Surge Protectors

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When we went to live in our camper for a year to but our house we wired up my parents shed and the guy doing our outlet hookup though we were putting a mobile home and put 240 to my 30a camper. Let's say I had to buy a new circuit box for the indside and the only problem we've found or saw was the light over the stove doesn't work. It did fry our tv and microwave but we replaced that. Always check the voltage. Way cheaper to do that.
 
La_Wx_Nut said:
When we went to live in our camper for a year to but our house we wired up my parents shed and the guy doing our outlet hookup though we were putting a mobile home and put 240 to my 30a camper. Let's say I had to buy a new circuit box for the indside and the only problem we've found or saw was the light over the stove doesn't work. It did fry our tv and microwave but we replaced that. Always check the voltage. Way cheaper to do that.

The electrician probably hooked you up to 240 volts that's why it fried all your stuff. The light over your stove, is it part of the range hood. If it is, you probably have a blown 12 volt fuse. You'll have to locate the 12 volt fuse panel and locate the bad fuse.
 
for what i remember ive check all the fuses, but cannot find anything blown. We hardly use it and the fan still works so we just havent worried about it.
 
La_Wx_Nut said:
for what i remember ive check all the fuses, but cannot find anything blown. We hardly use it and the fan still works so we just havent worried about it.

If the fan still works, you don't have a blown fuse. They are on the same circuit. Did you check the bulb to see if it's burnt out?

I just happened to think, Is the fan and light on the range hood or is the light separate from the fan and maybe it's mounted in the ceiling?  :eek:
 
La_Wx_Nut said:
no its built into the hood. Weve replaced the light bulb but no luck.

I's got to be something simple right there. Either a broken wire, or the wire came disconnected from the backside of the switch. Try removing the switch and jumper the two leads on the switch. If the light goes on, then you have a bad switch.
 
Rene T said:
The electrician probably hooked you up to 240 volts that's why it fried all your stuff. The light over your stove, is it part of the range hood. If it is, you probably have a blown 12 volt fuse. You'll have to locate the 12 volt fuse panel and locate the bad fuse.

Yes he did (and in fact the reason I know this (100% sure) is that the text you quoted included that fact).

This is why I tell people "IF you are hiring the job done, Have them put in a 50" (well 3/4 of the reason) electricians almost never screw up a 50 amp install since they fully understand it,, But many are the stories like the one you replied to where the electrician took a look at the TT-30, NEVER read the text (max 125vac) printed on it, and hooked it up like it was for a dryer, Welder or Air compressor needing 240 volts.

The reaming quarter reason:  Way easier to upgrade to 50 amps if you put in 50 to start with.
 
John From Detroit said:
Yes he did (and in fact the reason I know this (100% sure) is that the text you quoted included that fact).

I must have had a brain cramp or a senior moment. Thanks John.
 
Rene T said:
I's got to be something simple right there. Either a broken wire, or the wire came disconnected from the backside of the switch. Try removing the switch and jumper the two leads on the switch. If the light goes on, then you have a bad switch.

Ill have to check that out. Thanks.
 
John From Detroit said:
Yes he did (and in fact the reason I know this (100% sure) is that the text you quoted included that fact).

This is why I tell people "IF you are hiring the job done, Have them put in a 50" (well 3/4 of the reason) electricians almost never screw up a 50 amp install since they fully understand it,, But many are the stories like the one you replied to where the electrician took a look at the TT-30, NEVER read the text (max 125vac) printed on it, and hooked it up like it was for a dryer, Welder or Air compressor needing 240 volts.

The reaming quarter reason:  Way easier to upgrade to 50 amps if you put in 50 to start with.

Well he was not paid. He never saw the trailer, so he didnt quite know. But whats worse, i saw him testing  it and showing 240 on his meter. It never clicked to me, and once i plugged it up, and turned it on, the tv blew and started smoking. Once i relaized what happened, i thought about it and could have prevented it all from happening. Guess sometimes you have to learn the hard way. Biggest hit was replacing the fuse box.
 
You should not have had to replace the fuse box (But you may have had to replace a converter which is often bolted to the back side of the breaker/fuse box,  NOTE: you could have replaced just that part and with an upgraded unit at that.. Remember this  Progressive Dynamics 4600 line is often a replacement for the ELECTRONICS portion of that assembly).

I have read of RVers who did their own 240 volt @ 30 amp install...  So do not feel bad.

When I put in mine it was 120 volt at 20 amps, but it was a TT-30 outlet.. Handy as where i put it it powered the lawn mower (Electric) rather well. Or the RV,  Just needed an adapter puck for the mower.
 
John From Detroit said:
You should not have had to replace the fuse box (But you may have had to replace a converter which is often bolted to the back side of the breaker/fuse box,  NOTE: you could have replaced just that part and with an upgraded unit at that.. Remember this  Progressive Dynamics 4600 line is often a replacement for the ELECTRONICS portion of that assembly).

I have read of RVers who did their own 240 volt @ 30 amp install...  So do not feel bad.

When I put in mine it was 120 volt at 20 amps, but it was a TT-30 outlet.. Handy as where i put it it powered the lawn mower (Electric) rather well. Or the RV,  Just needed an adapter puck for the mower.

thats what i meant, just couldnt think of the name. Well i guess its a lesson learned. I had wired up our old house to run out tt and i did it just right, and the electrician messed it up. go figure.
 
Was reading the secs on the Intella Power (PDI) 4600 Electroincs replacment package

it says it has overvoltage protection, not sure which side of the box has it but I do know there are a couple different types of converters,,, The good ones will not be destroyed by 240 volts.  They either shut down (Self protect) or work normally on the too high voltage.

I know this, I have a Progressive Dynamics Intellapower 9180 with optional wizard,,  Functionaly to the one I describe above, and a better converter... has yet to be sold.
 
We had the opportunity, finally, to plug in our surge guard at the camp where we spend one night shaking down our unit.  All three lights turned green and I felt confident that the power to the unit was clean.  Spent the night without event.
 

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