Slide out and jack problems

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Nomadic Mason

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Joined
Dec 6, 2015
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41
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Wherever I stop for the day!!!!
I know I posted this question once before, but I can't seem to find it now. The slide out and the jacks are not working (still) and this is after getting two new coach batteries. I originally thought the problem was because of my "dead" coach batteries, but alas the problem is still there. I have even tried to get both working with the engine running - nada.

I have looked through all of my manuals to see if there may be a fuse problem. Again, all fuses are good (even checked resistance with meter). I don't see any place where I can access the slide out mechanism. Even so the HWH jacks aren't working either. This is an older motor home that had been sitting around and not used for many years, I believe.

Should I just take it to a service center for them to look at it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
If the slide is hydraulic and powered by the same hydraulic system as the jacks, the likely problem is the hydraulic pump. It may well have a separate inline fuse too.  I don't know where Winnie puts the hydraulic pump & reservoir, so can't help with that.
 
It should be a shared pump located somewhere near the front of the rig, might be under the steps.  I would start troubleshooting at the pump and work upstream looking for 12V.
 
A lot of them are located behind the front bumper. Mine has a fuse in-line near the pump. I would locate it and clean all the contacts and check both ends of the ground. It may also be the contacts on the control panel, unplug and plug a couple of times to clean contacts.
 
Well, after looking over the Owner's Manual I finally figured out where the hydraulic pump was located. If anybody else needs a hint for this year and model Winnie, it is located behind the LP tank on the right side.

Still I did not find any fuses near by; however, there is a solenoid mounted on top. As soon as I can get someone to turn things on at the driver's seat I will test the points with my voltmeter. Is there anything else I should be attempting to look at?

I am recalcitrant to head for Camping World to have them look at it and charge me an exorbitant fee for their service.
 
The HWH system usually uses separate solenoids for the jacks and slides. Each system usually has an inline fuse that can be blown. One 40a and the other is 20 if I recall. You have to get down by the reservoir and look at the wiring going up to the solenoids. The inline fuses will be in the wire bundle within about 10" of the connections at the solenoids which then go to the starter motor driving the pump. With bad or low batteries it would be very possible to have blown both fuses. There are other options also but these are the most likely. Good luck with it.
 
Bill,

I'm sure you already know, but didn't see any mention above ... most units require you to have the transmission in park and the parking brake set.  Reason I mention this is I occasionally have a problem with the parking brake switch not closing and have to reset it a couple of times.  My slides are gear driven but I do have hydraulic jacks and there is a light on the control panel that should come on, which is how I catch the bad switch problem now.  Only happens once in a while so I haven't got around to fixing it yet.  FWIW  ....

Howard
 
I see you're a fulltimer, so I assume right now you're somewhere warm.  However, if you happen to be anywhere close to eastern Iowa, it might be worth a trip to the HWH factory in Moscow, IA.  It's just off I-80, about 50 miles from the IL border.  Fortunately for me, it's only about 70 miles from my house. 

They obviously know what they're doing and I find them to be reasonably priced.
 
Well, after spending the day crawling under the chassis I did not find any inline fuses. I did have someone flip the switch while I was by the hydraulic pump. The solenoid click once and the voltage hit 12 volts, but the after continued switching I no longer heard the click and no more voltage readings.

Frustrating!!!!!!!!!!!

Any hints?
 
Nomadic Mason said:
..The solenoid click once and the voltage hit 12 volts, but the after continued switching I no longer heard the click and no more voltage readings... Any hints?
Bypass the wiring by applying 12V to the solenoids/motor to check them out.  Could be that your 12V source wiring cannot handle the current draw OR the solenoid/motor is drawing too much current.  Use a clamp-on DC ammeter (something like this one) to see how much current is being drawn.
 
So I would first suggest figuring out what model HWH system you have. They have to have fuses somewhere and the manual usually will show what type and rating of fuse you will have in your specific system.
If you don't have fuses in front of the solenoid then the next best thing is using a VOM to see if you have voltage at the solenoid. You said you did for a short period but never specified which side of the solenoid. Was the voltage there to pull in the solenoid or where you just checking the output side?
If you still have it at the side that pulls in the solenoid then the solenoid is bad, if you don't have it there to pull in the solenoid then you have to check upstream in your manual to see what type of fuses you have to power the system. All your fuses could be in the control box. This is where your 12v originates usually and controls the system with various fuses to system components. You have a pump fuse here and a large ground wire which could also be giving you trouble. Once you safety's are all satisfied (like the park brake etc) this is the unit that controls the system. This is sometimes well hid and as I said they usually put some inline fuses close to the solenoids but your manual will usually tell you what you have so start with the type of system.

 
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