Stupid Carpentry Question

[Stonefeather]

Ok,

I've got the TT back from the deer lease (bagged a 14 pt he he!) Also managed to not mess up the TT being out in the middle of nowhere! Now I have to deal with a few problems that have come up since I purchased this TT almost a year ago. The brass fitting inside wall from city water supply was not Teflon-ed and had a mist which wound up on the floor, now there is a soft spot in the bathroom floor. Got the fitting teflon-ed and no more leak, that is until I managed to crack the bottom of the tub. Had water running out into the floor and under a wall into the bunk bed area floor just behind the bathroom wall. Got some caulk on the tub for now and it's doing the trick but certainly not a permanent fix. I appreciate all the feedback on my prior posts/questions. You guys are the greatest, and it would be a pleasure to sit by the fire with one and all!

Since I am not using the TT for the next few months I would like to pull the commode, shower/tub, and replace the flooring in there where the soft spot is. Now I'm a fairly good carpenter/plumber but never on an RV. Any suggestions? How far apart are the floor "joists"?

A case of virtual beer to the man or woman with the best reply!!!

Thanks,
Cody

 

[kjansen]

That sounds like one of those projects that you really don't know what you have until you dig in.  You may have to screw in cross hangers to support the seams in the new flooring.  I wish manufactures would use treated ply for floors.  If I win the beer, please email it to me.

 

[Joezeppy]

Cody,

I did the same thing about 4 years ago to fix some water damage in my prior TT (my damage was from outside water getting in - it was not plumbing related). To quote Keven, "you really don't know what you have until you dig in". I just took it one step at a time. Pulled the toilet, took off the access panel to the tub, then the plumbing, then the tub itself,...

Once I had the bathroom void of "furniture", I peeled up the flooring and cut away the bad OSB, replaced the wet insulation and treated the area to get rid of mold that had formed. I seem to remember the floor joists about 24" on center but can't remember for sure. This might vary from brand to brand anyway. There were no real strange surprises in the construction methods that I found.

It was not a mentally or physically challenging job, just tedious working in cramped quarters.

Good luck!

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

There is no standard spacing for floor joists or anything else in an RV - it is very much an ad hoc design. The walls are built off the rig and installed on top of the floors. Ditto for cabinetry, so you will have to cut away the soft flooring with a saber saw, rotary cutter, or a skil saw using a kerf cut.  It is very much a case of feeling your way around.  The black waste tank will be more-or-less directly underneath the commode and shower and sink drains may run just under the floor as well, so be careful.

I'd say that Joezeppy's experience is typical.

 

[Wyotraveler]

I have never replaced a tub in an RV. However, I have replaced several tubs in rental property. The problem is not taking out the old tub. You can cut it up and remove it. The problem is getting the new tub into the unit. #1 Will it fit through the door? #2 Usually a tub is taken into the area vertically, then lowered into place. Is the diagonal distance from the bottom of the front of the tub to the top of the rear of the tub greater than the wall length where you are placing the tub? Normally in a home bathroom you have to remove all of the surface covering the studs. Lower the tub into place between the studs, then slide it into place. Then replace the wall covering. Before I bought a new tub I would take all measurements on the new proposed tub and formulate a plan how it is going to be installed.
That is why you see shower stalls etc at Home Depot that come in sections. In New construction the large items are added prior to walls, doors, roofs etc.

 

[1275gtsport]

a couple of years ago we gutted a 1974 class c the floor was 24 OC and walls were 16 OC from what I remember. the "floor joist" were just 2x4 and the "studs" were 2x3.
in mine the tub was "raised" on a platform to allow the drain to be above the floor. I really can not tell you if the tub would have come through the bathroom door or not as the wall was removed before I got to taking the tub out. but I think it would have. I know the fridge would not go out through the "house" door. Just glad that when we removed the front passengers seat and the dinette we were able to wiggle it out through there. It would have fit through the big window but didn't want to take it out that way.

You will find rot, and mold. lots of it. treat it.

Good luck.

 

[John From Detroit]

N ever put a tub in an RV either.. However if I ever re-do this rig to replace the shower with a tub (And I do think about it.. from time to time) the tub will likely come in via an emergency escape window.  That said. My windows are very "large" and re-lockable, Not all are (Take you pick of which) -

 

[Motor]

Once ready to cut floor, set circular saw blade at 1/2", then 5/8", then 3/4" depth if necessary just until you see it has cut all the way through floor. Do a spot to test. If it takes more than 3/4", cut another test elsewhere to make sure your not on a joist. Usually 5/8"- 3/4" it's not usually thicker than 3/4".  That way you can cut all around bad spot and not damage anything under floor.  If not built up under tub, floor should be attached to joists below. If you have vinyl underbelly, you can usually push up from underneath and feel joists and measure there. If metal underbelly, they are usually secured(staples or screws) at joists as well so you should see that as well. Either way you have to cut out bad spot anyway, which after cut is made, pry it out and then you can feel for joists/bracing from there, or slide measuring tape under floor to measure to joist and cut to them if necessary. 12", 16" and 24" are all used in some areas.  You can always attach more for installation if necessary, if seam is in middle,or just cut pieces from material for new floor 4" or 5" and longer than seam if possible and glue and screw at half width point on underside for dropping new piece in for screw and glue as well. If your underbelly is easy to remove under it, that may be your best spot for access to install all support necessary.

 

[Stonefeather]

Thanks all,

Some of the best carpentry/home repair jobs start out with " Alls it's gonna take is..."
With the feedback I received here I am sure the job will be less challenging than I imagined thanks to all the input!

I'll let ya know how it goes in a couple of months as I get caught up and begin work.

Cody

 

[pricejh]

Cody,

I've got two words for you...Dremel Multi-Max and Saw-Max.  I've use the multi-max several times to get into tight spaces and remove plywood and/or drywall.  It cuts well and is much easier to control than any skill or saber saw. 

John