Towing a 28’ enclosed trailer.

[reelheavy]

Greetings all!

I am new to the world of RVs, driven tractor trailers for years. I have started a new hobby of drag racing. I was looking at pick up trucks but for the price of a new or used one and my budget, it makes more sense to me to have the luxury of an RV.

So I have been in RV Trader looking and these towing capacity and hitch ratings have me seeking help.

I plan to purchase a Class A motorhome. I prefer diesel. My race car weighs 2600 lbs the trailer is about 4000 lbs and I’d just add another 1000 lbs for the miscellaneous tools and other things in the trailer. So in total 8,000 lbs give or take.

I would need to have a RV with a 10k hitch?

Should I stay away from gasoline?

How’s the Ford V10?

If it says a RV has a 5k hitch rating, is it possible to buy a bigger hitch and is it worth doing that?

All help is appreciated as I try to navigate through this process. I’ve attached some pictures of some of the Motorhomes I’ve been looking at.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Martian]

The only thing I can comment on is the hitch rating. That is determined by the chassis manufacturer and is not an issue of just putting a stronger hitch on. The factors are stopping power, go power and chassis strength. You might change one or maybe even two but not all three. Might be better to look at something rated to pull a little more than you need.

 

[reelheavy]

So if my trailer is less than 10k lbs I should be looking for something with a 15k lb towing compacity?

 

[Ray-IN]

Hold on for this experience. When we were shopping for a DP MH we found a really nice looking Country Coach. The only blemish inside was the marble countertop was chipped and cracked.
The I began asking the salesman questions, and he said the RV dealership owner owned this MH and used it to pull his daughters dragster trailer to races. In addition to the dragster, the trailer hauled several barrels of fuel, all the tools needed to rebuild an engine, spare tires and parts, plus tents, chairs, tables, etc.
The he proceeded to tell us the engine had been rebuilt once, the Allison A/T 3 times. The MH had 89K on the speedo the best I remember. We passed on buying that MH.


Bottom line, unless you're good with such rebuilds, deep pockets will be recommended.

 

[reelheavy]

Coming from owning a trucking company I know how expensive it can get when it comes to repairs, maintenance and rebuilds.i am pretty savvy and can fix some things and tinker with some other things. I’ve bought a few tractors that seemed like they were perfectly fine, but ended needing lots of work and I that’s after doing my due diligence and checking them over pretty well.

I appreciate the advice that’s definitely something I will keep in the forefront of my mind.

 

[woof-n]

A good friend of mine drag races Prostocks. His race trailer and car weight is similar to your setup. He had two gas Class A's before graduating to a diesel pusher. Both of the gasser A's were underpowered but he got by. I believe one was a ford and one was a GMC. The biggest problem he had with the A's was the trailer load ended up bending the camper frame rails. In both cases he had to box the frame rails in order for the camper door to shut. I believe your estimate of 8000Lbs is light. There is also the generator, air compressor, winch, batteries, fuel ,spare parts, etc, etc.. With your knowledge and ability to repair diesels along with the truck frame that comes with it. It would be in your best interest to purchase a diesel pusher. Once my friend spent the money he never regretted the decision to purchase the pusher.

Good Luck with your racing adventure. I raced circle track Hobby Stocks for a couple of years. My first memorable moment was after working all winter building a car. 18 laps into my first race the radiator blew taking me out of the race. Loading the car backup to go home and thought " Dang, racing is full of hard work and disappointment". I still laugh about that revelation. You will end up with stories that will last a life time. Have fun

 

[Laura & Charles]

X2 on the diesel pusher. I don’t think many (any?) gassers are up to what you’re asking for very long. Your hobby is going to keep you and your wrenches plenty busy. Your RV will too even if you’re NOT overtaxing it.
And welcome to the forums! Lots of friendly and knowledgeable folks here!

 

[Onyrlef]

Greetings all!

I am new to the world of RVs, driven tractor trailers for years. I have started a new hobby of drag racing. I was looking at pick up trucks but for the price of a new or used one and my budget, it makes more sense to me to have the luxury of an RV.

So I have been in RV Trader looking and these towing capacity and hitch ratings have me seeking help.

I plan to purchase a Class A motorhome. I prefer diesel. My race car weighs 2600 lbs the trailer is about 4000 lbs and I’d just add another 1000 lbs for the miscellaneous tools and other things in the trailer. So in total 8,000 lbs give or take.

I would need to have a RV with a 10k hitch?

Should I stay away from gasoline?

How’s the Ford V10?

If it says a RV has a 5k hitch rating, is it possible to buy a bigger hitch and is it worth doing that?

All help is appreciated as I try to navigate through this process. I’ve attached some pictures of some of the Motorhomes I’ve been looking at.

Thanks in advance.

The V10 for that kind of weight is out of the question, it's on its overloads towing the 5k.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I would need to have a RV with a 10k hitch?

Should I stay away from gasoline?

To get a chassis with a 10k or more towing capacity, it will almost surely need to be a diesel pusher or diesel super-C. The engine isn't the issue - it's the strength of the chassis & drive train. The long rear extension of a Class A gas chassis isn't designed to handle more than 5K, so upgrading the hitch receiver is rarely practical.

Further, toting a 10k trailer in addition to an 18k-24k motorhome puts you in the weight territory where a lot of low-end torque is a great help in acceleration and hill-climbing. You will like a diesel much more, even if smaller than a big block gas engine.

 

[Onyrlef]

To get a chassis with a 10k or more towing capacity, it will almost surely need to be a diesel pusher or diesel super-C. The engine isn't the issue - it's the strength of the chassis & drive train. The long rear extension of a Class A gas chassis isn't designed to handle more than 5K, so upgrading the hitch receiver is rarely practical.

