Two BIG/little problems with luggage doors!

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jymbee

jymbee

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2018
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Location
Upstate NY
All packed and ready to head out-- but...  :(

We have two compartment doors that are preventing us from departing until we can figure out how to do repairs. The first is one of the doors has a broken catch (not sure of the technical term) that grabs when the door is closed. Obviously without that working the door just flops around.

The second is more worrisome as screws that hold the hinge have pulled out of the door frame. Not even sure how to go about repairing that.

Coach is a 2012 Fleetwood Bounder 33C. Called Fleetwood parts and for the first issue they have a part number: 100086444 BUT they don't have any in stock. Perhaps there's a generic equivalent? Still waiting for their tech support to get back to me on the hinge issue as the first parts person I spoke to was stumped.

I took some images showing both issues. The first two are pretty straight-forward and show the first latch. I've seem some videos on line and it looks like a reasonably simple repair IF one had the part.

The last two images show the hinge with the stripped out screws. No idea how to go about fixing that. Any input/advice much appreciated.

http://byz.com/rv/

 
You can be sure that Fleetwood bought an off-the-shelf latch mechanism, but identifying the maker of it and a retail source can be challenging. Sorry, I have no suggestions beyond Google searches using a variety of terms.

Here's one on Amazon that looks similar. I found it searching "baggage door latch". Several other RV parts houses have it as well.
https://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-E525-Fleetwood-Compartment/dp/B009HQ7FX8/
 
Rotate the hinge and remove the screws. Drill 4 new holes in the hinge not the door. Add a thin layer of butyl caulk rotate the hinge and install new self taping screws. You can start the screws with a cordless drill but when it gets close to the hinge, STOP and screw then in by hand being very carefully not to strip the thread. In a couple of days re-torque the screws because the caulk may ooze out a little that?s why I said a thin layer.
 
Both suggestions above is the way to go.

My only suggestion is to drill out the 2 rivets holding the door latch and  remove the latch for better observation. You will most certainly need to do that anyway. I believe the linkage from the latch to the handle should be easily disconnected. Disconnecting may require handle removal.

When remounting the hinge to the door with new screw locations, it is best most of the time to drill a pilot hole into the door material and screw into that. The size of the pilot hole in this case should be small no more than half the diameter of the screw threads. You can also jump up to the next size screw for more strength. The news holes in the hinge should be clearance holes for the screws. Just a little bit bigger than the diameter of the screw threads.
 
I had the "floppy door" issue happen during my last trip.  The only thing I had to keep it closed was duct tape which worked but it took a small section of paint off when I took it off.

As Gary mentions above I ordered replacement latches from Amazon.  I also purchased aluminum latches from "motorhomelatches.com" - you have to call them and they'll mail you the replacement and include an invoice (you don't pay up front).  I installed the aluminum latches - it was real easy after I found a YouTube video explaining the process.  I plan to use the Amazon latches on another door that has 1 broken latch.







 
Not a solution for a fix, but take a bungee cord, attach to something inside, and then the door.  It will keep the door closed while on your travels, not secure, but maybe a start to get you to your holiday destination.
 
I'd say what I did, but between needing pictures under 350kb, the 20 second post rule applying when you haven't posted because it rejected it, and the duplicate post rule applying when you haven't posted because it rejected it, I'm exhausted.  :eek:
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
You can be sure that Fleetwood bought an off-the-shelf latch mechanism, but identifying the maker of it and a retail source can be challenging. Sorry, I have no suggestions beyond Google searches using a variety of terms.

Here's one on Amazon that looks similar. I found it searching "baggage door latch". Several other RV parts houses have it as well.
https://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-E525-Fleetwood-Compartment/dp/B009HQ7FX8/
Click to expand...

Thanks much. It does appears that there are options for this latch.
 
thelazyl said:
I had the "floppy door" issue happen during my last trip.  The only thing I had to keep it closed was duct tape which worked but it took a small section of paint off when I took it off.

As Gary mentions above I ordered replacement latches from Amazon.  I also purchased aluminum latches from "motorhomelatches.com" - you have to call them and they'll mail you the replacement and include an invoice (you don't pay up front).  I installed the aluminum latches - it was real easy after I found a YouTube video explaining the process.  I plan to use the Amazon latches on another door that has 1 broken latch.
Click to expand...

I actually thought of a gaffer's tape method to simply get us from A to B but feared what it might do to the paint when removed.  ;)

I found the part on the site you mentioned and it does look like that might be a good option. Thanks for the input!
 
Utclmjmpr said:
Another suggestion is to NOT SLAM these doors,, only push closed while lifting the latch to close them..>>>Dan
Click to expand...

Don't SLAM the doors?? So, NOW you tell me!  ;D

But seriously, I have to admit I have been guilty of that in the past but will definitely adopt a more gentle approach going forward.
 
I also have replaced all the plastic craaapppp with motorhomelatches metal ones, and not a problem since.>>>Dan ( regardless of what you have regular lubing is necessary.)
 
thelazyl said:
I also purchased aluminum latches from "motorhomelatches.com" - you have to call them and they'll mail you the replacement and include an invoice (you don't pay up front).
Click to expand...

I placed an order with them today for some replacement latches and when I got to the checkout, was a bit confused as there was a Paypal option but didn't seem to anywhere. I remembered you saying they ship then you pay, but I called them to make sure I wasn't missing anything. What a pleasant experience! She assured me that, yes, they would ship the order right out and I could just send them a check. I asked: "What if I was a crook?". She let out loud laugh and said: "We've been in business for 15 years and have never ever had an issue.".

She also pointed out that were I a crook, it's doubtful I would attempt to apply my crookedness to get some free RV latches!

I would highly recommend this site for anyone in need of replacement latches or parts.
 
I actually thought of a gaffer's tape method to simply get us from A to B but feared what it might do to the paint when removed.
Click to expand...
If it is actual gaffer's tape, then it won't cause a problem, but if it's duct (duck) tape or some other substitute then the adhesive doesn't come off clean and could cause a problem. The main reason for gaffer's tape is to support things in the film industry without damage to the surface of what it supports, whether it's taping a mic to a guitar, a display board to some vertical surface, keeping cables in place, or many, many other uses, it (in my experience and from what I've heard) always comes off clean. Love that stuff, though it's a bit more expensive than duct tape, but oh so much better for many things.
 
Just installed 4 this week.  Got them from Amazon and I think they were about $20 for the 4.  The ones I got required a couple light blows with a hammer to get into the opening.  But they all went in and it's only a 10 minute job. 

I had a problem with one bay doors after putting in the new latch.  The long rod that connects the pull latch and the part that keeps it from opening is not held in place with a clip.  At least mine weren't.  If the rod falls out of the pull latch when it's closing, you won't be able to open the bay door.  I was able to access it by opening the adjoining bay door.  Check the mechanism before closing the bay door. 
 
Larry N. said:
If it is actual gaffer's tape, then it won't cause a problem, but if it's duct (duck) tape or some other substitute then the adhesive doesn't come off clean and could cause a problem. The main reason for gaffer's tape is to support things in the film industry without damage to the surface of what it supports, whether it's taping a mic to a guitar, a display board to some vertical surface, keeping cables in place, or many, many other uses, it (in my experience and from what I've heard) always comes off clean. Love that stuff, though it's a bit more expensive than duct tape, but oh so much better for many things.
Click to expand...

Yep, I've been using gaffer's tape for years-- don't leave home without it. Been using it for many applications in our photo/video business and always buy the top brands at places like B&H. However, I've found that gaffer's tape while much better than duct tape can't always be removed with no issues as often claimed. Found that out the hard way.  :)
 
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