Un-hooked CO2 Detector -- Will capped wires still pull current?

[nashvillecamper]

When parked the battery on my TT drains as a result of two things -- clock on the stereo and the CO2 detector (which is always on).  To keep the battery from draining I removed the fuse to the stereo and disconnected the CO2 detector (I removed all fuses and it kept running so just disconnected it).  I will switch to a CO2 detector that runs off of a 9V battery.

I capped off the wires running to the CO2 detector but wondered if it might still pull current even though they aren't connected to anything now.  Does anyone know?  Thx

 

[Mike and Sherrie in VA]

As long as the wires are not touching there should be no current path, so I would say no.

 

[BruceinFL]

Why not just install a battery disconnect switch? Keeps thing a lot simpler.

 

[nashvillecamper]

That's what I was thinking too, Mike but wanted to ask someone else to be sure.  Bruce, I should have mentioned that I want to have the ability to run my fridge between weekends at the campground -- which is why I don't want to use a disconnect.  It needs juice from the battery to run the electronics / circuit board. 

 

[John From Detroit]

I will second, Capped wire = no current at 12 volt (At 12,000 volts might be different but yes, I'm joking, since you don't have that kind of voltage lying about)

I am concerned however about you disabling the CO detector, this is a safety device and heaven forbid you get a build up of CO..

You see. CO is often built up "After dark" (your major CO makers are the generator and the furnace/heat source) and you might well go to sleep... And stay there for all eternity.

The CO detector is supposed to wake you up alive if there is a combustion chamber leaking into your living space.. Mine works very well.. Wakes me up even before headache time (it is a tad paranoid, I like it that way,,,, It also is fully self contained, 3 AA batteries, no connection to rig) (3 NEW (as of last week) batteries I might add)

 

[nashvillecamper]

John, thanks for your reply and your concern.  Not sure if you saw in my original post, but I'm going to buy battery operated one (or one that simply plugs in the wall).  I don't want to take any chances either.

 

[carson]

What's the problem? if one disconnects the CO2 detector totally from power, how can it possibly work?, unless there is a hidden battery inside.

 

 

[John From Detroit]

Carson you have it.. If there is no power it won't work, which is why I was concerned.

The O/P says he intends to buy one like mine.. Self contained battery you replace every year or so

NOTE to O/P.. The one in my rig is a "Special RV type" labeled Attwood.

It is really a very common costs about 25 percent of what Attwood charges Kiddie you can get at most any Home Depot or Lowes

 

[nashvillecamper]

Thanks for the info, John

 

[certech]

Are you talking CO detector or LP detector. On most towables carbon monoxided detectors are run on a 9 volt batterry same as your smoke alarm,however all lp detectors are hard wired in to the coaches 12 volt system, this is a law that all manufacturers comply with. you cant buy a 9 volt lp detector.The lp detector will pulll a 5 amp draw on your batt. and in about 5 days your batt. will be dead. Please do not disconnect this warning device. It could easily be forgotten about while your camping and trageddy can and has happened.Simply remove the neg cable from your battery when not in use,actually this is much easier to do than removing the detector and wire nut the wires. Or like others have said buy a disconnect. they are not that hard to put in and once they are installed just a quick flip of the switch and no juice. This is much quicker than removing the battery box cover and taking a chance on losing the wingnut. Yes you can remove the fuse on post 1995 and even some pre 95  models but dont. No fuse and no lp detector.Some detectors have a solenoid that will shut off gas flow if a leak occurs. These are good things. Sleeping in a coach without proper detection can be fatal if a leak occurs. I work on these things day in and day out and leaks do occur. Your travelling 75 miles an hour the light weight box on wheels is bumping and flexing over hundreds of miles soemtimes s*#t happens.
Have a safe enjoyable camping trip.
The certech.

 

[nashvillecamper]

I didn't realize there was a difference, Certech.  Since you work on RV's let me ask you a question...the main reason I want to disconnect the thing is so I can run my refrigerator between weekends at the campground (so we don't have to unload it once a week).

With that LP / CO detector running along with the fridge, by battery only lasts about three days before going dead.  The thought was if the only thing running is the fridge, the battery should last between weekends.  I tried pulling the fuse on the detector but couldn't find one (I literally pulled all the fuses out and it was still running).  So the question is, how can I turn the thing off between weekends at the campground?  Or is a better solution to buy a portable detector that I can plug into a wall socket?  Thx

 

[John From Detroit]

CO detectors are normally mounted high up,  LP or to be more precise explosive gas detectors near the floor.

And yes, there are differences.. Though they do make combined units

 

[nashvillecamper]

This one must be an LP detector then because it was mounted down low near the floor.

