Survey of CRT TV to LCD replacements

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
FrontrangeRVer said:
I like Jeff's idea of just putting in a 32" flatscreen in the FRONT of the cutout.  I haven't done it yet because I am not in a rush to throw away our perfectly good Sony 26" tube TV, as we aren't fulltiming quite yet.

We put a 40" Vizio in front of the LR cabinet in our Horizon 40FD.  Works great.  The Vizio has a variable audio output which enabled us to use the factory surround sound.
 
Well, I have to re-do my conversion to LCD. The 32? Emerson we bought just under 12 mo ago for m-i-l in hospice, then installed in the mh after her death, would not come on. They have a 12 mo parts warranty, but the closest "approved" service place is apx 100 miles away. I took it to a local shop. For $27 shop fee they said the power supply was bad ...and they could not get a new one as all their suppliers said it was an obsolete part.  I called Emerson. They said I voided the warranty when I went to a non-approved shop (which I already figured ...likely voided it earlier when I opened the case to solder in the "wort" cable for the surround sound system). They didn't have a power supply either, and estimated cost would be apx $90 if/when they have one to sell me. I need the TV this week as we depart on an extended journey on Friday, so decided it is not worth fixing. I got a Vizio 32", this one with analog audio out jacks so I don't need to add the "wort". It is slightly smaller all around, so I may have to make new trim pieces ...we'll see when we get the MH back from the shop tomorrow or Tues (another long story).  After some on-line research I did come to one conclusion ...NEVER BUY an EMERSON TV. They have a horrible track record.
 
That's a shame Paul!  I bought a cheapie Westinghouse HD-TV about three years ago for the stick house and all of a sudden the HDMI input stopped working.  Westinghouse customer service said it was a problem with changing HDMI interface specifications, sure it was  ::).  (I seriously doubt that.) 

The component video still works (for 720P), so it's the bedroom TV now.  Vizio is an okay brand, we replaced an old flat panel in the coach bedroom with an LED Vizio, nice TV.
 
A little off the topic - I guess I need to knock on wood. I have a 55" Vizio in the family room and a Dynex (Best Buy) in the office and bedroom in the S&B. All two+ years old, all working fine - In the Motor Home I have a Jensen in the Bedroom, a Magnavox in the entertainment center and a Samsung above the windshield. Again, knock on wood, the only problem was the Magnavox that I had to reset to factory setting a couple times. Worst luck I have had has been with Sony -
Michael
 
I finally got around to replacing the rear TV along with the corner cabinet it was housed in (too many blows to the head at night when heading to the bathroom).  Once I removed the cabinet I was left with a rather large opening on the forward wall.  My idea was to mount the new TV on this wall.  After measuring it was apparent that the ideal size would be a 24" LED screen size which equates to about 21" width.  I purchased a piece of hardwood (stainable) plywood at Home Depot along with some trim to finish of the edges.  Had to cut the plywood at an odd angle along the top for it to fit against the curvature of the roof line.  The total width of the panel was 24".  Once I had the panel cut, the trim attached and everything stained, I had to then figure out how to mount to the wall.  The exterior wall board had about a 1 3/4" gap between it and the framing behind it.  I ripped two pieces of 2 x4 to fill these gapes on the left and right sides of these gap to give me a solid base to mount the new panel on.  Once that was in place I was able to rewire the cable outlet and the power outlet through the boxes in the new panel.  I then mounted the TV bracket to the panel and attached all to the wall with screws on both sides.  From there it was just a matter of attaching the TV to the wall bracket and plugging everything in.

One note.  I discovered upon removal that the old TV was actually a 12 volt set, plugged into a cigarette type adapter.  It just so happens that there was a 120 ac receptacle inside of the wall next to it that I was able to use.  I simply turned off and taped down the 12 volt switch that was originally located under the old TV and wire tied it to the rest of the wire cluster in the wall and tucked it away.  Thanks to Winnibego for for haveing that unused AC access in the wall!

