Suburban SAW6DE
- Thread starter jeeardman
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Rene T
Site Team
Welcome to the forum.
Wouldn’t it have been a lot easier to replace it with a Atwood/Dometic water heater
Wouldn’t it have been a lot easier to replace it with a Atwood/Dometic water heater
CharlesinGA
Well-known member
The problem is, Dometic no longer makes a direct replacement for the old design Atwood/Dometic Dometic GC6AA-10E or other variations of it. You have to use an adapter kit and do some cutting in the side of the RV and if there is something real tight on top of the old unit, the new one may not fit. I am partial to the aluminum tanks of the Atwood Dometic line but they have shot themselves in the foot on this one. Suburban has introduced direct fit replacements for the old design Atwood/Dometic, so that is the reason for the dealer recommendation.
The letter A in the model number SAW6DE stands for Advantage, which is what Suburban is calling their direct fit replacements for the Atwood/Dometic models. Advantage Direct Fit Water Heater for RVs & Campers - Suburban
Suburban will not make available manuals for their newer equipment and "require" professional installation. If yours came with a manual, then you will have to follow it. It will have 120v AC "romex" to the OUTSIDE of the water heater thru a knockout in the forward or rear portion of the mounting pan, and I think the 12v DC wiring is basically the same as the Atwood, with a 12v ground, fault, gas, and electric control wires. Suburban has begun using a relay to control the 120v AC heat element now, instead of the old manual switch on the outside (always thought that was rather stupid)
The Dometic you are removing has the 120v AC but it is going to the inboard side of the water heater. Hopefully it is long enough to reroute to the outboard side, if not, and the electrical panel is very close, I would simply re-run a new piece of 14 gauge Romex from the panel to the connections at the relay on the water heater. If it is not feasible to replace the wire, then you will have to splice it, and there are now inline splices for Romex that code allows you to use in a "enclosed " area without having to put the splices in a junction box.
It would help to see the wiring you have now at the water heater, as many RV manufacturers do not follow the color codes of the appliance manufacturers. For example, Dometic uses green for ground, however the RV manufacturers use white almost all the time.
Charles
The letter A in the model number SAW6DE stands for Advantage, which is what Suburban is calling their direct fit replacements for the Atwood/Dometic models. Advantage Direct Fit Water Heater for RVs & Campers - Suburban
Suburban will not make available manuals for their newer equipment and "require" professional installation. If yours came with a manual, then you will have to follow it. It will have 120v AC "romex" to the OUTSIDE of the water heater thru a knockout in the forward or rear portion of the mounting pan, and I think the 12v DC wiring is basically the same as the Atwood, with a 12v ground, fault, gas, and electric control wires. Suburban has begun using a relay to control the 120v AC heat element now, instead of the old manual switch on the outside (always thought that was rather stupid)
The Dometic you are removing has the 120v AC but it is going to the inboard side of the water heater. Hopefully it is long enough to reroute to the outboard side, if not, and the electrical panel is very close, I would simply re-run a new piece of 14 gauge Romex from the panel to the connections at the relay on the water heater. If it is not feasible to replace the wire, then you will have to splice it, and there are now inline splices for Romex that code allows you to use in a "enclosed " area without having to put the splices in a junction box.
It would help to see the wiring you have now at the water heater, as many RV manufacturers do not follow the color codes of the appliance manufacturers. For example, Dometic uses green for ground, however the RV manufacturers use white almost all the time.
Charles
CharlesinGA
Well-known member
My bet is the Suburban model you have still has the manual rocker switch on the outside. Look on the outside of the heater, LH lower corner and see if there is a rocker switch. If so, that is how you turn the electric heat element on and off. My guess is that the two wires you show are the ground and a power to operate the gas side of the heater.
Had the dealer sold you a DEL model rather than a DE, you would not be going thru all of this. The DEL would be the EXACT replacement as it uses the relay to control the 120v AC heater element, just as a Dometic does. See page 12 of 16 in this catalog... https://suburbanrv.com/files/catalogs/axl-sub12212020-02ga_gas-appliances-12-2020.pdf
Tank Water Heater Controls for RVs & Campers - Suburban
This is the control for the DEL, same as your Dometic.
This is the control for the D, DE, and DEM
To be honest, If you have not yet installed the heater, I would take the whole thing back and get a Dometic unit and the adapter kit which is a new door that covers the filler plates and the filler plates themselves and then buy some butyl and Dicor sealant. The Suburban uses and anode rod you will be replacing every year or two.
Charles
Had the dealer sold you a DEL model rather than a DE, you would not be going thru all of this. The DEL would be the EXACT replacement as it uses the relay to control the 120v AC heater element, just as a Dometic does. See page 12 of 16 in this catalog... https://suburbanrv.com/files/catalogs/axl-sub12212020-02ga_gas-appliances-12-2020.pdf
Tank Water Heater Controls for RVs & Campers - Suburban
This is the control for the DEL, same as your Dometic.
