The Truths About Installing Your Own 30 Amp

[X-Roughneck]

Going to install a 30 Amp 120v Drop / 8 gage feed is 37 ft on the back wall of the casa to feed the RV Launch Pad and I was searching the Internet online forums for truths about RV wiring and this is what I came up with. 

Hopefully this year is correct I am looking for some feedback.

2017 Class C, Class C @ 30 amp / 120V should be wired as shown or described in link.

http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/30amp_Service.htm

I am trying Not to blow up my Gear when I energize the Rig.

In early 1980s one of my co-worker?s (Tommy Large) Father was electrocuted on a Drilling Rig and killed here in the Permian Basin. 

The Roughnecks knew to jump onto the skid both feet at same time or you would get bit by the grounding SNAFU. 

The drilling Rig are / were self Contained Circus/ Death  traps complete with dumb operators to enhance your accident chances. 

I did not work on the Rig when accident occurred.  For the Electrical smart people does this sound correct? 1 ft on un ground gen on a skid in mud, 1 ft on earth killed him dead by Electrocution.

 

[John From Detroit]

It appears you have done your research and gotten good advice
I will add ONE item.. After you have it wired. and this goes quadruple if you have it installed by a professional.. Get out ye old volt meter and make sure you have 120 volts (real close to it, 115-125) between the two flat blades.. Then also 120 volts from the left (looking into the plug) flat identified as BLACK on the diagrams to the roundish hole. 

OR use a 15-30 puck and a 3-light outlet tester for that step Either one works.
I recommend the puck+tester because you can quick test parks as you travel .

 

[X-Roughneck]

It appears you have done your research and gotten good advice
I will add ONE item.. After you have it wired. and this goes quadruple if you have it installed by a professional.. Get out ye old volt meter and make sure you have 120 volts (real close to it, 115-125) between the two flat blades.. Then also 120 volts from the left (looking into the plug) flat identified as BLACK on the diagrams to the roundish hole. 

OR use a 15-30 puck and a 3-light outlet tester for that step Either one works.
I recommend the puck+tester because you can quick test parks as you travel .

Yes I planned on plugging in my 30 Surge Protection to Test and have it between the plug and RV. Hoping to see "0" in the LCD which on mine mean Free of Errors it also shows Voltage and Amp Draw.

 

[Isaac-1]

I agree, don't trust the "professionals" I know of at least two incidence in my town over the years where "professional" electricians have mis-wired a 30 amp TT 120V outlet as 240V frying all the electronics in the RV the moment it was plugged in.  One of which happened to a family member about 20 years ago.

 

[Rob&Deryl]

Most 120v outlets will have a brass screw which is the hot, or black wire, a silver screw, the neutral or white wire, and a green screw to connect the safety ground to.

It is best to check any outlet you buy as it is not unknown for the manufacturer to get the colors wrong on occasion.

 

[X-Roughneck]

For my 8 Gage wiring I could not find at the big box stores.  Maybe because I am in a Smaller Market they just don't have the San Antonio Stock Level of Product.  In San Antonio there was 15+ HD so one of them had it.....Just had to Fight Traffic to get it. 

I Purchased the 30 Amp Breaker and 3/4" Flexible Conduit.  The man said it was OK for code to run it overhead without anything more than the Wiring heat shrink, but I don't want a eXtension Cord final Look.

Bought a few 90s and Straight so coming off the Knock out Plate it will look clean.  I do Power Wash this Country Air Dry Porch too.

I got my Friend, Angel Coming by to give me a hand with it.

 

[Ex-Calif]

Make sure you get the correct 30amp (single) breaker for the panel. Lots of choices at the big box place and while I initially got a single it was not the correct one for my panel.  I took a 20 amp single in to match it up.

 

[X-Roughneck]

Make sure you get the correct 30amp (single) breaker for the panel. Lots of choices at the big box place and while I initially got a single it was not the correct one for my panel.  I took a 20 amp single in to match it up.

Ohhhh No.  I got this Double Flip (Paired) Switch. 