Also, got a great deal on a Samsung 24" 1080P LED at Costco.  Regular $199 on sale for $169

Front TV is next!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4004.jpeg
    IMG_4004.jpeg
    22.3 KB · Views: 73
  • IMG_4005.jpeg
    IMG_4005.jpeg
    20.6 KB · Views: 67
  • IMG_3983.jpeg
    IMG_3983.jpeg
    20.1 KB · Views: 61
Nice job and saves wear and tear on your head!  Love these lightweight, thin TV's! 
 
Good looking installation!  A couple of years ago we replaced the old 15" flat panel Sharp in the bedroom with a 22" LED model - it was about 1/3 the weight of the old one.
 
I have been wanting to get rid of the old Sony and it's associated squeaks since we got our 2004 Adventurer. Finally pulled the trigger on an Upstar 32" Class LED HDTV 720P from Tigerdirect for $199 plus shipping. It only measures 29.1" wide. 
    After getting the old beast out, and tidying up all of the wiring with tie wraps, I opened the back of the old TV and removed the speakers, so I could duplicate the wiring for the surround sound hook-up. I made a new base mount out of 2" x 3 " aluminum angle, and positioned it so the new TV would be about 1/8" above the bottom of the metal frame that held the old TV. (see pics)
      I bolted the new bracket to the back of the TV, and then to the base of the frame with two 3/8" bolts.  I opened up the back of the new TV and soldered the surround sound wires and resistor bridges to the new speakers, making sure to match the color code from the old speakers.
      I had to "flare" the edges of the frame about 1/4" to get clearance for the new TV.  After getting the new TV mounted and wired, I replaced the original wood frame for the front.  It fit perfectly! However, the sensor on the TV to recieve the signal from the remote control was buried behind the wood!
      I, know, Measure twice, cut once!
I made two 1/4" spacers to raise the bracket up from the bottom of the frame.
NOW it works!
I made a trim plate out of 3/16" lexan, painted the back black, and mounted it to the back of the wood frame, and the top edge of the TV. See pics. I used two sided tape to secure the sides of the TV to the back side of the wood frame sides.
      I have a couple of short trips scheduled within the next month, so will evaluate whether or not I need to design an upper mount.
 

Attachments

  • July 31 001.JPG
    July 31 001.JPG
    128.6 KB · Views: 93
  • July 31 005.JPG
    July 31 005.JPG
    111.1 KB · Views: 78
  • July 31 006.JPG
    July 31 006.JPG
    119.9 KB · Views: 87
  • July 31 007.JPG
    July 31 007.JPG
    123.3 KB · Views: 75
  • July 31 030.JPG
    July 31 030.JPG
    149.7 KB · Views: 95
  • July 31 032.JPG
    July 31 032.JPG
    141.3 KB · Views: 81
Steve-n-Sue said:
....However, the sensor on the TV to recieve the signal from the remote control was buried behind the wood!
No worries - buy this inexpensive IR repeater and lower the TV back to its original position.  I use this product to operate my Sony amp/DVD player and sat receiver that live in a cabinet on the coach.

Good job - thanks for the pictures!
 
As per your guidance

1999 Winnebago Chieftain 34Y the brochure does not show layout of TV. It's located over dinette next to Fridge don't like it but can live with it (if both sides of dinette used TV directly overhead of one side cant see TV)

The TV installed was a 19 inch G.E. model  19GT317TX1

Replacement is an Emerson 26 LCD model LC260 EM 2A

built a box within the original box to attached the flat screen mount (three way arms)  the original box was sloped so had to correct for that, plus didn't feel there was a secure mounting point.  Built a box to provide a mounting point was able to secure it to the bottom of original box floor where the original TV was mounted.  Given the weight of the GE (heavier) than LCD no issues with security,  while hard to see my plywood box will remove it this winter and pretty it up. 

Had issues with VCR, and Selector Box so replaced VCR with blue ray that is wifi capable but it did not have a coaxial cable output so ran HDMI cable directly to TV.

