Tire Change Procedure

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

meierjn

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2021
Posts
120
Location
Central Alberta
I have a 25" WestWind 5th wheel that we purchased from my fathers estate. It has tandem axels. I'm almost embarrassed to ask this but how does one change a tire if you end up with a flat one? I've never had to do one on it but would certainly like to know how in the event that I have to while out on the road. Is it as easy as putting the parking brake on in the truck, chocking the trailer tires, putting a jack under the axel with the flat tire, and changing it? I noticed that dad had a 5 ton bottle jack in the toolbox of the truck and assume that the jack was intended for the trailer in the event of a flat. Any tips are appreciated for this noob! Thanks in advance!
 
I usually position the jack under the axle if I can.. I use a floor jack. If the axle has leaf springs you try to position the jack under the shackel where the springs connect to the axle.

I've never changed a tire on a dual axle.. Have changed a spring however.
 
I usually position the jack under the axle if I can.. I use a floor jack. If the axle has leaf springs you try to position the jack under the shackel where the springs connect to the axle.

I've never changed a tire on a dual axle.. Have changed a spring however.

Good point!
 
I have a set of leveler blocks. Mine are Lynx Levelers.
To change a tire, first loosen the lug nuts a little while the tire is on the ground. Next, build a ramp of levelers for the good tire. Pull the trailer up the ramp and the flat one will be suspended. Change the tire. No jack needed.
 
Call good sam, i have a tri axle 20,000lb 5er
I also have a knee replacement and 8 screws 4 plates in my back. There is no way im getting down on the pavement with traffic
 
Last edited:
If you decide to use the jack,, first check the height of the jack to determine in advance if the jack will fit under the axel when the tire is flat.. Setting along side the road is no time to discover the jack is too tall..>>>Dan
 
Setting along side the road is no time to discover the jack is too tall.
Or too short to lift the tire off the ground. Some bottle jacks have a rather short lift range.

There are also mechanical jacks that work ok on smaller trailers. They are basically a lever that you place under the axle and then pull the trailer forward several inches, causing the lever to rotate and lift the axle.
 
Last edited:
I have a set of leveler blocks. Mine are Lynx Levelers.
To change a tire, first loosen the lug nuts a little while the tire is on the ground. Next, build a ramp of levelers for the good tire. Pull the trailer up the ramp and the flat one will be suspended. Change the tire. No jack needed.
Good call!
 
My LCI 6 point level system actually has a tire change feature whereby in manual mode you can lift on side of the coach off the ground to change a tire or two
 
Many of us cannot either handle a floor jack or have the room to srore one. Instead go buy a 10 ton bottle jack. Less than 20 dollars at harbor freight. While your at it, buy a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench a 6 inch 1/2 inch drive extension and the correct socket. Most people recommend rechecking the lug nut torque at least weekly so this stuff will come in handy quite often.
 
I have only had one blow-out. After pulling off the road, saying several unkind words, called AAA and opened a beer after cranking the gen and A/C.. less than an hour later a nice guy showed up, changed my tire and gave directions to a great cafe.

$20.00 tip for the "no sweat repair"
 
I have only had one blow-out. After pulling off the road, saying several unkind words, called AAA and opened a beer after cranking the gen and A/C.. less than an hour later a nice guy showed up, changed my tire and gave directions to a great cafe.

$20.00 tip for the "no sweat repair"
I like this idea! I made sure that our AMA coverage (up here in Canada eh) covered our trailer as well. It can be a life saver if you're in a sticky situation.
 
Many of us cannot either handle a floor jack or have the room to srore one. Instead go buy a 10 ton bottle jack. Less than 20 dollars at harbor freight. While your at it, buy a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench a 6 inch 1/2 inch drive extension and the correct socket. Most people recommend rechecking the lug nut torque at least weekly so this stuff will come in handy quite often.

I packed my socket set and a 1/2" breaker bar. The sockets have a 3/4" socket and a 6" extension in the case. I can use these to get the lug nuts off. What is the recommended torque on the lug nuts? I should give them a check!
 
I packed my socket set and a 1/2" breaker bar. The sockets have a 3/4" socket and a 6" extension in the case. I can use these to get the lug nuts off. What is the recommended torque on the lug nuts? I should give them a check!
Usually somewhere between 50 and 75 pounds depending on stud size. I bought what I needed exclusively for the trailer. My fiver had those god awful chrome caps over the lug nuts, and the chearence between the nuts and center cap was close so I had to search hard to find a socket that would fit. So it was part of my stock of tools in the trailer full time. Same for the jack. If you buy a bottle jack be sure you can fit it under the axle with a flat tire. BTW best place to fit the jack is right under thr axle spring perch.
 
BTW best place to fit the jack is right under thr axle spring perch.

In addition to that when looking to purchase a bottle jack make sure it has a threaded piece at the end of the ram which will allow you to take up some of the space between the jack and the spring before you start jacking. I think they may all have that set up but just to make sure before buying.
 
Back
Top Bottom