Storing a Class A for extended time.

[ChinMusic]

We are new to this and will be storing our Class indoors, in Utah for over 6 months.

I’ve done a quick search of the forum but didn’t find a complete list of dos and don’ts.

We will be having some experienced friends helping us with the process but the are not motorhome folks.

I’ve been told to fill the rig up with diesel to prevent condensation. Someone mentioned an additive but don’t know which one.

I think I’m solid on the draining of tanks but unsure of how to winterize a residential fridge (ice maker).

Food: can we leave spices in their glass/plastic bottles? Can dates, nuts be left in strong plastic containers?

Mice: deter them from entering and setting up shop. When we bought this rig used in Illinois there was LOTS of evidence of mice. Hate mice.

Any other suggestion are very welcome.

 

[SpencerPJ]

I would disconnect all batteries, simply take the grounds off. Right now I would check if they need water (di water) if wet cells. That way they will have a chance to charge after they are topped off.

 

[Rene T]

So it won’t see any freezing temps? I would probably winterize it it just like it was going to be very cold. Just in case something happens to you and you are unable to use it for a year.
I’ve got a question for the experts. I was thinking to fill all the tanks with water to keep the seals moist during storage. Will that water just eventually evaporate through the vents or is this a bad idea?

 

[Kirk]

What sort of temperatures will the coach experience? If indoors I'd leave the top vents open. If it will get below freezing you do need to use compressed air to blow all of the water out of the RV and don't forget to do the ice maker.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The good news...

• Utah is a relatively dry climate so few worries about humidity & condensation & mildew. I'd still have the fuel tank somewhere near full, though.
• Indoor storage means you can leave vents open a bit for air circulation and no sun (UV) damage.
• No worries about wind and rain, but still keep your comprehensive insurance active because fire & theft are still risks.

Things to worry about...

• Will there be freezing temperatures in the area? If so, you need to "winterize", i.e. drain all tanks & water lines and protect drain traps from freezing with antifreeze.
• Critters, e.g. mice. Seal any hidden openings as best you can - RVs are often riddled with them under the floor/basement. Put some traps around, maybe the home-made bucket style or other "multi-catch" trap. If you use a poison bait, make sure its the type that drives the mice to find water - you don't want dead mice in the walls or under the floor. Here's some other tips.
• Batteries, especially lead-acid types. Lead batteries need to be fully charged for storage and should be disconnected to minimize discharging. The built-in "battery disconnect" in the coach probably doesn't actually disconnect everything, so physically disconnecting is the preferred method. Lithium batteries are more forgiving, though.
• If the coach has the auto-generator start feature, make sure it's turned off so the generator doesn't try to run while inside the building.

Winterizing a residential fridge icemaker can be a pain. Here's Whirlpools recommendation on how-too:

Winterizing a Refrigerator

producthelp.whirlpool.com

 

[Kirk]

Winterizing a residential fridge icemaker can be a pain.

For an RV fridge it can be also, but I learned to disconnect the water connection on the downstream side of the valve and just blow it out with air. But it is also important to do the same on the supply side of that valve.

 

[Larry N.]

If it will get below freezing you do need to use compressed air to blow all of the water out of the RV

For a standard RV furnace that's fine, but with Aqua Hot (or Oasis-- any hydronic system) that's not good enough, and could lead to expensive damage if it freezes. You'll want the pink RV antifreeze in the hot water side. The Aqua Hot manual for my Beaver specifically stated that it was nearly impossible to blow enough water out to prevent damage to the boiler, so on both the Beaver and on the Ventana I ran pink stuff through the hot side- good protection.

 

[John From Detroit]

In days of old they advised "Mothballing" an engine to be left months on end... Never done that Seen several engines that sat for years and fired up like new once the starting battery was replaced.

 

[ChinMusic]

I was wrong about being indoors. We will be outdoors near Salt Lake City.