..Just a Second

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Q-Line-30-Amp-2-in-Double-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-THQL2130/100356511

I Bought the RV Box at HD....The "HD" Electric Kid "Told Me" (Oh OHhhhh) That is what I needed.  I kept telling him this was 120V and Not 220V.

What do I really Need?  I got a few days before we step on this Carnival Ride.

My Box, the one they had in stock, Looks like it will accept any 30 Amp Thick Plug coming off Motor Home X, y, z.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Midwest-Electric-Products-30-Amp-Temporary-RV-Power-Outlet-U013P/202307113

JD

 

[John From Detroit]

Ohhhh No.  I got this Double Flip (Paired) Switch. 

.

That is one of the most common mistakes folks make with 30 amp.  Since the outlet LOOKS like a 240 volt outlet they use the double breaker and feed it 240 volts and FRY all the electroincs in the trialer.. Hundreds of stories on the assorted forums I visit over the years.

YOU got lucky.. We caught you before you plugged in.

The black wire goes to the breaker
The White goes to the WHITE WIRE BUS BAR
There is no red
Green or bare to the Ground bar.

 

[Ex-Calif]

Ohhhh No.  I got this Double Flip (Paired) Switch. 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Q-Line-30-Amp-2-in-Double-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-THQL2130/100356511

I Bought the RV Box at HD....The "HD" Electric Kid "Told Me" (Oh OHhhhh) That is what I needed.  I kept telling him this was 120V and Not 220V.

What do I really Need?  I got a few days before we step on this Carnival Ride.

Scroll down on your breaker to "details" and see "240V" specified.

Try this one - https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Q-Line-30-Amp-1-in-Single-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-THQL1130/100356509

Scroll down and read 120V specified - then make sure the "plug in" matches your panel.

(edit) - PS - "Then also 120 volts from the left (looking into the plug) flat identified as BLACK on the diagrams to the roundish hole. " D0n't get confused on this but - John explained how to wire it (3 wires) - From the "back" when you connect the black to your new outlet it goes to the right...

As John said - "Good thing you asked!"

 

[Isaac-1]

One more here, what kind of wire did they sell you?  I can't tell from that photo

 

[Ex-Calif]

One more here, what kind of wire did they sell you?  I can't tell from that photo

Good question.

For reference I bought 10 gauge because it came in pre-packaged lengths and IMO is sufficient for the amps on a short run.  My run was less than 10 feet. This is a Grainger link but Home Depot basically had the same stuff in 25ft, 50ft and 100ft.

https://www.grainger.com/product/2VGA8?gclid=CjwKCAjwn9v7BRBqEiwAbq1EywuYCQKBxoowRSa3vMNxaXnUgh3zAHBjQhpyfjDO9jo55sKdGu_3RxoCkgMQAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAjwn9v7BRBqEiwAbq1EywuYCQKBxoowRSa3vMNxaXnUgh3zAHBjQhpyfjDO9jo55sKdGu_3RxoCkgMQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264922886802!!!g!439460816581!&gucid=N:NSaid:GGL:CSM-2293:FAGP9P:20500731

 

[X-Roughneck]

Good question.

For reference I bought 10 gauge because it came in pre-packaged lengths and IMO is sufficient for the amps on a short run.  My run was less than 10 feet. This is a Grainger link but Home Depot basically had the same stuff in 25ft, 50ft and 100ft.

https://www.grainger.com/product/2VGA8?gclid=CjwKCAjwn9v7BRBqEiwAbq1EywuYCQKBxoowRSa3vMNxaXnUgh3zAHBjQhpyfjDO9jo55sKdGu_3RxoCkgMQAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAjwn9v7BRBqEiwAbq1EywuYCQKBxoowRSa3vMNxaXnUgh3zAHBjQhpyfjDO9jo55sKdGu_3RxoCkgMQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264922886802!!!g!439460816581!&gucid=N:NSaid:GGL:CSM-2293:FAGP9P:20500731

8 Gage, Triple Single Wires in a Heat Shrink.  The Ground is not that 8 Gage though. The "Carry Wires" are thicker 8 gage.  The whole bundle is Heavy total about thickness of ring finger.  It will slide into that 3/4" ID flex conduit alot better.  The Only Reason my Dumb Self went with 8 gage was the OP link I stumbled across Googlin my next move in this DIY Adventure.

