Good point on the 4 wire vs. 2 wire. Our telephone wiring was originally only 2 wire and I had to splice the other pair in order to support 2 phone lines (a long time ago). That's why I could use the existing wiring to run the display and avoided a long, difficult, run of new cable. It was also made simple as the HW50C is in the same bay as the telephone jack and the display in in the same cabinet as an existing telephone jack.
Surge protection Question
- Thread starter Art In Mobile
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
My remote display is mounted on the side of the bed platform and not far from the power line monitor (mine is integrated with the transfer switch). It's not a great location for the display, but it sure made the wiring easy.
W
Weewun
Guest
I am going to order the HW50C. I will verify that the existing Phone Cable connectors are 4-wire and if not will connect the missing wires assuming the existing cable has 4 wires. I assume the the connection from the HW50C control unit is a 4-wire cable with standard phone connectors.
In another thread Tom stated that he had to remove his Power Cord Reel to install the Control Unit and that he wished he had taken pictures before removal. I think Tom has a Camelot and therefore the Power Bay is probably very similar to his.
Tom did you have to remove the Reel because of the length of the wires from the Reel to the Xfer Switch and what should I be careful of in removing and replacing the Reel???
In another thread Tom stated that he had to remove his Power Cord Reel to install the Control Unit and that he wished he had taken pictures before removal. I think Tom has a Camelot and therefore the Power Bay is probably very similar to his.
Tom did you have to remove the Reel because of the length of the wires from the Reel to the Xfer Switch and what should I be careful of in removing and replacing the Reel???
Tom
Administrator
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2005
- Posts
- 52,008
Paul,
It doesn't appear that you received a response.
Looking at the technical specs, it appears that the Citel does not provide for circuit interruption in the way that SurgeGard does. The varistors in the Citel will clamp the voltage in the event of a spike, and thermal fuses merely protect the varistors. There does not appear to be provision to disconnect the power source or provision to prevent power from coming on in the event of a mis-wired power post.
The DS210D is also designed to be pluggable and, without seeing the details, I don't know if/how one would connect to it in the way I connected the SurgeGard in our coach, i.e. if one could connect wires to the fixed base.
It doesn't appear that you received a response.
Looking at the technical specs, it appears that the Citel does not provide for circuit interruption in the way that SurgeGard does. The varistors in the Citel will clamp the voltage in the event of a spike, and thermal fuses merely protect the varistors. There does not appear to be provision to disconnect the power source or provision to prevent power from coming on in the event of a mis-wired power post.
The DS210D is also designed to be pluggable and, without seeing the details, I don't know if/how one would connect to it in the way I connected the SurgeGard in our coach, i.e. if one could connect wires to the fixed base.
cekkk
Member
Carl L said:
On the 30 amp portable at above site I'm seeing a complaint that the inlet wire is too short to clear many boxes. Is that a real concern in your experience?
maddog348
Well-known member
Have never had a problem with our 30 amper. We use a bungi to snub it close to the pole to keep from pulling loose.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
I can see where that short cord could be a problem in some places. At best you would be unable to close the cover on the power outlet box (technically an electrical code violation) and at worst you might not be able to plug it in at all, though I think that would be rare. The bungi cord trick would work nearly all the time, I would think.
You might want to make up a short 30A extension to make things more convenient. It would be easy to convert a standard 30A-Female/50A-Male adapter by replacing the 50A male with a 30A male plug. Not cheap though (about $30-$35 total?).
You might want to make up a short 30A extension to make things more convenient. It would be easy to convert a standard 30A-Female/50A-Male adapter by replacing the 50A male with a 30A male plug. Not cheap though (about $30-$35 total?).
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Why not just wack a couple of feet off a standard RV extension cord and add the needed ends, male & female, to it?
Or pick up a female pigtail and put a plug on the end (most of those are 12-18 inches)
Or pick up a female pigtail and put a plug on the end (most of those are 12-18 inches)
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Because a 30A cord is $35 plus shipping and you still have to buy the "other end"? A pigtail or dogbone at $15-$20 is a better deal.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Well... I did make that suggestion too 
What I"d do at 30 amps is get a female pigtail and a Camco Power Pull plug.. Why the Camco plug, cause I like the handle, that's why.. No other reason (They do, on occasion, prevent closing of the box door)
What I"d do at 30 amps is get a female pigtail and a Camco Power Pull plug.. Why the Camco plug, cause I like the handle, that's why.. No other reason (They do, on occasion, prevent closing of the box door)
