Tankless Water Heater

[Deano2002]

We are getting closer to retirement and full timing, thinking summer of 2024. One thing on my list to do is replace the 6 gallon water heater with a tankless unit and have just really started to look at the different models out there again, I did this a few years ago but I'm sure all thats lost by now (in my head). I was thinking the Furion or Fogatti so, I'd like to hear from someone who has installed theirs and how its working for you oh, which brand too

 

[garyb1st]

I've also considered a tankless unit and am interested in the pros and cons of using one in an RV.

 

[Karen Morris]

I have a Furrion tankless water heater which came installed on my 2022 Reflection. I have been living full time in this unit since August 2022 and not one whisper of a problem with the heater. It does take a bit longer to get hot water (especially in my kitchen) but that's about it. Hopefully this is helpful

 

[John From Detroit]

Tankless units are interesting in that they draw no power/propane when water does not flow.
But the problem is what happens when it freezes..... You see a Tank type NEVER freezes because contrary to the myth hot water does not freeze. it's like 90 degrees ABOVE freezing. but the tankless do not contain HOT water unless it's flowing.
That said.. Might not be a problem for you as there are ways to "Fix" it.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I've not tried one myself, but I observe that a number of people who were enthusiastic about getting one later reported their disappointment that is wasn't as good as advertised, e.g. not always an endless supply of really hot water. I'm not trying to change your mind; just advising against getting over-enthused and forget that there are drawbacks too.

The most common report I have seen is a complaint that the output water temperature depends on the inlet temperature. The temperature increase thru the heater is a fixed amount, so If the source is colder the output will be less hot. May or may not be a concern for you. Another is freeze-ups in cold weather, but some tankless models will activate heating if ambienet temps get to freezing.

LP gas vs electric heating is a major choice. Rapid heating with electric requires a high-amp heater, so LP gas seems like the better choice for most RV owners. A 30A external source isn't enough for practical use.

 

[Karen Morris]

Tankless units are interesting in that they draw no power/propane when water does not flow.
But the problem is what happens when it freezes..... You see a Tank type NEVER freezes because contrary to the myth hot water does not freeze. it's like 90 degrees ABOVE freezing. but the tankless do not contain HOT water unless it's flowing.
That said.. Might not be a problem for you as there are ways to "Fix" it.

Living full time in my unit. Temps down to -10 Celcius a few times over the last couple of months and no freezing problems with the Furrion unit. I do have a heated,enclosed underbelly which probably helps?

 

[John From Detroit]

Living full time in my unit. Temps down to -10 Celcius a few times over the last couple of months and no freezing problems with the Furrion unit. I do have a heated,enclosed underbelly which probably helps?

As I said. that's my concern.. IF the unit is mounted in such a way as to address that concern.. Then .. well I did say there were a couple ways to prevent freezing.

 

[Let’s Roll]

I have a Girard tankless that was installed when we bought our 2021 Jayco Alante. It works like a champ.
It did take some getting used to how it operates as compared to a tank heater.

The tankless requires a certain amount of water psi to produce hot consistent water. Under psi results in the flame turning off (as a safety precaution) or sporadic flame and you get the cold blast shower, and trust me it’s really frustrating. It had me cussing up a storm like the retired sailor I am.

Over psi is too much water passing over the flame and doesn’t give the water enough time to heat up.

I decided to use the installed water tank on the RV and use the water pump which magically produced the correct amount of psi…35 psi. Once I figured it out it works like a champ everytime.

Prior to using the installed water pump, we used the city water hookup. I would check the psi at the connection and it would read 40psi or so. Well, 40psi at the connection doesn’t mean 40 psi at the flame of the tankless heater and that was the problem. Not enough psi at the tankless flame.
When we turn the shower on, it takes about 15-20 seconds and we have hot water. It uses LP so remember to turn that on AND the on/off switch on the heater or you’ll have another sailor potty mouth moment…again.

 

[OldWEB]

Also if you are considering boondocking, then there are recirculating pumps to save on shower water wastage, waiting for it to warm up.

 

[Deano2002]

no boondocking, Florida most likely will be our future home base

 

[Deano2002]

I have a Girard tankless that was installed when we bought our 2021 Jayco Alante. It works like a champ.
It did take some getting used to how it operates as compared to a tank heater.

The tankless requires a certain amount of water psi to produce hot consistent water. Under psi results in the flame turning off (as a safety precaution) or sporadic flame and you get the cold blast shower, and trust me it’s really frustrating. It had me cussing up a storm like the retired sailor I am.

