Tires for travel trailer ?????

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Luvcampen

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Joined
Feb 21, 2010
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Wisconsin
OK, I've been seeing alot of communication on problems people are having with their travel trailer tires and the overseas brands and I wonder how much of this is actual and how much could have been due to the neglect of the owner by not maintaining them properly etc.?

In all I DO NOT want to get in a debate over the above subject, rather I'd like to think about it a different way and would like to know which tires are then recommended by others as being the better tires to use on a travel trailer assuming that all regular tire maintenance is performed as needed (Radial vs Nylon Ply, Brand etc.)?

Secondly, I would think that this is true, but would it be recommended to go with a higher load range tire then is actually required to have a heavier side wall?

Thirdly, What kind of regular tire maintenance should be performed other than routine tire pressure and visual inspection for buldges, cracking etc. (Should they be covered for UV rays?, Should they be conditioned with any chemicals? Rotated? etc.)

Thanks in advance for the input!!:B
 
Well, to answer your question any of the American built tires seem to be OK.  Preference is Michelin XPS Rib and second choice is the BF Goodrich commercial TA.  The big issues is and always has been ST vs LT tires.  ST tires have a speed rating of around 62-65MPH, and since most people tow at the speed limit or above that can place the ST tires under excess stress causing some problems.  Heavier towers are using LT tires with no issues, and IMHO are well served by them.  I know I am.  I am not sure why anybody would stick old technology under their trailer when newer better technology is available with radials.  Increasing load ratings is only part of the picture.  You also need wheels that are capable of the extra load rating.  Otherwise all you are doing is moving the weak ling to another component.  As for maintenance, cover them when the trailer is sitting, I clean them every time I wash the trailer, treat them with tire conditioner (UV protection) several times a year.  Balance them and go.  I don't see any reason to rotate trailer tires.  None are on a steering axle.
 
Why not just go and do some research. Your post has trouble written all over it. You already have someone recommending a super stiff retreadable tire for usage on a travel trailer. It wont end there. The information you seek can be found at the reference below or many other like web sites.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/tiretech.jsp

FastEagle
 
My last 2 trailers came with Duro (chinese) tires. Neither lasted 2 years. Funny thing is on the last one 2 of the tires looked OK, the others were badly cracked. The date codes were a few weeks apart though.
After reading a lot about trailer tires & talking to people  I found a lot of good comments about http://www.maxxis.com/Industrial/Trailer.aspx Maxxis tires. Discount Tire sells them , but they have to order them. Of course they will try to sell you something they have in stock. I'm not a tire engineer, but I could tell they were built much better just by looking. Also they were about 5-6 lbs heavier per tire, more stuff in them.
 
Tire type & brand: Radial for sure. I prefer LT over ST for trailers and don't buy the theory that ST's prevent sway by having stiffer sidewalls. And there is no guarantee that an ST is any  stiffer in the sidewall than anyway. It is allowed to be stiffer since it doesn't have to steer, but that doesn't mean the manufacturer actually designed it that way. More likely it is just a cheapened version of their regular tire carcass design, with a lower speed & mileage rating and a simplistic tread design. Lt tires are fairly stiff (compared to P passenger tires) because trucks carry heavy loads too, yet they are rated for highway speeds and highway temperatures. As long as the LT has a suitable load capacity (see below), I think it is actually superior to an ST in most trailer applications.

As for brand,  go with any of the majors. Doesn't have to be Michelin or Goodyear.  Some others are Bridgestone, Goodrich (a Michelin  brand), Firestone, General and Continental. Some specialty brands like Maxxis should be fine too.  Use a brand that you can get replaced anywhere in the US. A warranty that is only good 1000 miles  away is of no help.

Load range: I like to see the load capacity in pounds (not the range letter) exceed the actual tire load by at least 10%. Loading a tire (or anything else) to its max capacity is not conducive to a long life span and who wants the aggravation of a tire failure on the road? In my opinion, covering and the use of tire protectant chemicals (e.g. 303) won't change their useful life in any noticeable way.

Maintenance: Regular pressure and visual checks. Wash the tire occasionally to remove road grime/chemicals, etc. No need to rotate a trailer tire and probably not a motorhome tire either, unless there are signs of uneven wear.

