RV Stove/Oven Gas Line

[clemon]

Hi folks, I picked up a used 4-burner + oven RV stove that I plan to incorporate into an outdoor kitchen at our seasonal campsite (the TT's galley only has a 2-burner cooktop, and the outdoor kitchen will encourage the DW to come out for longer periods  ). The plan is to build a cabinet/stand for it and connect it o a 20lb portable LP tank.

In making the LP connection, the gas line must enter the rear of the unit and run past the 2 left burners to connect to the gas manifold at the front of the range. The fitting at the manifold is a standard 3/8" flare, which is the most common fitting on a standard flexible BBQ gas line.

I'm wondering if using a stainless steel braided gas line like this one might be a suitable option?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Propane-Natural-Gas-Line-5-ft-Stainless-Steel-Braided-Hose-LP-LPG-Grill-Parts-/252328277480

Is a SS line sufficiently heat-proof for this application or should I plan on using solid copper tubing from the stove's manifold to a connection with a standard BBQ hose & regulator outside the unit (ie in the cabinet beside the stove)?

Thanks in advance.

 

[kdbgoat]

I would go with the solid copper line if I were doing it.

 

[Nomadb1]

I would say either one - once applying a piece of sheetmetal between the line's route and the burners.  Couple sheetmetal screws and some flashing in the right place will keep the line from seeing a lot of the heat. (I'd lean toward the copper too long as it doesn't see any mechanical stress.)

 

[clemon]

I would say either one - once applying a piece of sheetmetal between the line's route and the burners.  Couple sheetmetal screws and some flashing in the right place will keep the line from seeing a lot of the heat. (I'd lean toward the copper too long as it doesn't see any mechanical stress.)

The heat shield is a smart idea - thanks for that.

I think I'll drop by my local RV shop and get them to make up a 5-6ft solid copper line for me. Once the stove is mounted in the cabinet there should be no mechanical stress on it.

 

[NickB]

The piping inside the stove top would normally be soft copper or some form of rigid pipe. I wouldn't recommend soft line because it could potentially move around inside the housing and block a critical air vent or create a ground for the igniter to potentially arc to.

I'd personally go with copper until you hit the exit of the stove's body and then use a flexible hose from there. You'll need a 2 stage regulator at the bottle. Or better yet, install a Quick Disconnect to the RV and run off of that.

 

[clemon]

The piping inside the stove top would normally be soft copper or some form of rigid pipe. I wouldn't recommend soft line because it could potentially move around inside the housing and block a critical air vent or create a ground for the igniter to potentially arc to.

I'd personally go with copper until you hit the exit of the stove's body and then use a flexible hose from there. You'll need a 2 stage regulator at the bottle. Or better yet, install a Quick Disconnect to the RV and run off of that.

Thanks NickB. I'm debating a quick disconnect. It sure would be simpler to have one LP tank run everything. Not sure at the moment how far from the RV the outdoor kitchen will be, so I'll wait on that decision.

 

[clemon]

I've got my local RV shop making up a copper line for me - 5 feet of copper with flare connections at both ends will cost me a whole $25CAD. That's less than I spent on the bbq line with regulator. The plan is coming together nicely!

 

[malexander]

The only problem with solid copper is, after a while it gets old & stiff. Doesn't flex very easily. I'd lean more toward the SS flex line, but, that's just me.

 

[Rene T]

The only problem with solid copper is, after a while it gets old & stiff. Doesn't flex very easily. I'd lean more toward the SS flex line, but, that's just me.

Once you have the copper bent to whatever configuration you want, there would be no reason to move it around.

I believe the flex line has rubber in it and I'd be afraid of the rubber breaking down being near a heat source. Heat/flame and propane don't mix.

 

[robertusa123]

Her is the work from a certified HVAC tech.      The copper line with flare fitting is fine as long as it's a permanent install. Do not use compression fittings    The rubber coated corrugated stainless is also fine in a permanent install.  If your moving it around I go with a rubber flex line with quick conecter.....      And the RV shop 25$ making up the line is very fare.  Pay cash

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The copper "pigtail" is a wise choice, I think.  The SS braid is just an abrasion-resistant covering for a rubber gas line, and not something I would want to trust in an area potentially exposed to high temperatures and flames. It's probably adequate for normal situations, but there may be times when flames are trapped under the cooking utensils or heat builds to excess and then what? Copper is a safer choice for that area, and I see no downside in using it. A flex line external to the stove itself will allow some movement, easy installation, etc.

 

[clemon]

Thanks for all the replies, folks! Once installed, the stove will not be moving (built into an outdoor kitchen island). I've had my local rv shop make up a 5-ft length of solid copper tubing to run from the stove manifold, out the back of the unit and down/across the cabinet to a flared double-male 3/8" fitting to which I will connect a standard flexible black rubber bbq line and regulator. The flex line will allow easy connection to a standard 20lb LP tank well away from any potential heat/flame from the stove.

This will really expand our cooking options at the trailer - I'll also be adding a sink with running water and a bar fridge for extra cold storage. A standard LP barbecue will round out the whole outdoor kitchen setup.

I'll document the entire build for a future post

 

[NickB]

I'll document the entire build for a future post

Looking forward to that!