Step Cover Won't Retract
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weewun
Well-known member
I assume you are talking about the single step and cover used on higher end coaches and also that the step is retracting normally.
I have worked on a Country Coach step system and the cover did not have a separate motor. The cover was connected to the step via linkages and closed as the step retracted. Yours may not be the same.
In that case the linkage was loose.
A few more details as to the Coach make and model, step manufacturer and model would be a great help.
I have worked on a Country Coach step system and the cover did not have a separate motor. The cover was connected to the step via linkages and closed as the step retracted. Yours may not be the same.
In that case the linkage was loose.
A few more details as to the Coach make and model, step manufacturer and model would be a great help.
B
bucks2
Guest
On my rig you can look under the step cover with the door open and see the motor and linkages. I spray them with dry silicone lube each year. IIRC the front piece, the one you'd kick your foot into if you didn't lift it enough when entering, is screwed onto the step mechanism and could be unscrewed and lifted up to allow access to the mechanism. The carpet on the step cover is folded over onto this front piece but I believe it could be just folded back.
I presume you're talking about the "inside" step cover for the passengers feet in a diesel pusher, not the outside step that Weewun seems to be talking about.
Ken
I presume you're talking about the "inside" step cover for the passengers feet in a diesel pusher, not the outside step that Weewun seems to be talking about.
Ken
HueyPilotVN
Well-known member
weewun said:
From his previous post he has I believe a 2010 Monaco Diplomat 42
Tom
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We've had our step cover jam and refuse to move due to one end of the carpet (that covers the step cover) turning up. The first time this happened, the step cover was extended and we were unable to exit the coach.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
My step cover is operated by air pressure rather than a electric motor. It moves by hand if the coach air pressure is released.
For an electric driven one, I think you need to disconnect the motor from the gear track, but have no suggestions as to how to do that in your particular coach.
For an electric driven one, I think you need to disconnect the motor from the gear track, but have no suggestions as to how to do that in your particular coach.
Tom
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The one on our Monaco is also air operated, so I wonder about the OP's Monaco.
Your step manual would be a valuable starting point. I'm not sure why you are convinced the motor is no good.
As you can see from the replies, you have us dancing around not knowing what step you are using.
If this was a Kwikee step you can disengage it, so it can be tied up with a plastic tie so you can move the coach. Then you would follow the Kwikee steps troubleshooting to separate your troubleshooting between the electrical connections vs the motor and the controller. Kwikee has the tech set up a separate battery with a troubleshooting pigtail to try to run the motor and the controller. If they work, then it is an electrical problem.
In this situation you might simply reroute your ground connection to the negative side of the battery to see if the ground is the problem...you might just get lucky. I have seen techs spend a lot of time replacing the motor and controller just to discover they had a ground problem...electrical mental block, and refusal to read the Kwikee manual and follow their troubleshooting procedures.
Generally, checking your ground connection should be first on the list considering the rough handling/dirt/corrosion the steps are subjected to below the chassis and the lack of maintenance of most owners.
Don't use wd40 as a lube. You can try to see if the movement is frozen by using wd40, but then wipe dry and See bucks2 post. Kwikee has their own step lube.
Annually, you should recheck as many of your electrical connections as possible throughout your coach: make sure they are clean, tight, and dry. Use something like silicon dielectric to protect the connections before you tighten them up.
As you can see from the replies, you have us dancing around not knowing what step you are using.
If this was a Kwikee step you can disengage it, so it can be tied up with a plastic tie so you can move the coach. Then you would follow the Kwikee steps troubleshooting to separate your troubleshooting between the electrical connections vs the motor and the controller. Kwikee has the tech set up a separate battery with a troubleshooting pigtail to try to run the motor and the controller. If they work, then it is an electrical problem.
In this situation you might simply reroute your ground connection to the negative side of the battery to see if the ground is the problem...you might just get lucky. I have seen techs spend a lot of time replacing the motor and controller just to discover they had a ground problem...electrical mental block, and refusal to read the Kwikee manual and follow their troubleshooting procedures.
Generally, checking your ground connection should be first on the list considering the rough handling/dirt/corrosion the steps are subjected to below the chassis and the lack of maintenance of most owners.
Don't use wd40 as a lube. You can try to see if the movement is frozen by using wd40, but then wipe dry and See bucks2 post. Kwikee has their own step lube.