These are just my opinions, based on my own experiences and observations. I'm not a tire engineer or materials expert.
 
i did not catch any details on your rig, 15" or 16' wheels, what tires do you have now???, i can tell you after lots of research on my own after my own mid trip disaster leading to the failure of 3 tires i came to this conclusion.
there are very few "quality" ST rated tires out there, i had carlisle brand on our rig when it was bought new, they lasted less than 1,000 miles, we had 1 explode and 2 others with major tread seperation, all this while properly inflated and towing at 65 MPH, the tire company is so aware that they are selling crap that they bought me 5 brand new tires of my choice, no questions asked!!

If you have 15" wheels you are stuck with ST rated tires, go with Maxxis 8008, load range "E", we now have 3 long distance trips on ours towing between 65 and 70 MPH with no trouble, including ane trip to florida in August last summer, very high temps!!  http://www.maxxis.com/Industrial/Trailer.aspx

If you do have 16" wheels go with LT tires, if you go to any RV dealer that sells mid to high end fifth wheel rigs you will see that they all come new with LT tires.

of course this is jusy my opinion, based on personal experience>>

 
After doing a little research on your TT I discovered it has a GVWR of 7300# which would place it on a couple of axles rated at 3300# or more.

It is the opinion of the ruling body (DOT) and the Trailer manufacturers & Tire manufacturers that the great majority of tire failures on RV trailers are caused by the users. There are many factors leading to their conclusions. The leading one is actual investigation of failed tires which almost always indicates misuse either by poor maintenance practices or operations outside of the  individual tire?s operating parameters.

There are other factors at play here. The Trailer manufacturer can be partly responsible for early tire failure by not providing tires with enough reserve load capacity when the owners decide to load their trailer to the maximum load capacity. An individual owner will not be successful at holding the trailer manufacturer responsible for the lack of tire load carrying capacity because technically they have met the axle requirements by providing tires that equal the load limit of the axle. So when it comes time for replacement tires you should equal or exceed the recommended tires on your vehicle and make sure you are going to get tires that have a total load carrying capacity of at least 12-15% above your trailer?s GAWR (that?s right, GAWR).

If you are not going to abide by the 65 MPH speed restriction placed on the ST tire than by all means switch to a suitable LT replacement with a higher speed range. The ST tire will overheat badly when driven at 70-75 MPH and early tread separations and complete failures will occur.  Many new owners do not know of the ST speed restriction or just plain do not abide by it and find themselves on the side of a busy highway changing tires and are mad at the failed tire.

You have a new trailer. With it came an owners manual. The manufacturer is mandated by the DOT to place all pertinent wheel/tire information in that manual, including proper maintenance and protection. It must be accurate and fit your particular trailer?s needs. Other tire and axle information along with cargo information are provided via certification labels and placards affixed to your trailer. 

The Trailer manufacturer is solely responsible for selecting the wheel/tire configuration that came on your trailer. Before first sale you can request that the wheels/tires be changed to another brand which does not effect the certification labels or placard. You can also request an upgrade to higher load range or size tires/wheels. This requires the trailer manufacturer or his representative (dealer) to change all documentation affected by the change before  first sale.

When a through search of various RV trailer forums are made with wheel/tire criteria selected you will find that both the ST & LT tires provided as Original Equipment on our RV trailers are failing. In my opinion the majority of the failures can be a direct result of heavy trailer loading, poor maintenance habits, speeding and tires that are overloaded because the RV trailer manufacturer and their engineering departments failed to recognize the need for tires to have  excess load carrying capabilities. The automobile industry has always provided tires with a generous reserve. Why the RV trailer industry has failed in this area is an unanswered question. Putting  tires with a total load carrying capability of 6084# on an RV axle rated at 6000# is a gross injustice to the end user. At the very minimum that axle should have tires rated at  3360# each.

FastEagle
 
Luvcampen said:
Which tires are then recommended by others as being the better tires to use on a travel trailer assuming that all regular tire maintenance is performed as needed (Radial vs Nylon Ply, Brand etc.)?
Click to expand...

