Starter solenoid problem?

[Dougie Brown]

Have returned to the UK this week after 6months to our stored Rexhall Rexair, I find that the (Ford V10) engine won't turn over.  Click-click on the key-turn, battery fully-charged, no lights dim on the click, so suspect the solenoid which was in fact replaced 18 months ago.  An auto-electrician fitted a relay at the starter end to (apparently) reduce current at the ignition switch, and that relay is opening & closing OK.

Before I take a deep breath & grovel underneath on a dirty barn floor, can someone please advise of common manufacturers and part numbers?  Or indeed suggest any other course of action?  I've had someone hit it with a blunt metal object whilst attempting to start, but no luck.

Dougie.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

If the starter goes clickity-clickity-click, that sounds like low voltage at the starter end. You could have a corroded connection rather than a bad solenoid. And if you just hear the single click of the relay closing but nothing happens, the it's either the solenoid itself or the wire from solenoid to starter. Or the starter, I guess. In any case, you need to get underneath and check the voltage there rather than at the batteries.

 

[Utclmjmpr]

The battery ends AT THE BATTERIES can also be corroded, sitting for that long will promote this, and the result will be the same.>>>Dan
( Its also the most common problem I see)

 

[catblaster]

Gary and Dan are probably right however I have one suggestion if others fail. On several occasions I have found the wire to the solenoid too small to pull in a weak solenoid or as in my old VW it was too small from the factory. After replacing a solenoid and a starter in my Gator UTV it was found that the solenoid wire had broken conductors inside the insulation. It would clickity click but not enough current to pull in the contacts.
Suggestion is jump a wire from battery to solenoid just to see if heavier or new wire would help. Like I said, the others suggestions are probably right on. Just a thought!

 

[Molaker]

Since the lights do not dim when attempting to start, this would suggest the battery cables and battery cable connections probably are not the problem.  The suggestions about the solenoid and connections to the starter itself are good possibilities.  However, since this thing sat for 6 mos. (in good old damp UK), I'd suggest first trying to rotate the starter manually to move the commutator so the brushes fall on a different segment.  It could be the connection between the two is just corroded.  Getting it to spin once should solve that problem.

 

[Dougie Brown]

Since the lights do not dim when attempting to start, this would suggest the battery cables and battery cable connections probably are not the problem.  The suggestions about the solenoid and connections to the starter itself are good possibilities.  However, since this thing sat for 6 mos. (in good old damp UK), I'd suggest first trying to rotate the starter manually to move the commutator so the brushes fall on a different segment.  It could be the connection between the two is just corroded.  Getting it to spin once should solve that problem.

Thanks for the responses.  How do I rotate the starter manually on an auto transmission?  Direct connection to the battery?

Just to clarify, there is only one CLICK on turning the key, not the ratchet-type clicking you get on low voltage.  We tried it whilst connected to the mother of all commercial charger/boosters, but no difference.

So if I connect direct from the battery to the solenoid, and the starter turns, does it indicate that the solenoid is fine?

Dougie.

 

[Utclmjmpr]

Direct to the starter side of the solenoid, you only want to spin the starter motor,, if it spins then try the solenoid side to engage the starter and hopefully turn it over.>>>Dan

 

[Dougie Brown]

Direct to the starter side of the solenoid, you only want to spin the starter motor,, if it spins then try the solenoid side to engage the starter and hopefully turn it over.>>>Dan

Thank you Dan - I'll give it a go.

Dougie.

 

[John From Detroit]

In addition to the battery end of the cables there is the cable to the starter itself (Both ends) and perhaps some others.  I have seen those cable(s) be the issue more than once.  Usually due to a screw (Well nut in this case) loose.

Many RVers have a few screws loose or a few loose nuts... All too often they are part of electrical connectors.

 

[Just Lou]

Dougie,  A single click, with NO dimming of the lights, usually indicates that the small solenoid (referred to as the start relay in the linked diagram) has activated, but may not have made internal electrical contact to pass voltage to activate the solenoid attached to the starter.  If the actual starter solenoid doesn't receive voltage, it will not activate and the starter will not turn.

Your mention of the installation of an aftermarket solenoid (by an auto-electrician) makes remote diagnosis beyond that point mere speculation.  BTW - The starter relay is in place to accomplish just what you described.  Another solenoid/relay should not have been necessary.

As others have mentioned, poor cable connections at both the battery and/or the starter could produce the same symptoms.  The starter solenoid and likewise the starter require much more current to activate than does the small starter relay. 

 

[Victory]

Having just experienced this with our Ford 460 it is probably the starter itself. Ours would every once in a while do this. If you waited a while it would start right up. Next time would be fine.
Our mechanic told us, since it would never do it for them, that if it won't start to tap on the starter while turning the key. This spring on a trip to South Bend it became a regular occurence, started every time with a tap while wife turned key. Came home replaced starter, haven't had a problem since! Just make sure you get a good starter, not a cheap rebuild.