8 guage with a Triple Wire Bundle I had to Purchase at a Electric Place, here in my One Horse Town.

 

[X-Roughneck]

Good question.

For reference I bought 10 gauge because it came in pre-packaged lengths and IMO is sufficient for the amps on a short run.  My run was less than 10 feet. This is a Grainger link but Home Depot basically had the same stuff in 25ft, 50ft and 100ft.

https://www.grainger.com/product/2VGA8?gclid=CjwKCAjwn9v7BRBqEiwAbq1EywuYCQKBxoowRSa3vMNxaXnUgh3zAHBjQhpyfjDO9jo55sKdGu_3RxoCkgMQAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAjwn9v7BRBqEiwAbq1EywuYCQKBxoowRSa3vMNxaXnUgh3zAHBjQhpyfjDO9jo55sKdGu_3RxoCkgMQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264922886802!!!g!439460816581!&gucid=N:NSaid:GGL:CSM-2293:FAGP9P:20500731

Yea for a 10 ft I would run 10 gage to RV Drop Box. 

It is not like you got your AC running off that 30 amp 24/7.  I would accept that risk for sure with 10 gage. 

I really envision just easier for me to connect the Juice to cool off the Refridge basically 48 hours before we Launch the RV. 

Right now I use that 30 amp RV to House Adapter, this back wall 30 Amp DIY coming off a knock out plate on my Panel will eliminate cords at our feet at the back door as that is where the OEM Stick and Brick 110 to the back yard location on BLue Prints.

Longer the run under load the hotter that wire gets....37 ft and I can use it as Housing when my Kid comes down, the Grand Kids can go camping in the Back Yard now. 

I am in the 37ft range by the time we tuck it in the out of the way places, so I like the Thicker 8 gage already.  I gave a Tim Allen, 1990 Tool Time, Whoot Whoot as I eXited the Store.  ;D

 

[rfinley]

For my 8 Gage wiring I could not find at the big box stores.  Maybe because I am in a Smaller Market they just don't have the San Antonio Stock Level of Product.  In San Antonio there was 15+ HD so one of them had it.....Just had to Fight Traffic to get it. 

I Purchased the 30 Amp Breaker and 3/4" Flexible Conduit.  The man said it was OK for code to run it overhead without anything more than the Wiring heat shrink, but I don't want a eXtension Cord final Look.

Bought a few 90s and Straight so coming off the Knock out Plate it will look clean.  I do Power Wash this Country Air Dry Porch too.

I got my Friend, Angel Coming by to give me a hand with it.

Just a heads up, NEC limits length of flexible conduit to 6'.... 

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 3 Wiring Methods
Article 356 Liquidtight Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit: Type LFNC

356.10 Uses Permitted. LFNC shall be permitted to be used in exposed or concealed locations for the following purposes:

(5) Type LFNC-B shall be permitted to be installed in lengths longer than 1.8 m (6 ft) where secured in accordance with 356.30.

356.30 Securing and Supporting. Type LFNC-B shall be securely fastened and supported in accordance with one of the following:

(1) Where installed in lengths exceeding 1.8 m (6 ft), the conduit shall be securely fastened at intervals not exceeding 900 mm (3 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) on each side of every outlet box, junction box, cabinet, or fitting.

 

[X-Roughneck]

That is one of the most common mistakes folks make with 30 amp.  Since the outlet LOOKS like a 240 volt outlet they use the double breaker and feed it 240 volts and FRY all the electroincs in the trialer.. Hundreds of stories on the assorted forums I visit over the years.

YOU got lucky.. We caught you before you plugged in.

The black wire goes to the breaker
The White goes to the WHITE WIRE BUS BAR
There is no red
Green or bare to the Ground bar.

Virtual High 5s.  John, I will say, on this one I was waiting for a Reality Check coming off the Boards. 

I saw the look of hesitation in his eye at the HD.