Radials.  I don't think there's a consistent difference between brands, but some people do.  Most people run ST tires with a handful using LT tires instead.  There's a similar argument among motorcycle owners, they use car tires for the rear for much the same reasons some people use LT tires on trailers.

I have had good luck with ST tires.  People who drive in 100 degree plus weather in Mexico, Arizona, and similar places generally do not.

Secondly, I would think that this is true, but would it be recommended to go with a higher load range tire then is actually required to have a heavier side wall?
Click to expand...

Solve your sway problems at the hitch, not at the tire.

Choose a tire compatible with the rim that has a capacity around 10% higher than what you need.  Anything higher than that just runs up the unsprung weight and leads to a rough ride that shakes the trailer apart.

Thirdly, What kind of regular tire maintenance should be performed other than routine tire pressure and visual inspection for buldges, cracking etc. (Should they be covered for UV rays?, Should they be conditioned with any chemicals? Rotated? etc.)
Click to expand...

Balance tires, hubs, drums as a unit when new tires are installed.

Daily pressure check while traveling.

Rotating them isn't worth it in most cases.

Covering them won't, in practice, extend the safe useful life of the tires.

Discard based on treadwear, age, cracking, punctures, etc. at you discretion.

Don't forget the spare.
 
  I've towed trailers of all types all my life. ST tires have always had quality issues, even before they went overseas.  At one time all tire were bias ply and the ST bias ply tires on our heavier trailers were very problematic. Along came the radial era and tires in general incresed in reliability a bunch. I wouldn't use a bias ply ST or LT or P on any hiway trailer, even a RV. They simply run to hot compared to the radial.

Going to a higher load range make sense/cents if the wheel/tire capacity is marginal in the first place.  Example is a 10-12k trailer that the someone has put on a ST or LT225/75-15 D tire. The trailer would be heavy enough for a load range E at 80 psi.  Sometimes a upgrade in size may make better sense such as using a 225 or 235/75-15 same load range, from a 205/75-15 C (example).

  DOT's only requirement for tires and wheels comes under 571 vehicle safety regs.  It only requires what the manufacture is required to install when it leaves the factory. The dealer or first owner may upgrade the wheels and tires. Thats why many trailer manufactures may offer a upgrade wheel and LT tire package.

  My RV sits in its shed which keeps the sun off the tires. My other flat bed trailers sit it the tractor barn so their tires are protected from the sun.  As most commercial haulers I don't use ST tires. Can't afford the down times changing a ruined tire on the side of the road or looking for a replacement.  I keep all my trailer tires at max sidewall pressure which includes smaller trailers with P tires. If the trailer is hooked and I stop for any reason its just a habit to walk around the rig and look/thump the tires on the truck and trailer.  I use just about all brands of spray on tire car products. No issues even on 8-10 year old tires.

  Cheap tires are just that. Cheap. Move up to a quality  LT tire on a heavier trailer or in many cases a P SL or XL would be a better choise than any brand ST tire on lightweight trailers.
 
 
I know that most new heavier 5th wheel have LT on them. I would look weight your trailer loaded and start from their. Camper world sells a G rated tire which is more that most would take I will stick with the size and weight that came with the unit. Far as brands go you pay for what you get go cheep get lesser quality of a tire. also see how far you travel each year that should be considered  too.
Far as maintenance  goes keep them covered up and air them up before leaving for the trips. Tire that do not have enough air causes the internal temp of the tire to get too hot and start to brake down but proper air inflation will make a tire last longer and stop  most of the uneven tire wear. 8) ;D
  Flat tire really suck so think twice before going cheep.
 
Has anyone had experience with the Firestone Transforce HT in a 16" E rated tires (245-75X16)? My '06 Titanium has, of course, the Marathons, which, luckily for me have given pretty good service over their 5 year life - but they were Canadian made and the new ones -- well, they aren't. I originally was going to use the BFG Commercial TA, but the Firestones have a 1 point Tire Rack better rating so am reconsidering (http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_garage/WishList.jsp?index=user&oEvent=event3)

 
My parents have the Transforce H/T's in 235/85/16 load range E on their 34' Jayco 5er, no problems what so ever.  My father has the same tires on his F350, actually the tires on the camper came off his truck.  The camper needed 5 new tires (including the spare) so he put new tires on the truck and took the take offs (about 50% tread) and put them on the camper.
 
