Self contained electrical outlets

[Ron]

I haven't seen any reports or evidence that the type of electrical outlet being discussed is responsible for numerous electrical fires or even for loss of power.  I might add that the same cannot be said for the spring type push in connections that ARE approved for residential use.

I am aware of at least one case where there intermittent power at an outlet that may have been a potential for possible fire.  I helped a neighbor in a campground troubleshoot a condition in which power may or may not be available at one outlet after travel.  Removal of the outlet revealed that the wire had not been properly installed and would sometimes make contact and sometimes not.  Proper connection of the wire corrected the anomaly.

 

[Alaskansnowbirds]

Removal of the outlet revealed that the wire had not been properly installed and would sometimes make contact and sometimes not.  Proper connection of the wire corrected the anomaly.

But that was the fault of the installer, not the fault of the outlet. You could have a hospital grade outlet that isn't installed correctly that would be a bigger hazard than the push in outlet installed correctly.

 

[Ron]

But that was the fault of the installer, not the fault of the outlet. You could have a hospital grade outlet that isn't installed correctly that would be a bigger hazard than the push in outlet installed correctly.

While what you said is true I believe there is more of a potential for an improper install with the push in wires than with those that requires a screw to be tightened.

 

[John From Detroit]

I am with Ron on this and I have read of electrical problems (Thankfully not of fires) due to the quality of the connection.  I do not think it was here, I think it was on the other rver's network I belong to.. but I've read of it.

I believe in screw, neednose plies, and perhaps a drop of locktite.

 

[pchip64]

Actually, there is a tool that is manufactured to push the wires into the inside of the self contained outlets and switches.  I remodeled a mobile home that I was fixing for my daughter and bought one.  I changed all of the outlets and switches in the entire trailer in about four hours with new.  If you have the tool it takes about 30 seconds to swap out an outlet or switch.  The issue  with RV's is that with a regular outlet or switch, you have wire contacting screws or springs in a flammable environment.  The reason self contained are used is that they eliminate the possibility of an arc starting a fire.  For my own peace of mind, it's worth the extra expense and/or time to put the safest plug or switch in that exists.

 

[tvman44]

I refuse to use the spring connection on any receptacle or switch anywhere, it takes a little longer but I always wrap the wire around the screw.  Makes me feel safer and I have never had a problem with one in my life.

 

[Water Dog]

I also do not like the push in connectors on the back of residential outlets nor the plastic RV outlets. I usually spend the extra couple of dollars and buy the backwired outlets where the wire is clamped in.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

My "self contained" RV outlets all have the long slots where the wire is clamped in sideways rather than just inserted endwise into a hole with spring clips inside.  Based on my experience with removing wires into this sort of outlet, I'm not at all worried about them coming loose. They are really, really gripped in the grooves,  plus the backplate holds them in place. This is the type of receptacle we are talking about:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009KKDEY?&tag=shopwiki-us-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325

 

[Ken & Sheila]

I've added 8 outlets to my Windsor, all RV self-contained. On the Camelot I've added 9 outlets. The first 3 were RV self contained, but then I switched to Pass-Seymour back wire where a side screw actually clamps the wire in tightly. Obviously these require using a wiring box suitable secured.

ken

 

[Timber]

Double-E here.

Screw-down connections would need to have a thread sealant applied to the screws to keep them from loosening from vibration, and even then, you'd have a fatigue point in the copper where it was wrapped around the screw terminal that would be subject to failure... houses don't vibrate that way.

Each of the options for electrical outlets has an inherent weakness.

IMHO: If I had a good quality outlet with the RV connectors, I'd be more likely to use that over the best household outlet available because it would have less of a chance of an unexpected disconnection.  But if the RV outlet was otherwise poorly constructed and cheap, I would hunt for a commercial outlet rated for hazardous (i.e. explosive) environments because those connectors are engineered to eliminate or minimize copper fatigue - and I'd never have to worry about catastrophic disconnects.