Annually, you should recheck as many of your electrical connections as possible throughout your coach: make sure they are clean, tight, and dry. Use something like silicon dielectric to protect the connections before you tighten them up.
Tom
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Rodger, for clarification, I believe the rest of us are talking about the step cover, not the steps. It's a DP thing, but I've seen a few gas coaches that would benefit from such a cover.
Thanks Tom, most of the step covers I have seen were simply the rug placed on each step, so I just assumed, since he mentioned the motor, that the step wasn't working.
As always, there is usually a need for a bit of clarifying comments in these fix it threads. And your perception is right, that mostly I have worked on the gas units and recently on the Airstream trailers.
As a note, many of the newbie premium Airstream trailers owners were shocked to discover they had to deal with almost all the same issues as everyone else does who own an rv. But then, it is a work of art to some, though limited in storage and kind of confining inside with no slides.
As always, there is usually a need for a bit of clarifying comments in these fix it threads. And your perception is right, that mostly I have worked on the gas units and recently on the Airstream trailers.
As a note, many of the newbie premium Airstream trailers owners were shocked to discover they had to deal with almost all the same issues as everyone else does who own an rv. But then, it is a work of art to some, though limited in storage and kind of confining inside with no slides.
Tom
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Aye Rodger, the step cover is a flat 'platform' that slides out to cover the entire step well. In the case of DPs, it provides a "floor" for the person in the passenger seat while extended. Retract to access the steps and be able to enter or exit the coach.
B
bucks2
Guest
Rodger, you should keep the CLK 320 and get the Newmar too. I've always kept my S class MB's (300 SD, then 560 SEC, 3 of them, then the S 430) as I changed boats and then added this MH. The ride in a C class is not up to the standard of an S class and the seats are too close together. There's just no room inside for 5 people in a C.
Ken
Ken
Tom
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Rodger, one additional clarification ... my description applies to DPs with front entry doors. There are a small number of DP models that have a mid entry door, like most gas models, and don't need the step cover to be a "floor" for the front passenger to put their feet.
Right bucks2, I agree. Just wish I could tow the clk 4 wheels down behind the Newmar. Have looked at the semi haulers, but usually they add a smart car. Yes, more can be done, but not that elegant of a solution.
Probably stow the MB in the garage and tow a jeep behind the Newmar. Pretty sure on the length, but that could change, and the best deals start at 40 for a dp. A Dutch Star would be another choice with tag axle, but that will be 40 ft, more and more.
Anyway, leaving in our B- rv for the ocean today and some seafood. One day trip.
Probably stow the MB in the garage and tow a jeep behind the Newmar. Pretty sure on the length, but that could change, and the best deals start at 40 for a dp. A Dutch Star would be another choice with tag axle, but that will be 40 ft, more and more.
Anyway, leaving in our B- rv for the ocean today and some seafood. One day trip.
jsetti
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For clarification on the original post ... I wrote the post under DH's sign-in. That's probably why their was confusion about what I was talking!
We are indeed having a problem with the cover that goes over the interior steps on our 2010 Monaco Diplomat. The reason we thought the motor was blown was the "burned electrical" smell and the fact that northing would not move.
Since the original post we made it to Schaaps Traveland in Sioux Falls, SD. They were gracious enough to see us right away and confirmed that the motor was blown. They were able to get the cover off and the mechanism retracted manually (although with much effort on their part). They did not have the correct replacement motor so we are continuing east without the cover in place and will get a new motor at a later date.
Thanks for the responses.
We are indeed having a problem with the cover that goes over the interior steps on our 2010 Monaco Diplomat. The reason we thought the motor was blown was the "burned electrical" smell and the fact that northing would not move.
Since the original post we made it to Schaaps Traveland in Sioux Falls, SD. They were gracious enough to see us right away and confirmed that the motor was blown. They were able to get the cover off and the mechanism retracted manually (although with much effort on their part). They did not have the correct replacement motor so we are continuing east without the cover in place and will get a new motor at a later date.
Thanks for the responses.
Tom
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Thanks for the follow-up.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
There is a good chance that the motor is the same as used in electric car window. Take the old motor to a NAPA auto parts store and they may be able to match it. Less expensive too. Sometimes they can be identified by picture or part number too - try a search on Amazon and Ebay.