Also Angel, the guy that build my Porch and helped my install my 4" Bad Ass Gate Hinges, Yes that is the Actual Name, well I knew he DKS by asking if it was 220V/  ;D

So I knew he was just as dangerous as I was.

The Plug (Surge Protector with Error Code and Voltage) I place on the RV Pedestal will be the Final Reality check, after I go eXchange the Breaker. 

Can I get the Motor City John Preferred or Ex-Calif HD Big Box Preferred top of the Line 30 Amp / Preferred Link?

I am Clueless!!!!! As I demonstrated.

 

[X-Roughneck]

Scroll down on your breaker to "details" and see "240V" specified.

Try this one - https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Q-Line-30-Amp-1-in-Single-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-THQL1130/100356509

Scroll down and read 120V specified - then make sure the "plug in" matches your panel.

(edit) - PS - "Then also 120 volts from the left (looking into the plug) flat identified as BLACK on the diagrams to the roundish hole. " D0n't get confused on this but - John explained how to wire it (3 wires) - From the "back" when you connect the black to your new outlet it goes to the right...

As John said - "Good thing you asked!"

Got It.  )

Thanks For Looking Out!

JD

 

[X-Roughneck]

Scroll down on your breaker to "details" and see "240V" specified.
Try this one - https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Q-Line-30-Amp-1-in-Single-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-THQL1130/100356509
Scroll down and read 120V specified - then make sure the "plug in" matches your panel.

I thought that was 220 but I was talking to the "Electric Guy"  I think his Orange Cape said "Guy"

) ) )
Ex-Calif  )

(edit) - PS - "Then also 120 volts from the left (looking into the plug)
flat identified as BLACK on the diagrams to the roundish hole.
" D0n't get confused on this but - John explained how to wire it
(3 wires) - From the "back" when you connect the black to your new outlet it goes to the right...
As John said - "Good thing you asked!"

That is one of the most common mistakes folks make with 30 amp. 
Since the outlet LOOKS like a 240 volt outlet they use the double breaker and feed it 240 volts and FRY all the electronics in the trailer.
Hundreds of stories on the assorted forums I visit over the years.
YOU got lucky.. We caught you before you plugged in.

The black wire goes to the breaker
The White goes to the WHITE WIRE BUS BAR
There is no red
Green or bare to the Ground bar.

) ) )
Motor City John  )

) ) ) Just Like being at the Concerts...AC/DC Original Line Up, Bon Fronting the Band, comes to mind. 

Dudes You Rock! 

Clapping, Cheering thanks Padnahs! 

My Heros!


Onto the Next Adventure!

YOLO, Don't Spend it all working for the Man.

JD

 

[X-Roughneck]

Here is one Last opportunity with this thread to get and give some Get Rich Quick Training .

I know from my Time in the Army Goofing around with 10 thru 60 Kw Generator Sets that Idiots can connect the wires wrong and take out the Entire Ballast lighting sets to all 4 ft Lighting in the eXpando Vans, 3 phase all that stuff I have forgotten, but tactical applications with Grounding are of Real Safety Concerns.

Learned in the oilfields you can get killed by a Generator Set and improper grounding!

Sharing... I was at JSA Korea as my First Duty and their Tactical Bunker near the DMZ had a Antenna Farm. 

When I arrived at Duty station to take my PT Test Fresh off a Broken Wrist a guy was on Convalescent leave from raising a Antenna OE-254 into the Power Line Transformer. 

Blew his Boot Off his foot as where at the electricity eXited his body! Yea!  What is coming off that Transformer on that Power Wire??? 

He was kind of Gimpy when I met the guy.  He Left a few months later and was still feeling the effects of the Jolt!

My Final Question is?  If I would have thrown the Switch and Powered at 240V Input, would it have taken out all the DC Controller Boards to the ReFridge, Thermo, AC?

What would have been the likely Damage,.. Ala Carte List?

Full SNAFU Menu?

Gents, "Real Men Read the Directions", or Post a Question on RV Forum.  )

;D

JD

 

[Isaac-1]

Some people get luckier than others, a common laundry list is the converter / inverter, TV, microwave, air conditioner, maybe refrigerator maybe more