This is the control for the D, DE, and DEM
To be honest, If you have not yet installed the heater, I would take the whole thing back and get a Dometic unit and the adapter kit which is a new door that covers the filler plates and the filler plates themselves and then buy some butyl and Dicor sealant. The Suburban uses and anode rod you will be replacing every year or two.
Charles
Last edited:
CharlesinGA
Well-known member
All of this begs the question, why are you replacing the original water heater?
Dometic water heater conversion kits
Dometic Water Heater Door Assembly 6 Gal - Black- 6 Gallon Door Assembly (Fits Older Atwood/Dometic Units)
Dometic Water Heater Door Assembly 6 Gal - White- 6 Gallon Door Assembly (Fits Older Atwood/Dometic Units)
Top link is BLACK and second link is WHITE
Dometic WH-6GEA - 6 Gal Water Heater - Gas/Electric
From Amazon $499 https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-Dometic-WH-6GEA-Heater-94002BP/dp/B08Q4LN7M9/ref=sr_1_5?crid=U6YGF8MGW5F9&keywords=WH-6GEA&qid=1654573527&sprefix=wh-6gea,aps,104&sr=8-5
Though the pic does not show the adapter plates, the description says they are included. $54.99
Dometic 6-Gallon Water Heater Conversion Kit, White
Same kit from E-trailer https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dometic/DMC84FR.html
Dometic water heater conversion kits
Dometic Water Heater Door Assembly 6 Gal - Black- 6 Gallon Door Assembly (Fits Older Atwood/Dometic Units)
Dometic Water Heater Door Assembly 6 Gal - White- 6 Gallon Door Assembly (Fits Older Atwood/Dometic Units)
Top link is BLACK and second link is WHITE
Dometic WH-6GEA - 6 Gal Water Heater - Gas/Electric
From Amazon $499 https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-Dometic-WH-6GEA-Heater-94002BP/dp/B08Q4LN7M9/ref=sr_1_5?crid=U6YGF8MGW5F9&keywords=WH-6GEA&qid=1654573527&sprefix=wh-6gea,aps,104&sr=8-5
Though the pic does not show the adapter plates, the description says they are included. $54.99
Dometic 6-Gallon Water Heater Conversion Kit, White
Same kit from E-trailer https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dometic/DMC84FR.html
Last edited:
CharlesinGA
Well-known member
Your Dometic 12v wiring is Blue=fault light, GREEN=ground, WHITE=electric heater control, ORANGE=gas heater control.
CharlesinGA
Well-known member
If your tank froze and split, it CAN easily be welded, any good weld shop can do it. If disassembly is required, you break the two rings around the fire tubes and separate it from the mounting pan. New ring kit is p/n 96010 and can be found on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-Mobile-Products-96010-Gasket-Std/dp/B002UC4VMY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=21BYVXNNYCPQO&keywords=91641+atwood+tank&qid=1654577087&sprefix=91641,aps,113&sr=8-5
Installation of the new rings requires a section of 2½ inch ID pipe and a mallet to drive the rings in place.
If you need a new tank, the old style is still available on Amazon, p/n 91060 and you also need the ring kit above. Amazon.com: Atwood 91060 Inner Tank : Automotive
Charles
Installation of the new rings requires a section of 2½ inch ID pipe and a mallet to drive the rings in place.
If you need a new tank, the old style is still available on Amazon, p/n 91060 and you also need the ring kit above. Amazon.com: Atwood 91060 Inner Tank : Automotive
Charles
Last edited:
davispg
New member
I have the same issue. I have a two switch already in my RV, one to turn Gas on and off and one to turn electric on and off. Can I wire the Gas on and off to the red and green wires and the Elec on and off to the wires going to the rocker switch wires and to move the switch to my switch inside the RV?
CharlesinGA
Well-known member
Lets start from scratch.
What brand/exact model of water heater are you removing?
What brand/exact model of water heater are you installing?
I ask to just make sure we understand what you want to do.
Charles
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
The key to doing this sort of upgrade correctly is to determine if the electric mode switch is handling 12vdc or 120vac. Atwood/Dometic changed the method of switching electric heat on/off from external direct-switched 120vac to the use of a 12vdc relay on the heater itself. This changed occurred with the introduction of the -4e and -10e Atwood models in 2003. That's why we need to know what you are removing and what replacement you will use. Also, some RV brands added their own 12v relay as a remote control for the external 120v switching. That was mostly in the upper tier brands.
