still a newbie - leveling at home?

[esim134]

My driveway is slightly sloped at my house.  When I tried leveling with the auto jacks my back tires came off the ground about 1/4 of an inch.  I don't have leveling bubbles just yet so I'm not sure how far I'm off, although it seems quite a bit b/c of being off the ground.  I'd like to run the fridge so my question is.... for now, should I put some blocks under the tires then use the jacks, or stack blocks under the jacks and use the jacks?

Thanks!

 

[SeilerBird]

Unless you are at a pretty steep angle I wouldn't worry about leveling it for the refer. Modern refers are very tolerant of not being level. I live in a class A full time. I don't have jacks, I don't use boards and I don't even own levels. So long as I don't feel like I am in a fun house every thing is cool.

 

[Water Dog]

We park ours at home in our driveway and if I were to level it I would have my rear wheels slightly off the ground also. We don't worry about it being level at home and the fridge runs along just fine 24/7. As Tom suggested, the newer refrigerators don't have to be as level as they once did. If you are comfortable walking around, the fridge will be fine.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Newer fridges can tolerate up to about 3 degrees of angle fore-and-aft, That translates to nearly a foot of difference from end to end on a 32 footer. You are probably within that range.

It certainly wouldn't hurt to drive the back wheels up on some 2x10 blocks and put a similar block under the jack pads. That would give you an extra 1.5" of "lift" at the rear. A lumber year will cut a 2x10 into 24" lengths for you. You would need four for the rear tires and two more for the jacks.

 

[esim134]

Sounds great guys!  Now I can get my dad's voice outta my head... "It has to be level to run the fridge."  Ever since I was itty bitty I remember him saying that at EVERY campground.  It's great to know that isn't so anymore.

I'll still probably do as Gary says and get a set of 2x10s to keep at the house for when we bring her here to get her ready to roll. 

Happy Trails!

 

[godefroi]

Now I can get my dad's voice outta my head... "It has to be level to run the fridge."  Ever since I was itty bitty I remember him saying that at EVERY campground.

I hear my dad say that every time I even LOOK at an RV. Heck, my TT is sitting on the pad next to my house, level, right now, because of his voice in my head.

When I told him about this thread, he said:

Just keep your trailer level and your fridge will work and I won?t have to haunt you when the milk spoils.

 

[Lou Schneider]

When I tried leveling with the auto jacks my back tires came off the ground about 1/4 of an inch.

Keep in mind your parking brake only works on the rear axle.  If it's off the ground you're relying only on the jacks to keep the coach from rolling downhill - and they aren't made for that kind of stress.

It's a good idea to drive the rig up on planks any time you think the levelers may raise one end or the other off of the ground - but especially the rear end.

 

[ArdraF]

Also, you want it relatively level so that things like doors don't swing out and get in your way, especially when loading and unloading.  You really don't need to bang into something and maybe injure yourself.  We use the bathroom door as a guide.  It's fore-and-aft when closed, so if the door stays open at side-to-side the motorhome is level.  If you use bubble indicators, as long as most of the bubble is in the center circle, it's level enough.

ArdraF

 

[PatrioticStabilist]

Mine is likely one of those ancient ones that needs to be level.

What I'm impressed with is this thing doesn't rock without any leveling or jacks down, not when climibing in the door or anything.  I figure a lot of places I won't even level it.  Tom made our parking area level so no worry there.

But I will make sure it is if its on and I'm parked elsewhere.

 

[pkunk]

If it were me & I like to be safe, I'd just turn it around and let the front wheels be off the ground.  Level & secure, everyones happy. ;D

 

[BigDfromTN]

Newer fridges can tolerate up to about 3 degrees of angle fore-and-aft, That translates to nearly a foot of difference from end to end on a 32 footer. You are probably within that range.

It certainly wouldn't hurt to drive the back wheels up on some 2x10 blocks and put a similar block under the jack pads. That would give you an extra 1.5" of "lift" at the rear. A lumber year will cut a 2x10 into 24" lengths for you. You would need four for the rear tires and two more for the jacks.

Just curious...

What is the definition of "Newer"?

Thanks,

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

It varies by fridge make and model, but anything after about 1996 should be the newer cooling unit type. Probably any later than 1990 for the higher end brands/models, but I don't want to go too far out on a limb.

The fridge owner manual for your model should have a spec.

 

[BigDfromTN]

It varies by fridge make and model, but anything after about 1996 should be the newer cooling unit type. Probably any later than 1990 for the higher end brands/models, but I don't want to go too far out on a limb.

The fridge owner manual for your model should have a spec.

Thanks Gary, 

Mine is a 2005 Norcold gas/Elect. so I should be ok.  I will find and download a manual soon to verify.

Don

 

[godefroi]

Old thread, I know, but I happened to be reading through my fridge's manual, and it said that as long as the RV was "comfortably level", it was OK. It also specifically said that the fridge was OK to run while travelling, because the sloshing would keep the liquid ammonia out of the coils. Something I never would've done.