 

[certech]

Ill try to give you the best answer i can while keeping your coach up to the safe standards of which it was designed.Some lp detectors have a fuse mounted at your convertors fuse panel. others have a fuse in line,which is usually behind the convertor some detectors have an overload protection devise built into them. your fuses are not designed to be pulled in and out to shut power off., that is what switches are for.  Fuses are overload protection devices.Your LP detector should not be disconnected to save on amperage capacity.If you need more amperage capacity to keep a refer running for 5 days then disconnecting the lp detector will not do it. I made a mistake when i answered the first time when i stated that the lp  detector draws 5 amps. Actually i meant .5 amps and didnt put the decimal in front of the 5.Your refer control board requires approx. 11.5 amps dc power to operate if you are going to run your refer for 5 days without being plugged into shore power you will discharge your battery to 100%. If you do this enough times you will prematurely exhaust your batteries life.If you will have shore power then you have no worries with running the refer and the lp detector( which this unit will state LP detector right on it and it is located near the floor usually next to furnace or stove). The shore power powers your convertor which then converts 110 ac into 12 volt dc power , 12 volt dc power is what all your appliances except microwave,plugs and air conditioner run on. You asked what i suggest, i suggest this with the information that i have. Install 2 -12 volt batteries preferrably with large amp capacities in parrallel . Some of the smaller 12 volts we call them srm 24s have a reserve capacity of 140 amps the srm 27s have a reserve cap. of 180 amps. By installing 2 batteries in parrellel this will increase your amperage hours to 280 or 360 depending on the size of 12 volt batteries you install and hopefully allow you enough capacity to run on battteries for a week.But there are no garantees , 5 days is a long time.One thing about batteries in parrallel. The more batteries the more capacity,however you need ventilated space to accomodate more batteries. Some of the large capacity 6 volt run in series/ parallel are what the larger motor homes use. For you everything is going to depend on ventilated space. Do not place batteries inside of non ventilated compatments such that are found under the bed. Charging batteries omit harmful gases.
Hope this helps with your amp capacity issue.

 

[carson]

Dear certech,  I enjoyed your article,but... I fell asleep half way through the story.

  I don't know you at all, but please arrange your technical areas of expertise  into several paragraphs.
I am sure you have a lot to tell us; please separate your points into readable form.

  ps: I don't know if I should have written this, we appreciate your knowledge. Any one want to chime in on this?

carson

 

[nashvillecamper]

Certech....I never even thought about mounting a second battery.  There is a second factory battery mounting area right there and ready for me to put a second one in.  One other question --- how do I connect the second battery?  Do I simply run a set of short battery cables from the second battery to the first one (the original one)?  Thanks so much for the detailed response!!

 

[Ned]

Certech, I think you're still having decimal problems. A refrigerator control board will not draw anywhere near 11.5A when running on propane.  It's draw is minimal.  We leave ours run all the time when boondocking and our Link panel shows almost no battery usage overnight when the inverter is turned off.  The only remaining draws are the refrigerator and propane detector plus a few insignificant parasitic loads.

 

[certech]

This is like the 3rd time i lost this reply
Carson your right i dont communicate well in the written form.

Ned, My mistake the operating board needs 11.5 volts at a minimum in order to function  and does not draw 11.5 amps

Hooking up batteries in parallel
look at original battery and find reserve amp capacity should be stamped on battery or a sticker stating the size.  Match  another battery in size if battery states 140 reserve amps then get one that is the same
Once size is determined and you have another matching 12 volt battery start at battery#1. Attach a length of cable from pos terminal to pos terminal of battery #2 then hook up pos lead from trailer to battery #2 pos terminal
From battery #2 attach another length of cable to neg terminal from battery #2 to Battery #1 neg termianl and hook up neg lead from trailer to battery #1
The pos trailer lead should be attached to one battery and the neg trailer lead should be attached to the other batt. The cables should be the same guage as the trailer leads. This is the proper way to hook up a batterry in parralel according to the RVIA/RVDA service tech manual.
If the batteries are located outside then each will need its own battery box securly fastened to trailer frame. Just a note these need to be deep cycle battteries and not the ones in your car.

I joined this forum because i notice alot of disgruntled customers come into the shop because they simply dont know or have tried and done someting wrong and have regrets. I am here to help as much as i can
I have been certified for five years and worked as a tech for 4 before getting nationaly certified with over 25 years in the building trades . I dont know it all and i learn someting new every day what i know i dont mind sharing here with you folks
Good luck with the batteries.
Brad

 

[egdeaile]

There are seveal people who sell a premade set of cables to add that second battery. Should be commercially available so you don't have to make from scratch. I imagine Camping world will have them available.

PS- I've run my camper for at least a week on the LP detector and the fridge on a single battery. Perhaps your first battery is getting old and could use a replacement also?

Good luck!

 

[nashvillecamper]

Thanks egdeaile -- that battery is getting a little old.