There’s still no combustion exhaust fan, unless they just couldn’t spell exhaust.
Still can't figure it out, furnace
- Thread starter rickther
- Start date
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rickther
Member
Sorry, I have been on a trip. Suburban SF-30FQ 2558 Ducted RV Camper Motorhome Trailer Furnace 30,000 BTU is the furnace.
I have checked the air flow and there aren't any obstructions.
The way the furnace is in, and my hearing, I cannot hear the igniter.
could not hear it when it was working.
could this be bad batteries? it is the only thing I have not changed (except thermostat, that seems to work). I am plugged into shore power so I don't understand that part.
I have checked the air flow and there aren't any obstructions.
The way the furnace is in, and my hearing, I cannot hear the igniter.
could not hear it when it was working.
could this be bad batteries? it is the only thing I have not changed (except thermostat, that seems to work). I am plugged into shore power so I don't understand that part.
So instead of replacing the sail switch, or igniter/ sensor, or high limit switch, or circuit board, you replaced the entire furnace, then the propane valve, then the inverter, …..next the batteries I presume. Meantime if it doesn’t work then I’d suggest, checking the sail switch, if it’s faulty the fan will come on but you won’t hear an attempt at ignition or ignition. It will try again twice more then go into fault and need to be reset.
Did you install a new or used furnace?
OldWEB
Well-known member
Now since you are having fun doing what you are doing, my turn...
Once air and fuel are "combusted" is it not technically "exhaust"? It is "exhausted" of its fuel, just like I am "exhausted" where you took this to.
rickther
Member
new furnace, and yes the sail switch works. this was bench tested at a dealer.
Now when the heater is installed, I can't see the switch. this unit doesn't have a door.
If it goes into fault mode, how is it reset.
Ray-IN
Well-known member
Sail switch is part of the furnace, not an add-on. So new furnace, new sail switch.
You couldn’t see it before it was installed. Remove the spade connectors and short them, if it ignites and continues to run it’s the sail switch. You can reset it with the switch on the furnace, turn it off and back on. There’s no magic solution.
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Kirk
Well-known member
It could be if they are bad enough. It takes at least 10.5V to have the blower motor in the furnace turn fast enough to close the sail switch. Direct current motor speed varies with the voltage supplied so as the voltage falls the blower slows and if it is getting less than 11V the power is suspect. That same thing is true of the converter output.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
While 105v is the spec'ed minimum voltage for furnace operation, my experience is that anything less than 11.5v is probably insufficient to drive the fan adequately. It varies by furnace size (btus) and how well (or poorly) it is ducted, but low voltage is a common issue.
Ray-IN
Well-known member
If I may add, and the amount of restriction(an unknown) in the duct-work may reduce air movement speed. I've read posts that described insufficient duct-work supplied by the RV mfgrs, causing enough restriction the furnace cannot operate to specifications.
Oops, upon re-reading your post I see you mentioned that.
Ray-IN
Well-known member
rick you might find something useful in this RV furnace pdf: iRV2 Forums - Files - RV Furnace Troubleshooting