Further, toting a 10k trailer in addition to an 18k-24k motorhome puts you in the weight territory where a lot of low-end torque is a great help in acceleration and hill-climbing. You will like a diesel much more, even if smaller than a big block gas engine.

The drive train collaborates with the engine, it’s not either/or, and it’s the determining factor in calculating a MH’s towing capacity. The amount of rear overhang is not part of that calculation.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Look at Super C models. Built on 450/4500 or 550/5500 chassis.

 

[Kirk]

The amount of rear overhang is not part of that calculation.

You must not have seen any class A rigs with a case of tail droop. It used to be common and especially so for early Bounders. Gas rigs usually have extensions on the frame rails to build longer coaches and not all manufacturers use the same size and strength rail extensions. That extension adds a leverage factor to the weight applied to the hitch.

 

[Onyrlef]

You must not have seen any class A rigs with a case of tail droop. It used to be common and especially so for early Bounders. Gas rigs usually have extensions on the frame rails to build longer coaches and not all manufacturers use the same size and strength rail extensions. That extension adds a leverage factor to the weight applied to the hitch.

So if I put a V10 w/ 6 spd torque shift transmission in a coach with a tag axle and no frame extension it will now tow 10,000 lbs?

 

[ennored]

Few thoughts:
Ford rated the earlier V10 16K chassis to tow up to 10,000 pounds (26K GCWR) for about 10 years. Don't know if any RV manufacturer actually put a 10K hitch on one though.
The 8k hitches used on some Class Cs and As lately are typically limited in tongue weight to like 350 or 500 pounds, not enough for an 8k trailer.
Ford has built gas F650/750s that are rated for 37,000 pounds combined. So the gas motors can do it, but as has been said, it isn't just about the motor.
Many diesel pushers are limited to 5000 pound trailer towing. Don't assume a DP can tow 10,000 pounds because it's a diesel.
My aluminum 24' enclosed trailer (without cabinets, benches, or shelves) weighs 3800 pounds empty on a certified scale. With my 2600 pound car in it, I'm regularly over 8500 pounds, on proper scales. I think you'll be over that.
Looks like the Islander you posted might have a 10K hitch, it has a 34,400 GVWR and a 44,400 GCWR.
And that Hurricane is one of the 16K F53s with a 26K GCWR. At that length, it might not have any frame extensions. Some work, and a good internet firesuit, and it might work.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

I have a buddy that races spec Miata's. He has a trailer that holds two of them (one stacked over the other) along with tools, tires, etc. Pulls the trailer with a Freightliner chassis Super-C. I'm sure it was a frightening amount of money for the setup but it seems if you're into racing already, you're used to watching money vanish.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The drive train collaborates with the engine, it’s not either/or, and it’s the determining factor in calculating a MH’s towing capacity.

No, it's one of the factors. But as you say, engine horsepower & type is just one piece of the drivetrain and the it's the sum of those parts that determines the tow rating. Then the chassis tow rating (GCWR) may be further limited by the hitch rating. You don't want to exceed either the tow rating (GCWR) or the Hitch rating.

The amount of rear overhang is not part of that calculation.

But is has a LOT to do the rating of the hitch receiver, and the hitch rating is another critical parameter in towing capacity.

 

[Onyrlef]

No, it's one of the factors. But as you say, engine horsepower & type is just one piece of the drivetrain and the it's the sum of those parts that determines the tow rating. Then the chassis tow rating (GCWR) may be further limited by the hitch rating. You don't want to exceed either the tow rating (GCWR) or the Hitch rating.

But is has a LOT to do the rating of the hitch receiver, and the hitch

There’s no such thing as chassis tow rating, the GCWR is the sum of the GVWR and the maximum weight the MH is rated to tow which is determined by the engine and drivetrain ( powertrain). The hitch rating has nothing to do with the tow rating. Nor does rear wheel overhang or frame extensions.

 

[woof-n]

There’s no such thing as chassis tow rating, the GCWR is the sum of the GVWR and the maximum weight the MH is rated to tow which is determined by the engine and drivetrain ( powertrain). The hitch rating has nothing to do with the tow rating. Nor does rear wheel overhang or frame extensions.

Agreed, there is not a chassis tow rating, However, as others have tried to express, the tow rating has to factor in the chassis design, stiffness, springs, shocks, frame extensions, along with role center, center of gravity, power train, brakes, etc. to determine what it can safely tow. The weakest point determines the max towing. Agreed, the hitch rating is solely the hitch rating.

 

[Onyrlef]

Agreed, there is not a chassis tow rating, However, as others have tried to express, the tow rating has to factor in the chassis design, stiffness, springs, shocks, frame extensions, along with role center, center of gravity, power train, brakes, etc. to determine what it can safely tow. The weakest point determines the max towing. Agreed, the hitch rating is solely the hitch rating.

Some parts of the chassis are drivetrain, other variables like aft of axle overhang, frame extensions, center of gravity, shocks, brakes,……are not, regardless how many others think so, factors in determining a MH’s towing capacity.

 

[ennored]

No idea what you guys are talking about. The case of the 16K Ford chassis with the 26k GCWR comes to mind. Ford says, in writing, that a few years of the 16K chassis can tow up to 10,000 pounds*. They rate the chassis for that. When a motorhome manufacturer puts a 5000 rated hitch on it, and rates it to tow 5000 pounds, that's all you can tow.

2007 Ford Towing guide

*Actually says 10,300, but that is probably a typo. Carried over from when there was a 15,700 GVWR chassis.