Steering stabilizer for my Dream

[stevensc]

I am looking for a new steering stabilizer for my 99' American Dream.  The original sales brochure says I have a Spartan Mountain Master Shackled Rail frame.  I found a stabilizer for a Spartan Mt. Master, non-ifs.  I don't know what non-ifs means and wanted to be sure I ordered the correct item.  Thanks for any help!

 

[ChasA]

IFS=InIndependent Front Suspension.

 

[Utclmjmpr]

Your Mountain Master has the IFS,, just have the coach aligned back to front and you won't need any bolt on devices.
The Mountain Master has two parallel stabilizer shock absorbers on the tie rod already,, probably made by Rancho in Long Beach SoCal.( The part number will be on the old shocks).>>>Dan
  Also the correct front tire pressure is very important to your steering stability. (Too much will make it squirrelly)

( Most large trucking repair shops will have the electronic alignment equipment to handle your work needs)...

 

[Harvard]

POPULAR MECHANICS MAY 1973:
START QUOTE:
If too little caster exists, the car will wander and weave,
thus necessitating constant corrections in steering.
END QUOTE:

There are at least two ways to increase the effective
runtime caster:

1. Decrease the tire inflation pressure to the required
minimum for load (to increase Pneumatic Trail), this
should give you the maximum available benefit from the
existing caster angle. It appears this effect is much more
pronounced on larger wheels (ie 22.5 inch vs 16 inch)

AND/OR

2. Increase the caster angle during an alignment
(to increase caster trail).

 

[Utclmjmpr]

Per my notes, mine was spect. at 3.4 pos. on the left and 3.5 pos. for the right, and is right on spec. The important thing on the IFS is the camber setting that is adjusted at the factory and can be adjusted slightly by adjusting the height control valves,,but not advisable.>>>Dan

 

[stevensc]

Thank you guys for some great information!

I think I will:
1 - Pull the stabilizer shocks to see how they feel. (May be original)
2 - Adjust air pressure to lowest required level.

See how this works, if still wandering I'll worry about alignment and caster.

I'll keep you posted.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Don't change the system air pressure - it should remain at 125, give or take a few.  And it won't affect ride height anyway, unless you drop it really low.  Suspension height and therefore wheel camber is controlled via the ride height valves. Those gate more or less air into the air bags and thus alter the height.

By the way, your Mountain Master is a STACKED Rail chassis rather than "Shackled".

You might find this 1999 Dream brochure informational:  https://library.rvusa.com/brochure/Fleetwood1999_AmericanDream_b.pdf

 

[Utclmjmpr]

I think he meant TIRE pressure Gary,,,on his I would guess about 90 to 95 for the fronts. As you state the system pressure would make no difference and just cause problems elsewhere.>>>Dan

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I think he meant TIRE pressure Gary,,

Ah, that would make more sense. However, whether that is a good idea or not depends on his definition of  "lowest required". The tire inflation tables give the absolute minimum required psi and that is not a good choice (my opinion).

 

[stevensc]

Ah, that would make more sense. However, whether that is a good idea or not depends on his definition of  "lowest required". The tire inflation tables give the absolute minimum required psi and that is not a good choice (my opinion).

Yes, I did mean tire pressure.  Currently I have the front at 100 psi.  I'll try 95 and see how that goes if you think that is safe.

 

[Larry N.]

The tire inflation tables Gary mentioned are such as this one from Michelin where you look at the table with your axle weight and tire size/model, along with whether it is mounted as a single or as a dual. From that you'll find a minimum inflation.

When Gary said:
"The tire inflation tables give the absolute minimum required psi and that is not a good choice (my opinion)."

I suspect he was indicating that a little higher, to allow for variations in ambient temperatures, road conditions, and other things, would be preferable, so adding 5 psi or so to the figure from the table.

 

[Utclmjmpr]

Steven,, Have you ever had the rig weighed all topped up and ready to travel???  When you can you will need this info from time to time.>>>Dan

 

[stevensc]

Steven,, Have you ever had the rig weighed all topped up and ready to travel???  When you can you will need this info from time to time.>>>Dan

I have not done this yet.  I know I need to and plan to get it done soon, before I start messing with the pressure too much.  I'd really like to do the four corner weights but not sure anybody in this area does that.  Thanks!

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

You can do a good approximation of the corner weights with front and rear axle weights and you can get those on most any commercial scale.  Divide by 2 for the front and 4 for the rear duals, then add 5% or 10% to allow of imbalanced axle weight (one end heavier than the other). Make sure you don't go below the minimum inlfaion for the tre size (shown in the inflation tables).

 

[Utclmjmpr]

I have the same chassis as you,,one year older with 126K miles.. I have owned it half it's life and 85K miles.. The good thing about this chassis is the method used to build it. The "stacked" frame is just that,, the chassis rails are one part of the "stack", the "house also has a set of rails that approximate the chassis that it sets on. Both rails ,,one on top of the other are bolted together down each side using large "U" bolts along there length.... This allows a certain amount of flex across the length (twist) which is good and bad.. The best part is the extra space that is created to mount all the tanks right down the center of the coach,( the fuel tank is also in the center forward of the others) The good is the flex that helps ride,, the bad is flex that will break the windshield if you park on off level or on twisted ground. Another good is very little side to side imbalance,, so you only need front and rear axle weights, and a little math, to establish proper tire pressures front and rear..
  Most Flying "J" stations have the CAT scale system that you can weigh front and rear independently then add the two for the total as weighed.. Divide the front by two and the rear by four to give tire loads per tire.. You need to do this periodically because RVs gain weight over time,, In the ten+ years I've owed mine it has "gained" 750 pounds...


  Your three point leveling jack system is also designed to act like a three legged milk stool,, the assumption is the front will "tilt" when leveling the rear,,BUT,, and this is important, if the front end is still sitting on the air bags as you are leveling the rear very much, the windshield go's BANG,, either breaks or pops out... It's very important to raise the front enough to allow it to"tilt" BEFORE lowering the rear jacks much,, this minimizes the twist..>>>Dan

 
 
 

 

[stevensc]

I have the same chassis as you,,one year older with 126K miles.. I have owned it half it's life and 85K miles.. The good thing about this chassis is the method used to build it. The "stacked" frame is just that,, the chassis rails are one part of the "stack", the "house also has a set of rails that approximate the chassis that it sets on. Both rails ,,one on top of the other are bolted together down each side using large "U" bolts along there length.... This allows a certain amount of flex across the length (twist) which is good and bad.. The best part is the extra space that is created to mount all the tanks right down the center of the coach,( the fuel tank is also in the center forward of the others) The good is the flex that helps ride,, the bad is flex that will break the windshield if you park on off level or on twisted ground. Another good is very little side to side imbalance,, so you only need front and rear axle weights, and a little math, to establish proper tire pressures front and rear..
  Most Flying "J" stations have the CAT scale system that you can weigh front and rear independently then add the two for the total as weighed.. Divide the front by two and the rear by four to give tire loads per tire.. You need to do this periodically because RVs gain weight over time,, In the ten+ years I've owed mine it has "gained" 750 pounds...


  Your three point leveling jack system is also designed to act like a three legged milk stool,, the assumption is the front will "tilt" when leveling the rear,,BUT,, and this is important, if the front end is still sitting on the air bags as you are leveling the rear very much, the windshield go's BANG,, either breaks or pops out... It's very important to raise the front enough to allow it to"tilt" BEFORE lowering the rear jacks much,, this minimizes the twist..>>>Dan

  Dan, very good information.  Thanks!