Over psi is too much water passing over the flame and doesn’t give the water enough time to heat up.

I decided to use the installed water tank on the RV and use the water pump which magically produced the correct amount of psi…35 psi. Once I figured it out it works like a champ everytime.

Prior to using the installed water pump, we used the city water hookup. I would check the psi at the connection and it would read 40psi or so. Well, 40psi at the connection doesn’t mean 40 psi at the flame of the tankless heater and that was the problem. Not enough psi at the tankless flame.
When we turn the shower on, it takes about 15-20 seconds and we have hot water. It uses LP so remember to turn that on AND the on/off switch on the heater or you’ll have another sailor potty mouth moment…again.

i was thinking about using our water tank also but more for the water warming up some while it sits under the rear bed, pressure to I see,

 

[LMHS]

When it comes to tankless water heaters, pressure is the most important thing. Too little pressure and the heater will not work. I put an old cheap EccoTemp L5 tankless in my daughter's truck camper. It's the "hang on the wall" type. What makes it work so well is the Shurflo 2088 (45PSI 3.5GPM) water pump. The water is only pumped from the holding tank. Make sure your pump matches the water pressure the heater is rated for. I've heard higher altitudes mess with the tankless heaters. I wouldn't know. The highest this one has been run is 6500ft. It wasn't a problem.

 

[DonTom]

We are getting closer to retirement and full timing, thinking summer of 2024. One thing on my list to do is replace the 6 gallon water heater with a tankless unit and have just really started to look at the different models out there again, I did this a few years ago but I'm sure all thats lost by now (in my head). I was thinking the Furion or Fogatti so, I'd like to hear from someone who has installed theirs and how its working for you oh, which brand too

They work great in houses where it never gets too cold (such as the San Franciso area, where i had mine) , but my own experience is that tankless should NOT be in RVs.

Read my thread here.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[DeckArtist]

I looked into them but bought an Ariston 12 gallon tank unit for my RV. I will be full timing it. Cost was $319 on Amazon.

 

[Deano2002]

I looked into them but bought an Ariston 12 gallon tank unit for my RV. I will be full timing it. Cost was $319 on Amazon.

you had room for a 12 gallon water heater and electic too?

 

[DeckArtist]

you had room for a 12 gallon water heater and electic too?

I made room. The original location for the propane version is of course not big enough. I demo'ed the bathroom shower/tub mess and am installing a 36" shower base. The original cabinet above the slide out motor came out as well and I am building a shelf for the 12 gallon unit today. Here's the progress so far. I have electrical run from the old microwave [20 amp] to the new location for the heater. The pan will drain outside the wall of the RV.

 

[Deano2002]

I made room. The original location for the propane version is of course not big enough. I demo'ed the bathroom shower/tub mess and am installing a 36" shower base. The original cabinet above the slide out motor came out as well and I am building a shelf for the 12 gallon unit today. Here's the progress so far. I have electrical run from the old microwave [20 amp] to the new location for the heater. The pan will drain outside the wall of the RV.

nice, is your shower bas going to be 36" square?

 

[Deano2002]

They work great in houses where it never gets too cold (such as the San Franciso area, where i had mine) , but my own experience is that tankless should NOT be in RVs.

Read my thread here.

-Don- Reno, NV

kind of strange you say no to these heaters in RV's but, some say they haven't had a single issue. I guess I have to decide

 

[DonTom]

kind of strange you say no to these heaters in RV's

More than just me.

But ask those who own both which they like best. I have both, I like the old water heater in my Y2K RV a lot better than the tankless in my 2022 RV.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[CharlesinGA]

I'm with DonTom on this one.

While I have never used an RV tankless WH, Everytime this comes up on an RV forum, its about 80% thumbs down on them (from actual users). My travel buddy had a 2015 Winnebago Micro Minnie, first year they built them and it had a Girard unit in it. He tried it once or twice and gave up. (beginning in 2016 WBO installed standard 6 gal tank types due to the complaints they had.) They sold the trailer and bought a slightly larger trailer with a standard gas/electric tank type.

I'm trying to figure out how I could use one. I am rarely on hook ups, sometimes water and power, many times not. The heater has to have water flow to work, and that would be a waste of water I could not afford to waste, and it would not be efficient for the heater to start/stop/start. In a house, I can see it, but not in an RV.

Charles