Last edited:
davispg
New member
RV is a Jayco JayFlight G2 2009
Removing an Atwood GC6AA-10E
Installing a Suburban SAW6DE
Removing an Atwood GC6AA-10E
Installing a Suburban SAW6DE
davispg
New member
CharlesinGA
Well-known member
What is wrong with the Atwood? Fairly easily repairable, even so far as welding the tank if split from freezing. (and replacement tanks are still available also)
Also, Dometic sells and adapter kit and new door to install their new water heater in place of the old ones. Aluminum tank is much better than a steel one in my opinion.
Had you bought a SAW6DEL (p/n 5322A) you would be wiring it exactly the same as the Atwood. The suffix L models have a build in relay that allows the 12v switch panel to control a relay to turn the 120v AC heat element on, exactly as the Atwood did.
Suburban 5322A RV Water Heater DSI 6 Gallon SAW6DEL
Now, to use the rocker switch panel to control the water heater's electric element, you will either need to install a relay on your own, or install a 120v rated switch with proper wiring (insulation good to at least 300 volts) and no exposed terminals or connections.
Charles
Also, Dometic sells and adapter kit and new door to install their new water heater in place of the old ones. Aluminum tank is much better than a steel one in my opinion.
Had you bought a SAW6DEL (p/n 5322A) you would be wiring it exactly the same as the Atwood. The suffix L models have a build in relay that allows the 12v switch panel to control a relay to turn the 120v AC heat element on, exactly as the Atwood did.
Suburban 5322A RV Water Heater DSI 6 Gallon SAW6DEL
Now, to use the rocker switch panel to control the water heater's electric element, you will either need to install a relay on your own, or install a 120v rated switch with proper wiring (insulation good to at least 300 volts) and no exposed terminals or connections.
Charles
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
As Charles described, the Dometic/Atwood -10e has a 12v switching relay built-in, but the SAWDE does not. The Atwood switch is a 12v rated and designed to trigger the 10e relay. The 120v power to the Atwood heater went directly to the relay and only 12v flows thru the switch panel.
You can add your own relay near the heater to switch the 120v black hot line on/off using the panel switch. They aren't expensive, probably under $20. Any single pole relay with a secondary rated for at least 120v and 20A is sufficient. An easy alternative is to place a wireless switch somewhere in the 120v power line to the heater and use the wireless control rather than the existing panel switch.
A shortcut possibility is to hardwire the 120v to the SAWDE so that it is essentially always on and use one of two methods to switch it on/off. The SAWDE has a switch on the heater itself, and you also have the water heater circuit breaker in your RV load center (breaker box). Either one serves the purpose. Not elegant but 100% effective.
Changing the existing panel switch to 120v/20A is the most difficult change because you have to re-route the 120v feed to the heater to the switch as well as changing the switch itself. Not worth the effort, in my opinion.
You can add your own relay near the heater to switch the 120v black hot line on/off using the panel switch. They aren't expensive, probably under $20. Any single pole relay with a secondary rated for at least 120v and 20A is sufficient. An easy alternative is to place a wireless switch somewhere in the 120v power line to the heater and use the wireless control rather than the existing panel switch.
A shortcut possibility is to hardwire the 120v to the SAWDE so that it is essentially always on and use one of two methods to switch it on/off. The SAWDE has a switch on the heater itself, and you also have the water heater circuit breaker in your RV load center (breaker box). Either one serves the purpose. Not elegant but 100% effective.
Changing the existing panel switch to 120v/20A is the most difficult change because you have to re-route the 120v feed to the heater to the switch as well as changing the switch itself. Not worth the effort, in my opinion.
Wesindieriver
Member
I have the exact same question how did you make out,? Were you able to get this connected correctly?
Wesindieriver
Member
So how Should you connect those four wires to the suburban tank with only red blue green wires coming out?
CharlesinGA
Well-known member
From the Atwood or Dometic switch panel the gas heat wire, which was ORANGE on the Atwood heater, connects to the Suburban's RED wire. The Blue wire from the Atwood WH to the fault light is supplied by a BLUE wire on the Suburban. The Atwoods GREEN ground wire (which runs from the WH to the switch panel fault light and to chassis ground, connects on the Suburban to the GREEN wire.
Since you do not have a SAW6DEL model you cannot hook up the Atwood electric WH switch (white wire) unless you build a relay box to control the 120v. Instead you will have to use the red switch on the outside of the water heater.
People are being sold the wrong water heater to replace the Atwood with the dual switch panel.
Charles
Since you do not have a SAW6DEL model you cannot hook up the Atwood electric WH switch (white wire) unless you build a relay box to control the 120v. Instead you will have to use the red switch on the outside of the water heater.
People are being sold the wrong water heater to replace the Atwood with the dual switch panel.
Charles
