. But most of us don't have the equipment to do that, so we make do with slightly riskier methods.