How much load capacity are you willing to give up when DOWN grading to a Light Truck tire? If you?re switching from (lets say) a ST235/80R16E rated at 3420# to a LT235/85R16E rated at 3042# you?re sacrificing a lot of load carrying capability for your convictions, not to mention the complete disregard of established DOT  safety standards. If you?re putting those LT tires on  a 6000# axle that's only 84# above the minimum axle requirement.  Here is a little tidbit of information about that whopping 84# of reserve. A 1 psi loss of tire pressure from 80 psi to 79 psi equals a 1.7% loss of load carrying ability. So if both tires on the axle are at 79 psi the axle is 20# below its capability. 

Bottom line: Get tires with some  measurable reserve that you can depend on. UP is good - DOWN is bad.

FastEagle

p.s. The DOT 2007 final rule change allows the RV trailer manufacturer and his dealers to change wheel and tire selections from those listed on the specs. If it is a brand name change no documentation is required. If it is a size change the certification labels and/or placard must reflect the change(s) prior to first sale.  After that, caveat emptor!
 
Why would you assume that going to an LT is a downgrade in weight capacity? E-rated tires have different carry capacities depending on brand and model. I fully agree that one must carefully consider the actual load rating and not just the "E" designation, but one should not assume an LT is always less than an ST.
 
Fast Eagle - you have, IMO, a credibility problem as evidenced in the RV.net forum. I don't want to hear nor see any of your so-called "expert" opinion in response to my question.

Now - as far as 'giving up' capacity. I very much doubt that the 3420 Marathon is better or has more real world capacity then an E LT at 3042 regardless of the sidewall markings. Then of course, there are the 6000 pound axles :(

Oh and I re-reconsidered and am going with the BFG Commercial T/A
 
Folks, please refrain from the personal stuff, thanks.
 
FastEagle said:
How much load capacity are you willing to give up when DOWN grading to a Light Truck tire? If you?re switching from (lets say) a ST235/80R16E rated at 3420# to a LT235/85R16E rated at 3042# you?re sacrificing a lot of load carrying capability for your convictions, not to mention the complete disregard of established DOT  safety standards. If you?re putting those LT tires on  a 6000# axle that's only 84# above the minimum axle requirement.  Here is a little tidbit of information about that whopping 84# of reserve. A 1 psi loss of tire pressure from 80 psi to 79 psi equals a 1.7% loss of load carrying ability. So if both tires on the axle are at 79 psi the axle is 20# below its capability. 

Bottom line: Get tires with some  measurable reserve that you can depend on. UP is good - DOWN is bad.


FastEagle

p.s. The DOT 2007 final rule change allows the RV trailer manufacturer and his dealers to change wheel and tire selections from those listed on the specs. If it is a brand name change no documentation is required. If it is a size change the certification labels and/or placard must reflect the change(s) prior to first sale.  After that, caveat emptor!
Click to expand...

The problem with your logic is that by using a tire with 3400 capacity then you weak ling becomes the axles.
Personally I have 6K axles under my fiver and have LT tires rated at 3042 and have never had a blow out.  OR axle failure for that matter!
As long as the OP properly matches components I see no problem.
 
RV Roamer said:
Why would you assume that going to an LT is a downgrade in weight capacity? E-rated tires have different carry capacities depending on brand and model. I fully agree that one must carefully consider the actual load rating and not just the "E" designation, but one should not assume an LT is always less than an ST.
Click to expand...

Come on Gary, I didn?t assume anything. I used specific tires sizes with known load capacities. Had I just used the LRE it would have been an assumption.

I did not quote anyone. It was a generic post.

FastEagle
 
I used specific tires sizes with known load capacities.
Click to expand...
You cited a specific size but not a specific tire brand & model. All I was trying to point out is that the actual weight carrying capacity may vary by tire brand and model and that is the number you have to go by.

However, the 3042 lb cited is certainly typical for that size and the Firestone Transforce that was asked about earlier is indeed rated for 3042 lbs.
 
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