Still have some issues to resolve the first is the GE had a 1.5mm speaker jack for audio output.  Emerson does not, got the necessary coupling, followed instructions but no sound to RV speakers. I know RV speakers worked double checked switches both on dash and one that goes TV to Radio in fact plugged in iphone worked great.  Suspect TV, followed their instructions but no joy.  Any Emerson experts give me a shout

The TV ant works great have amp, looked at wing mostly likely pick one up

Now the Sat system when bought RV did not have receiver. The sat ant is an older system everything looks  to be in good shape so have no desire to upgrade.  I have a Winegard model RD40DE ant.  I do have sat for the house it's direct TV.  Given that the sat ant has an older LNBF, I was told that I would have to use an older direct receiver model D11-100 which I have, so before I called a tech who is god knows where is my info correct.

I don't use the RV very often aging parent house bound but I am anal in that when I do use it I would like everything working flip a switch light comes on  press a button appliance works so I would like the video/audio to be correct.

Do not plan to put rear TV in.
 
The following is a PDF file I made up to describe the process


Hope the photos and dialog help.  If you get stuck and need a question answered, you can phone me and I will try to help
352 527 7059
The attached is the install on the 2005 Adventurer.  The only difference on the Itasca Horizon was that the new Samsung LED LCD TV is only 1 inch thick and makes a tighter install.  Around the opening between the TV and the wood cabinet, (Not Showing) Is 1/2 inch wide by 1/4 inch thick weatherstrip soft foam to seal the installation and eliminate any vibration


Double click to open



This is the finished job on the 05 Itasca Horizon.  The procedures would be almost the same on any coach with the TV
mounted in the overhead cabinets.  The overall goal was to mount it so that there is no vibration.

If you have a Winnebago product, or possibly some others  " When you remove your existing TV, you will see 2 wires coming out of the back of the case with RCA plugs on the end. (1 ea red and white)  When the TV is out lay it on its face and remove the case (Not difficult) You will see the wires to each speaker. Cut them off and pull them through the case. You will have to solder these wires in side the case of your new TV on each speaker. NOTE If your new TV has audio out plugs on the back, you can merely plug into these. It is these 2 wires that Winnebago uses to pick-up the additional speakers."  This is the procedure that allows your radio/tv switch to work your auxiliary speakers.  At the other end of the wires that were connected to the back of your TV(red and white RCA jacks) is an amplifier.

Regards
Lloyd Waters  To receive entire file and PDF send me your email and I will forward[/color]
 
lwasouth said:
..
If you have a Winnebago product, or possibly some others  " When you remove your existing TV, you will see 2 wires coming out of the back of the case with RCA plugs on the end. (1 ea red and white)  When the TV is out lay it on its face and remove the case (Not difficult) You will see the wires to each speaker. Cut them off and pull them through the case. You will have to solder these wires in side the case of your new TV on each speaker. ..
It's not quite that simple.  You need to solder a couple of resistors to the speaker leads in the TV to provide a low level line out feature if the replacement TV does not have variable audio out.
 
I have my old CRT ready to slide out as soon as I get an able bodied person to lend me their help. I am puzzled that I haven't found a power cord to the TV yet? Is it possible that it is a 12 volt unit?
 
marbilupton said:
I have my old CRT ready to slide out as soon as I get an able bodied person to lend me their help. I am puzzled that I haven't found a power cord to the TV yet? Is it possible that it is a 12 volt unit?

Still must have a power cord!

Scott  :)
 
I have two 110 volt electrical outlets in the cabinets next to the TV. None of the cords trace back to the TV.
 
marbilupton said:
I have my old CRT ready to slide out as soon as I get an able bodied person to lend me their help. I am puzzled that I haven't found a power cord to the TV yet? Is it possible that it is a 12 volt unit?
You don't say what year and model you have, but it is extremely unlikely your TV is 12V powered. 
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
131,990
Posts
1,388,717
Members
137,736
Latest member
Savysoaker
Back
Top Bottom