So far I have done the following:
Drained and rinsed out black tank
Drained gray tank
Drained fresh tank
Drained hot water tank
Attached pressured air (35psi) to water intake
Turned on all hot fixtures til air came out
Turned on all cold fixtures til air came out
Cleaned out residential fridge
Turned on fridge water til it blew air (not sure if this was good enough but best we could do so far)
Turned on an blew out W/D per directions
Added some RV antifreeze to sinks, shower and toilet
Filled fuel tanks on both RV and Jeep and added fuel stabilizers
Removed all food sources (was told they don’t see many mice at this place)

If I forgot something I will edit. If you guys suggest more I will do it and edit. I try to make these types of threads easy for future newbies.

 

[Ray-IN]

Mice/rodents; remove all foodstuffs, then wash all counters, interior of fridge and food prep areas with a bleach solution to remove all traces of food odors and crumbs.
if rodents can't find any food or water nearby they are much less prone to build a nest.
JIC, I dropped rodent squares down into the sub-floor at plumbing/wiring access holes. Down there pets nor small children can access the poison.
I do not trust winterizing with compressed air. I tried it a few times, then to double check I pumped RV antifreeze through the lines too, and always got at least a pint of clear water out before pink began showing.
You must pour a cup of RV antifreeze down each drain anyway, regardless of winterizing method.
Splendide has a specific winterizing procedure on their website under documents. Compressed air will not clear the pump or trap of water.

Inflate all tires to sidewall maximum and store on the leveling jacks to remove weight from tires. If sun will be on tires, cover them with pieces of old paneling or purchased covers to prevent sun rot.

 

[Excalibur]

In addition to all the above, which are all good notes, did you blow out the antifreeze suction line on your water pump? The check valve in the water pump will prevent your getting all the water out of the pump unless you do. Lots of people miss that one.Also make sure you remove not only the foodstuffs, including spices, but anything else that could freeze, like any ointments or meds in your first aid kit,water filter cartridges because no amount of air will dry them sufficiently to not freeze, any liquids in your tool kit like lubricants, any sprays, etc. The only liquid I leave in mine is the Coleman fuel for my old grill.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

I've had good success blowing water lines with air. I like how it simplifies the dewinterize process.

Heads up about antifreeze poured into drains. Eventually it can evaporate and the airlock to the tank isn't there anymore. Not a big problem but the first time it happened to me I had to figure out why the inside of the RV smelled funky. Now, after I pour in the pink I install the sink drain plugs and cover the shower drain.

Pink stuff in the toilet will evaporate quickly from the bowl. I put in a couple glugs of olive oil. It helps preserve the seal and won't evaporate.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[ChinMusic]

In addition to all the above, which are all good notes, did you blow out the antifreeze suction line on your water pump? The check valve in the water pump will prevent your getting all the water out of the pump unless you do. Lots of people miss that one.

I reread your post and now understand exactly what you meant but now I’m home in Alaska. I did find the pump and saw that might be a problem. I guess I could have blown air once I turned the value but I chose to just suck up some antifreeze instead. I’ll have some pink to drain once I return but that’s OK.

 

[ChinMusic]

I feel 99.9% confident that I’m sufficiently winterized. Everything but the pump, fridge and Splendide was straight forward. I added a product I saw at Camping World that is said to protect the toilet seal instead of the olive oil.

Since this is a used rig the directions for things were difficult to find. The previous owner had things seemingly well organized but winterizing info was scant to non-existent.

We did have info on the Splendide so I’m 100% we got that.

The fridge had zero information so we were on our own. Our strategy was to blow air and use the water source as you would a sink drain. Just demand water til it was just air. That left the icemaker. The only think I could think of was to just let it make ice and demand more water. It product just a couple cubes and then quit making more. The trays for the cubes were unfilled. What water that remained in the trays is designed to be frozen. Fingers crossed.

I chose to protect the pump by sucking up a little antifreeze. I guess I could have blown that out input hose akin to the city water but didn’t. I wasn’t sure where I’d be pushing that little amount of water so figured antifreeze was safer there.

Thanks for taking the time to help a newbie out.